Martin Lehman

Click on the link for the installation manual. http://www.heatilator.com/products/fire ... sp?f=MLI80

Norm, would you actually run a continuity test on a patio cover where the bond to it is under the concrete deck? If so how do you go about doing it?

I went over a number of different manu. specs. for heatilator & majestic, two of the most common prefab units out here and here is what I found. Gas Fireplace: Both companies gas fireplaces only recommend and do not require a non-combustible hearth extension. Wood Fireplace: These require a non-combustible hearth extension. Below are non-combustible materials and the required thickness that meets the specs.(min. R value of 1.16) for the fireplaces non-combustible hearth extension. Hearth Extension Insulation Alternatives, R Value = 1.16 Hearth & Home HX3, HX4 - 1/2 inch USG Micore 300 - 1/2 inch USG Durockâ„¢ Cement Board - 2-1/4 inches Cement Mortor - 5-7/8 inches Common Brick - 5-7/8 inches Ceramic Tile - 14-5/8 inches Marble - 16-5/8 in. to 23-3/8 in. These are the materials that can separate combustible material, lets say the wood flooring or wood framed hearth extenstion, from the fireplace hearth. As you can see it would take over 14 inches of ceramic tile applied over a combustible surface to meet the manu specs. - thats a lot of tile! http://www.heatilator.com/products/fireplaces/index.asp http://www.vermontcastings.com/indes.cfm

As far as making a non-combustible hearth extension, what makes it non combustible? If framing it with wood, will placing concrete backer board below the tile surface make it non combustible? Im trying to understand this. Again; frame it with wood and then place plywood subbase with cement backer board and then tile. Is that non-combustible? I found this on the web regarding a pad for a stove, but I figure this is the same as an extension in front of a pre-fab Fp. What say you guys?

How about this tag line: "Serenity NOW!"[] I think you should scrap the house and just use the text. Text looks good

Need help with these(age and tonnage): BDP Evaporator: 518a024cc Model 18006725 Serial Carrier Condenser: 38ckc024340 Model 1003e14328 Serial The condenser is pretty new, while the evap look original with the home. The home looks to have been built early-mid 80's. The unit was not cooling the home very well. The #'s on the evaporator were pretty hard to read so they could be off, but hopefully not too far off. Thanks

Mike, since you don't see most of these brands, where did you get all this knowledge from? The Preston guide?

Thanks Mike [:-thumbu]

Mike, Thank you for the comprehensive overview. I have been confused a bit on how to go about identifying the tonnage and your post really clears it up [:-magnify[:-magnify[:-magnify Thank You! Now how about finding the age in all those jumbled numbers?

When dating the cooling system, is the tonnage located in the serial # (like most Water Heaters) or is it in the model, or mfg #'s?

Ok, finally.[:-crazy] I found out what this stuff is - "So-Lite" - Ridgid, formed plastic that eliminates the need for mortar at the hip/ridge/wall areas of a roof. Thanks for the help everyone

Yeah Mike, It was very stiff. And nailed to the boards benieth. Download Attachment: IMG_2713.JPG 111.6 KB

Thanks for the visual Donald, amazing how a picture can really clear things up for me. The roofer on this new home really took some short cuts. There were numerous problems, but as far as I can see the hack job on these ridges and hips is [:-censore up.

Same here - asphalt comp are the most prevailent. Tile follow and then wood or built up.

Shouldn't the wood be one continuous piece? Or at least covered? The tiles may be nailed under the headlap, or anchored, but I can't tell. However, the exposed nail holes are not being used - and I am unsure if they are supposed to be filled with nails. mgbinspect - what type of roof do see out there?

On this roof I found that there was exposed wood under the hip tiles. What is this all about? Also all of the hip tiles had a plastic type of flashing under them and none of them were nailed in. Should that platic be covered up with mortar? Download Attachment: IMG_2714.jpg 120.94 KB Download Attachment: IMG_2724.jpg 102.11 KB Download Attachment: IMG_2725.jpg 112.54 KB

The bonding wire in pic 4 doesn't look like a No.8 wire - looks too small. What's up with that?

Thanks for the good advice guys. I went ahead and referred it to the manufacturers rep and/ or the manufactures engineer of record.

Manufactured home appears to be two parts. In the crawl space, the two sections appear to be tied together by bolts and placed on piers. The bolts looks like to be loosening, and the middle where the two parts of the home come together is separating a little. Also evident is a crack running right down the center of the ceiling. Through the home. Question: Who do I refer this to? A structual engineer or a manufactured housing foundation/structural contractor. (if that's the right title)

Does anybody own the Code Check DVD series? Is worth the $150? I am a visual learner and I want to learn as much code as I can. Also, I live in CA and we still go by the 1997 UBC. Do the videos cover UBC like the Code Check books do?