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About fyrmnk

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  1. Thanks alot for all the replies. Helped a lot to narrow it down. Kevin
  2. Looking into replacing our 20+ year old HVAC, even though it's going strong. Figure it's time to increase efficiency on my terms before of a failure. Looking for opinions on different brands. Split system, 3.5 Ton with gas furnace. Is there much difference in brands anymore these days? Thanks for any input. Kevin
  3. Put in a tankless and sell the old 40. Still wouldn't trade mine after 6 years it's been in
  4. I can attest to the much faster burn times nowadays. Much of the issue is the shear amount of "stuff" people have and it's all synthetics, which lead to the much higher heat. The other issue we have is the engineered structural components (I-joists, light weight trusses, etc.) that also burn through much faster and bring houses down much quicker. Add in improper modifications to them and it's impressive to see how fast they drop. We keep trying to change tactics to keep up and improve outcomes, but it's always a challenge. If anyone's bored and wants to look into some of the research, look up UL/NIST Modern Fire Behavior studies that were done. Really is impressive the amount of heat. http://www.firerescue1.com/Firefighter- ... -dynamics/
  5. My 40 year old house had one I just tore out during remodel, it was unventilated and had no signs of moisture issues inside. Can't personally think of why it would react any different then any of the other walls. Not sure if that helps, but that's my experience with mine. I'd see them quite frequently when I was inspecting and never gave it a thought, not that that means anything.
  6. The Rheem customer service is phenomenal, at least for the tankless anyway. I would assume it's good for tank also.
  7. Thanks, if I can't sweat or get wrenches in for compression, might spring for these. Haven't been able to find much about failures with them, didn't know if anyone else has. Have heard even less about compression failing.
  8. Thanks, Sharkbite says it can be removed and reused. The manual compression ones can too? Old ones I replaced had the crimp inside it that grips the pipe so had to cut them off before I sweated new ones on. Could have been because they were so old maybe? Thanks again. Aww, got ya. Misread, thought you were saying they could be removed and reused. Might just go that route if I can't sweat them, since the originals lasted 30 years. The nut and ferrule stay, the valve comes off.
  9. Thanks, Sharkbite says it can be removed and reused. The manual compression ones can too? Old ones I replaced had the crimp inside it that grips the pipe so had to cut them off before I sweated new ones on. Could have been because they were so old maybe? Thanks again.
  10. Hi all, installing new kitchen cabinets. I prefer to solder the copper lines, but due to space constrictions not sure I'll be able to. Considering Sharkbite fittings and manual compression fittings and looking for input. Are the manual compression ones similar in durability to Sharkbites? Any known issues with either? I could solder extensions on them while the old base cabinet is out if I have to to be able to solder my valves back on, but don't really want any unneeded new fittings in the lines if I could avoid it. Most Sharkbite reviews I've read were good, just looking for any other input from you folks. Thanks, Kevin
  11. fyrmnk

    CO Detectors

    Of the hundreds of legitimate CO calls I've run over the past 20 years, we've never found CO showing significant level differences in different levels of a home, it acts as Jim said and pretty evenly mixes with the air with just the natural air movement in the home from the HVAC. We always recommend a CO detector outside of sleeping areas regardless of what level it's on. That's so it should alarm and wake them if a problem arises before it makes them sick or dead. Especially important in multi-occupancies where a problem in another unit or a suicide in a garage will eventually migrate to the other units. We still use the Nighthawk with digital readout I mentioned above in our fire stations and many of us in our own homes. Some of the newer ones that have combo natural gas detection have shown some faults more than than the others, but they've been very reliable. The monitors we carry show pretty consistent readings with the ones with digital readout. Of all the calls I've ran where there was a detector, 90+% alarmed prior to anyone becoming ill. For one's reporting any symptoms, our ambulances do a breath check with a COHb detector to check them. If someone's going to be transported, we do send them to a place with a hyperbaric and let them know the highest reading we've obtained.
  12. Thanks, I have the tool, was just concerned with the condition the subfloor would be in if I did have to, but suppose I could just use filler if it came to that.
  13. I installed one about 8 years ago; I swore I'd never go that route again. It turned out really well, but I made a mess. Yeah that was kind of my concern. Have read several posts at other sites where people said go that route as a last resort. Has anyone been on a 1/2" floating? Is it anywhere near as bad as laminate or thinner floatings with the squishy feel or hollow sound?
  14. Thanks for all the input. I've never dealt with glue down, so that was my main concern with this specific one. Kinda figured I'd still notice it was floating even with the thicker 1/2". Several others allow staple down for 3/8" and 1/2" just not this particular one. If I don't find another I like that allows staple down, will probably do this one and glue it. Anyone ever install glue down engineered? Thanks again
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