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juzplanekrazy

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Everything posted by juzplanekrazy

  1. I would assume the pipe is a perforated drain for the basement wall. The pipe shown is HDPE, soild wall is shown above the ground and could have a coupleing underground to change to perforated. This type of pipe is common to use as a underdrain to carry off water that seeps down along the basement/retaining wall. This type of pipe normally has a shock wrapped around the perf. area or it's wrapped in a Mirifi material with a rock envelope. It's hard to tell by the pictures but that end sticking up could be the "high" end they roped up above ground. I would also assume it drains off to a low point in the back yard or a Sump drain of somekind.
  2. I'm not against doing something to help against termites and a better product in the end. They just do not require these things in our area. But I will look into it for my own benefit.. So in the end here's is what I ended up getting done this weekend. Which was..... the sill, rim and girder beam. Which is split OVER the posts, with Simpson Post Hangers as you can see, with a beam hanger also used against the house. The girder was hug doing 10'-5'-10'. Joist is next. By the way, this is a cool site. I was a little shocked how a few posters jumped in and took it completely off track of what I was asking. Must be and Inspector thing [:-magnify
  3. Yes, It "Was" common to use ACP for storm drain, and more common for domestic and fire water. Also used as a conduit for Tel and Cammunications ducts. It might have been used somewhere for sewer BUT I doubt it, the seweage gass's would have eat it up in no time. ACP pipe was discontinued around 1980 due to the Asbesto in it. Not because of the material in it, because of what it did to the people makeing it.
  4. Thks guy for all the input. Thank you all. Iv'e lived here in So Cal for 57years and crawled under a few homes. All of them dirt. no plastic, no slurry. Cutting the weeds down is a must do, and I wll. A vapor barrier is not a bad idea, even if never required in this area. I will have 18" "Clear" under all members- Joist and Girder. The 2x8 floor joist also get R19 insolation under the subfloor. With a vapor barrier nailed under the joist. Maybe our area way of handleing it.
  5. Thks Jim for the reply. I will be useing a Simpson PC 4x4 to tie the post to the 4"x8" girder. That should do what your talking about I would guess.
  6. Thanks guy for the replys. Maybe the 4x4 threw some of you off of what i was saying. The 4x4 is post material not beam mat. It's just setting there. I want to SPLICE above posts. Yes I have permits. The Arch.... didn't show any splices or show what to do if i did or wanted to. I'm 24'-7" from rim to rim. A special order 4x8 26'L girder beam would be nice, but hard to get and $$$ If I have to Oh well. I can get 12'ers at HD. Also the bolts are @ 4' OC per plan. And the piers are 24x24 x 18" into the ground w/8" above. May just look to be set on dirt but there not. Those things arent moving . And they do not require any type of ground surface work....as in plastic, vapor barrier, slurry etc. They do up north, but not here in RV. Ca. Thks again.
  7. Here's a few pictures of what I'm doing.
  8. I'm adding on 2 bedrooms to our house and I have the footings and piers poured. The building is basic +/-25 x 25 with 4 piers @ mid point. I have a 4x8 girder beam running down the middle with the joist being hug by Simpson joist hangers. My question is, is it Ok to splice the girder in a few place's over the top of the posts? See sketch. I'm in Riverside Ca. Thks for any help. Download Attachment: Scan0001.jpg 204.22 KB
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