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John Kogel

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John Kogel last won the day on November 6 2018

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About John Kogel

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    Canada
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    Retired happy HI

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  1. Thanks, Marc, but I understood there are 3 elements. It's not clear what the rating of each is. I'd be concerned if the total load is increased by 6 amps. Also that age of house means a possibility of Al wiring, so an electrician should have a look.
  2. Bigger elements means a bigger draw on the electrical feeder from your main panel. Instead of worrying about the old elements that still work, have an electrician check the wiring in your house, including that feeder to the tank. If you have to replace you could go down to two elements and reduce the draw on your system. It will still heat the water, just a little slower.
  3. Maybe Howard is still around. Go back to page 1, read what he says and try his contact info. $500 for a blower that fits versus $200 for one that probably doesn't fit and if made to fit, will leak or won't do the job. Just pay the money and get the right one. I know money is tight for most home owners but there are some places where cutting corners doesn't pay. I think 1082 is a 1982 unit, so it's had a good run and is still worth a repair.
  4. Right, format C : and get out the floppy discs.😃
  5. Thanks, Bill. So Jim, an old report of yours will be used to sue another inspector for his more recent inspection? I don't know where I'd stand in that situation. There's the passage of time and all kinds of unknowns, And on the other hand, time would not alter some defects, other than making them more obvious and worse. I don't need to tell you there's ethical questions here, too. You could claim client confidentiality and back away. Or as Bill suggests, enter into the fray as an expert witness, but with one difference, as a previous inspector of that same residence. Still some days left to mull it over. Cheers. Footnote, more Free Legal advice: If you don't have a go-to legal beagle, get one, pay him to check over contracts, etc., now he knows you and can be asked to write letters for you.
  6. Best to not talk to the client. He has chosen this route, so he is no longer on your side of the fence. He can talk to your lawyer and if you don't have one, get one to write a letter on his company letterhead. But have you offered a return of the inspection fee? That is one way to back away without any admission of guilt. In fact, include that with your offer, "This is not an admission of any wrongdoing, error or omission in the inspection and/or in the report". Just good business practice to snuff this in the bud. At the hearing, if there is one, offer to return the inspection fee once more, as offered in the contract if it is. This will be looked on favorably by the judge if it gets to that. You are meeting all terms of the contract as it applies to you. If the client accepts the fee, he first signs a release form, notarized or witnessed, that clears you and your company of any further legal action. At the hearing if client has a lawyer with him, he'll bluster and turn down the offer again, which he'd now be splitting with the lawyer anyways. Then no more Mr. Niceguy at that point and no more offers of cash back. Choose character witnesses and/or expert witnesses. But you want a fast moving defense because no judge wants to see this drag on for hours or days. Show that you met the terms of the contract with the report and pictures as proof. Keep the judge on your side, the side of the qualified professional, wrongfully accused. Wear a suit, stand and refer to him/her as 'Your Honor', and ask permission to speak, none of this jumping up and blurting objections that you see on TV. Good luck, Jim.
  7. Right, they can talk to your lawyer, not to you directly. Give them no ammo, and collect as much paper and pictures on your side as possible. They have your report, and that is all you were required to hand to your client. Even if subpoenaed, let the lawyers do the talking. The contract that your client signed before the inspection is your most important document. Keep the original. If this goes to a hearing, then you may be exchanging paperwork. Stick to your guns, you did your job to the best of your ability. Client agreed to the terms. Good luck.
  8. I don't know if sitting on top of the cylinder head is considered risky, but so far, nothing bad has happened. Thanks for posting the pics. It predates the M E News, IMO.
  9. Hello Darren. Those look like older shingles but heavy duty, probably fiberglass reinforced? I wouldn't have much to say about that moss and lichen, as it is common here. Sometimes people get moss removed and end up with damaged shingles from scrapers and power washers. Detergent or Sodium Bicarb (PSB ?) washing soda will kill that moss, but makes the roof slippery. A zinc strip sometimes works. Are you getting negative feedback about your report?
  10. You seem to be asking - Is charred wood acceptable? and the answer is - it depends on the extent of the damage. Have a builder or a home inspector take a look and get an opinion. For something in writing, you may need a structural engineer's report. You can also consult the local authority where you apply for the permit. .Sometimes if you ask the authority what he thinks you should do, you get the answer you need to get a final approval. That approval adds value when you go to sell.
  11. Foreign buyers leave it up to their realtor on this side to take care of the inspection, and sometimes they don't even come to see the house. Even so, the best advice is to refuse to inspect until the contract is read and signed by the buyer. It is even more important to get that signature when you don't meet the buyers face-to-face.
  12. It does make a bit of sense, but I think the correct way to install those doors is directly on the slab. You step over the bottom runner only. It is metal or vinyl-coated metal and has a flange. Better not have wood there because the door frame will have condensation under it. There is a rubber gasket material with glue on one side that can be laid on the concrete and down the weather side to keep the edge dry. Then the wood sills if any are only under the pillar sections between the sliding doors. They can be attached with heavy duty glue and nails. To install the sill plate, I use a masonry bit to drill thru the plate into the concrete. Then drill as deep as possible until you hit a hard rock. Cut the nail shorter to fit the depth of the drilled hole and use construction glue, very strong. Re; the slope, it looks like the ground is humped up a bit on the right, maybe the picture is distorted. If your gutter looks straight to you now you might just leave the slope. The key will be to have all horizontal lines looking straight when you're done. If the slab drops more than in inch or so, you could pour a small curb on top of the slab to support a straight wall. In that case you will also need to jack up the corner of the roof to get everything level. Not hard, just another day.
  13. That one is a keeper. Mind if I keep it?😎
  14. This will give you a chance to rewire that ceiling light too.😁 Does that space get hot in the summer? Looks like there is some shade, and is the ceiling insulated? just curious. Our patio area has an open metal roof, gets uncomfortably hot for 2 months a year.
  15. The vinyl expands and contracts with temp changes. It works fine cut short with a loose fit in the tracks in a soffit area, but long lengths will buckle in the heat, even worse if you tack it up with fasteners. Metal is more rigid, so long lengths might be ok if you allow for expansion.
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