wingfoot

I don't think so. How do you know no power was found unless you are using a meter or another tool to check for power? I am not going to the trouble of trouble shooting the problem? Maybe or the bulb, wiring or switch, but that is ok if they believe that because it might be that or who knows what else. I just suggest changing the bulb and checking the light because that is typically what it is. My two cents for what it's worth.

I'm basically on the same page. I list as a defect where each light that didn't operate and simply write have seller replace bulb and check for proper operation prior to closing. I however use a disclaimer about motion control lights that I don't verify these. As far as receptacles I use the high visibilty dots and write the problem on the dot eg; loose or open ground. Then I list the defect in the report, Upstairs rear right bedroom has receptacle with an open ground, marked with colored dot.

Boy, do I feel dumb. assiduously Constant in application or attention; diligent: I need a dictionary to read that or hire an attorney.

Another way to get past the guard is to walk in and even though you don't have cards in the back, tell her that you have some updated cards and want to replace your old cards that are in the back. She'll assume that you've been there before and will wave you on past. It hasn't failed me yet. It will seem like a waste of time due to how many other inspectors cards are stacked up on the shelf but you still need to get them in there since you're new. Some agents especially new ones will grab 3 and give them to their client to choose from and who knows that agent may like you and become a good money maker for you in the future. Good luck, you'll need it with home sales slowing now.

IRC R802.3 Framing Details. Rafters shall be framed to ridge board or to each other with a gusset plate as a tie. Ridge board shall be at least 1-inch nominal thickness and not less in depth than the end cut of the rafter.

Call 1-800-ASK-BOOK or WWW.BuildingTechBooks.com It is 39.95 + shipping. That's about the cheapest I was able to find.

I appreciate the help everyone. By the way I am ordering a Preston's Guide today, I should have ordered one long ago. By the way the unit really cooled well for that age. I took a temperature at the supply of 52 degrees. Case closed.

Thanks Terry. hausdok, go take some deep breaths, hold and slowly release.

Carrier: Age is incorporated into the serial number. Through 1969, the first digit of the serial number indicates the year of manufacture. Example: 3xxxxxx = 1963, 4xxxxxx = 1964, etc. 1970 and later, a letter followed by a number indicates the month and year of manufacture. Example: A1 = January 1971, B1 = February 1971, C4 = March 1974 etc. A = Jan B = Feb C = Mar D = Apr E = May F = Jun G = Jul H = Aug J = Sep K = Oct L = Nov M = Dec I am assuming the unit is likely from the 80's and installed with the furnace in 1988. According to your post from Home Tech if it is indeed from the 80's my serial number should begin with a letter and mine didn't, it begins with a zero. So I still don't know.

Carrier A/C Unit Model- 38ER036300 S/N- 0461363 Anybody got a date on this unit? The furnace was a Carrier 1988 model. This unit looks about the same. Is it a 3 ton or 2.5 ton? I know. I've got to purchase a Preston's Guide. ASHI has for them 80 bucks, anyone found it cheaper than that? Thanks,

Paul, I might be able to send you some percentages from our testing by email that our company has compiled for metro Atlanta. Typically, in your neck of the woods, the readings are higher than we get on the south side. I'll dig around and see what I can find. By the way you can go to epa.gov and follow the radon link and pull up a map of the U.S. and see where it is high.

Scott, If it is the same house keep us posted.

I feel like you mgb I like being finished when I leave. I probably complete 10% at home. If I feel I need to research something or the house is so disgusting that I just want to get out because my skin is crawling, then I'll go home. Another reason I don't like doing them at home it seems to take me twice as long at home with all the distractions there. There has been a time when I have finished at the property and I've been driving home and said "crap" and forgot to put something in the report. I always tell the client the emailed copy they receive that night always supersedes the printed one on site, in case of changes.

That is really bizarre that your boilerplate would say using copper pipe for gas is wrong. It is all over the IRC Ch.24 about using copper tubing in gas applications. Regionally it is not an issue here. Maybe in your area. Page 2 here we come!

A little clarity may be needed from me. It wasn't the use of copper tubing for gas lines that I was concerned with, I see it used all the time here in metro Atlanta. It was seeing the copper inside of the fireplace itself that I had not seen, only black iron and flex pipe. I was unsure if the heat would be factor or not.