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John Kogel

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John Kogel last won the day on June 25

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About John Kogel

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    Canada
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    Retired happy HI

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  1. I have the old version of HIP and used Palmtech when I did some subcontract inspecting. The HI Pro version I have allows me to create a pdf file on my own computer. If you go this route, backups onto an external drive or somewhere other than the laptop, easy to do, or use the Cloud storage they offer. Support is excellent. You can easily create templates for the various types of inspections you do and can access templates written by other inspectors, but I prefer my own capitalization and grammar. PalmTech required me to log into their website in the cloud, all very well until y
  2. It all starts with dirt. Dust in the air mixed with moisture from poor air flow, and then not wiping away the algae that grows on the dirt. If those surfaces were clean, there'd be nothing there. Renters tend to blame their landlord for this type of thing, but it is often due to poor house-keeping and turning the heat down too much, allowing moisture to condense on the walls.
  3. All those extra bits are just dead weight, IMO. Beware of the Asian bit sizes that don't quite fit right, like the Phillips that has too sharp a point. Jim's driver never needs charging. I think a magnetic cup in the handle would be handy for holding the screws until you need them again.
  4. They put enough rebar in that wall to span the dip, I'd say. Grout is a good way to seal the gap. If it was my place I'd shove mortar in as tight as possible.
  5. Maybe having a charge on the conduit would discourage the rats. I'm with Barry, piles of turds on top of the panel box, no doubt. I can smell that place from here. 🤓
  6. I had about 20 feet of newer terra cotta tiles on a previous property that were completely plugged with clay. It takes years to accomplish that, but clay sure stopped the flow. If Bill is correct and when is he not? those tiles have historical significance. Hire some history students to dig it all up. It sounds like you could install a curtain drain, a deeper ditch that diverts all the groundwater across the upper slope side of your property. The ditch can have perforated pipe laid in it with drain rock or washed gravel. In sandy soil, wrap the pipe with filter cloth to keep silt out
  7. I have seen similar where a masonry flue liner would seem to be supporting the upper section while the lower section settled. In one case where I knew the owner, we filled the gap with fresh mortar and made sure the liner was intact and tight. Nothing bad happened that time, but the crack was more of a fine line. For yours, it looks like a repair job for an experienced professional mason. That would be caused by settlement of the chimney pad, or expansion of the steel liner possibly, not storm related, IMO.
  8. I would stretch the 20 ft dimension to 22, because that can be subdivided into 2 10'6" rooms, have done that myself. 22' X 22' is similar size but more usable, and the spans allow 14' joists with a central wall or beam. My rental suite is 22' X 22' with a gable roof. A 2' overhang at either gable ends gives it a rectangular roof, looks good. Bedroom is 10' 6" X 13', that foot makes a difference. For a studio, you can have a narrow booth but anything under 10 ' wide feels cramped. I poured the footing and foundation wall in one pour, cheaper than buying blocks and no tedious leveling
  9. Right, there needs to be an air vent, usually in a closet. I built an addition to my 1984 house in 2016 and had to install both those things in the new part for final approval, no big deal, actually. Fresh air in the closet with a vent you can screw shut any time.
  10. Believe it or not, the BC building Code requires the bath fan to run continuously in new construction. I think it has to do with off-gassing. Houses are built tight and locked up all the time. It is pretty standard practice to bypass the fan switch until after the code inspector has done his final inspection. 🤓 Sometimes the electrician or builder doesn't get back to installing the switch and the fan is found to be going strong a year or two later.
  11. Right, the roofer should be stepping up to fix it. Every rafter cavity must have a vent, and that vent must keep water out. If the lower roof edges already have gutters, then gutters with downspouts on the upper roof sections are one good way to prevent splashing.
  12. Here before mid-60's, it was common to add just one clay liner at the top for looks. In an older house, if you don't shine a light in there or take a pic with a flash, there is no guarantee of a lined chimney. I will call out any unlined chimney for repair. New rules demand full scaffolding and fall protection for a mason before he can even repoint the outside. Old chimneys are a liability because there is no cheap fix and fire insurance keeps going up. Cheapest and best is a conversion to NG with a metal liner.
  13. Right, you pretty well need a laptop for report writing and picture display and they come preloaded with Win10.
  14. See if you can find a Jaws ladder. I think Werner ladders use the Jaws ststem of tapered joints with locknuts. They are lighter and have stronger knuckle joints than the LG's, so the ladder is stiff when set up. I like removing the upper end of my 24 footer, slides off, so that it has 3 six foot sections and that removes 1/4 of the weight.
  15. A typical TPRV drain here is the white plastic type, plain old PVC. On a tank heater, the drain squirts into a pan under the tank. Then the pan should have a drain pipe to the exterior or to a perimeter drain. 3/4" PEX would be undersized in comparison to the ready-made thin-wall PVC, I think. Y'all know this but when lurkers come here to learn, they learn good.😄
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