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John Kogel

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John Kogel last won the day on October 22 2019

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About John Kogel

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    Canada
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    Retired happy HI

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  1. In the early years, it was caulk only, After a while, ☹️ flashing each joint became the standard for obvious reasons. With the flashing there, the caulk is not needed, but caulk and paint might be done to hide gaps.
  2. Nope, also a pine 2x4 or whatever dimension installed flat does not make an adequate support beam, either. The rotten joist will continue to rot, should have been removed, probably. Are we supposed to believe the termites have moved out? What about the moisture that lead to that mess? Was that issue solved?
  3. Right, I skipped over that part about the snow load in your first post. A mansard (barn) roof design might suit your plan better. A properly built dormer has short rafters from double headers up to the ridge to oppose the rafters on the back side. As far as the height restriction goes, there is always a way. You just haven't found it yet. I have seen several times where what looks like a ridge turns out to be a flat strip with a torched on membrane, a gable roof with the top cut off. You need the help of a professional, IMO. It's too big of a project for screwups.
  4. Right, somebody somewhere has designed the best layout. Also it varies with the expected max snow load, better to go up to the next higher level. I took my first plan to the local municipal inspector. He shot it down, told me why, approved it after the changes. Get off on the right foot with that guy, and get advice from an engineer if possible. Usually you use floor joists to tie the long walls to the center beam. Running them parallel, you loose that rigidity where the rafters push out on the walls. I'll have to read the long text again later.
  5. Right, we don't get the frost so much as moisture and white or greenish mold growing on the wood. In worse cases, fungus attacks the wood. Once there, it destroys the wood. It comes from excess moisture in the crawlspace. I normally would recommend ventilation and improvements to drainage. A crawlspace I remember had been remediated with the sealed liner, sump pumps and dehumidifier. $25G spent but it was all too late. The subfloor was rotten all around the outer walls. The remediation was a ripoff. My clients walked. I have also seen those OSB I-beam joists they use now with wood-destroying fungi in them. Too late by then to save the joist. Something to watch for. Your pic shows moisture unable to escape, condensing on the cold surface. One thing we do here is install an electric baseboard heater in the crawlspace with a thermostat to keep the space warm enough to evaporate the moisture. Yes, it costs money to keep rot out of that OSB.
  6. No appliance was running, such as a dishwasher? No rainwater downspout nearby? Yes, I would include that in the report. Could be a leak, or an underground stream. I got sprayed while under a mobile home one day when a DW went into the rinse cycle. 😬
  7. Read all three pages of this thread and you will know more than you do right now. Howard Pike, Chimo (Cheemo?) Heating services, Coquitlam , BC, hasn't been checking in lately. Good bet you are SOL for a new heat exchanger for a 1975 Airco, but check the date code from Howard's info. The newer owner of the company was Olsen, an they probably stopped stocking parts for the older models. I don't know this, just a guess. Rust on the outer surface doesn't mean the heat exchanger is leaking. Was there an actual gas leak, or flames escaping?
  8. I like it, but have a hard time hanging it straight. 😃
  9. Check with the local authority as to whether this work you are doing requires an electrical inspection. There is more to it if that is the case. If you need to bring the wiring up to the modern code requirements, then outlets either side of the sink need GFCI protection. Also it is a safety improvement. The best way to do this is to convert the 15 amp split duplex outlets to single 20 amp GFCI outlets. Yes, new wiring needs to be installed in the walls from the panel, but it frees up space in the panel. Also the new rules in your area may allow adjacent outlets on the same breaker - then one single 20 amp breaker supplies both outlets and a couple of the others.
  10. Try to contact: Howard Pike Location: Coquitlam, BC Canada Bio: Chimo Furnace owner since 1988 Airco /Olsen Product Engineer 1979 to 1988 BCIT Grad (Mech Tech) in 1979 CSB Ministries Rep since 2001 Company Information: Chimo Fur... You can search here for posts by Howard, but it has been several years now since he was active on this forum.
  11. Are there any multi-inspector companies near you? Try to get hired as a new recruit, good way to get started.
  12. Any chance that roof becomes a hockey rink in the winter? 😬
  13. Hello John. Maybe you need less gas pressure with more air to get the yellow flame.
  14. Thanks, Marc, but I understood there are 3 elements. It's not clear what the rating of each is. I'd be concerned if the total load is increased by 6 amps. Also that age of house means a possibility of Al wiring, so an electrician should have a look.
  15. Bigger elements means a bigger draw on the electrical feeder from your main panel. Instead of worrying about the old elements that still work, have an electrician check the wiring in your house, including that feeder to the tank. If you have to replace you could go down to two elements and reduce the draw on your system. It will still heat the water, just a little slower.
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