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Marc last won the day on November 6

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About Marc

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  1. The thing about copying and pasting is that the formats are different. Formats don't carry, just the text. The copy/pasted cover page gets mess up. I've since found that my Docusign allows me to join documents and then sign them. I'm going to try that out for awhile. Thanks.
  2. Support for my Adobe Acrobat XI has ended and with that it will not allow me to sign my PDF reports anymore. The only upgrade is a $178 subscription. Does anyone know how to join Word files together. Word allows me to sign documents but I need to join the cover page to the rest of the report first. Anyone?
  3. I see several white wires in that junction box so maybe there's a wire bringing in a neutral for use by other circuits. Again, it's wrong. Neutral are supposed to individually originate in the panel. Conductors of a given circuit are supposed to stay together. Another possibility is that the four hots are feeding two 240-volt circuits but I doubt it. A few other things: Blue isn't supposed to be used for EGCs and orange is for the 'high leg' (208 volt) of an unbalanced 3-phase 120/208 supply. I'd be punting the entire installation over to an electrician:
  4. I agree with Jim but there seems to be more to it than that: There seems to be a rather large neutral conductor, EGC, or GEC from the neutral bus that leaves the panel via a conduit on the left wall of the panel. That neutral conductor looks a lot larger than the 2 white wires that extend the neutral SEC to the neutral bus. Them 2 white wires might well be undersized depending on where that large neutral conductor is going (ground rod, water main?). Also, where's the neutral wires for the four circuits feeding off of that panel? The four circuits coming in at the upper right don't have any neutrals.
  5. A mentor would get you where you're going more quickly, but finding someone that will allow you to shadow him might be difficult.
  6. Receptacle taps

    I think as voltage drops, current increases to produce the same power output. That excessive current leads to hot spots and fires.
  7. Receptacle taps

    Found out that these receptacles were back-stabbed throughout the house, the receptacle strings are 15 amps instead of 20, and that the strings nearest the main panel had noticeably less voltage drop that the ones further away, making the choice of 15 amp or 20 amp circuits a factor in excess voltage drops. The consideration being fire hazards from too much heat developing inside the receptacle boxes, today I replaced the back-stabbed connections with taps on two bedroom circuits. Out of curiosity, I used wing nuts instead of Alumicons and twisted the conductors tightly about 1/2 to 3/4 inch long before torquing the wing nuts as tightly as I could. The string with the worst voltage drops saw drops reduced from 16 (previously 18) to 11%. In yesterday's local news was a report about a home that caught fire, causing major damage. Family was away at the time. Fire Marshall visited that night and reported that an electric space heater and massage chair were plugged into an outlet situated behind a living room sofa. He seemed to suspect that the fire started there. Excessive voltage drops in receptacle boxes do start fires, but there's more factors involved than I thought.
  8. Receptacle taps

    No. No aluminum here. Just bad connections in the receptacle strings. They add up as you progress downstream. I figure if Alumicons can fix aluminum connections then they might well fix other poor connection issues as well. By using taps instead of pass-thru, only the Alumicons interrupt the circuits and they are supposed to be very good connections.
  9. Receptacle taps

    Thanks Guys. Feels good to get that straightened out. I'm replacing back-stabs with screw connections, feed-thru with taps and replacing wire nuts with Alumicons on the 4 receps within a small bedroom to see if this combination will work before I do the rest of the house (general purpose wall receptacles only). This 18 yr old house has voltage drops as high as 18% that sometime dropped to just under 100 volts under 15 amp load. That's about 300 watts of power lost, mostly within recep boxes. Two sparkies accepted the job (one is sole Alumicon specialist in my area) then dropped out before they started, so I'm doing it. I know about the COI here but it's a fire hazard and these clients and I have tried for over 2 months to get someone else to do it.
  10. Receptacle taps

    I'm looking for an allowance to use 14 gauge taps (about 8 inches long) on a 20 amp multi-receptacle circuit, to tie-in the individual 15 amp receptacles. I've heard of it before but I'd like to confirm it. I've an upcoming job involving a complete rewire of all general-purpose receptacle boxes on a house. I'd much rather use 14 gauge to ease the installation. I can't find a clear allowance for it in the NEC. All I can find is 210.19 (A) (4), which is freaking ambiguous. Anyone?
  11. Vinyl on a Gambrel Roof??

    I'd like to visit on a rainy day and see just how much water is coming out at the starter strip.
  12. Hidden Home

    A stick-built attic atop an engineered HUD-Code home. How'd you write that one up?
  13. Do you report it

    I don't report it. I don't see how it's a problem.
  14. Old hot water tank????

    The electrical service typically found in a house does not have sufficient capacity to supply all hot water needs 'on demand' (no tank). As an FHA Fee inspector, I once wrote up a newly constructed home with an electric whole house tank-less heater, saying exactly what I just said (I did a few tests to prove it). Agent got visibly pissed, red faced and all, and ordered me out of the house. Never saw him again, and I'm thankful for that. 199,000 btu/hr translates into 243 amps at 240 volts.