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Everything posted by Marc

  1. Now I gotta have one, an Arlo Wireless!
  2. That is precisely what I want in my backyard. Thinking a steel moment frame might be a good idea, with storefront glass.
  3. Since it has no ducts, I'd expect more than 18 degrees differential, unless the condensation flow rate was high.
  4. I've got this water heater installed in a sheet metal lean-to on the side of today's house. The gas appliance connector starts just inside the crawl, exits the crawl in plain view, then goes through an opening into the lean-to. Everything on this new heater install looks DIY. Is this appliance connector ok?
  5. The folks with the highest risk are the ones who don't know houses well, can't read them well and can't write well. That goes for about 80%, 95% of the home inspectors in this country. Just my low-down, rotten, humble opinion.
  6. It's sometimes a defect in the refrigerator but it's sometimes a compatibility issue between the particular refrigerator and the AFCI device. Refrigerators have compressor-start circuits that need to be considered when an AFCI is engineered, because motor-start circuits normally generate sparks. Refrigerators are made from parts obtained from the global market. I doubt LG is alone in sharing this incompatibility with certain AFCI's. What Jim said. Provide a circuit for the refrigerator that doesn't have the AFCI protection, just regular breaker and GFCI protection. Bear in mind, you'll be going rogue code-wise if you do this. There may be consequences. On the other hand, I've never had an AFCI protected refrigerator before.
  7. No, they're deaf...like me. Just poke at them, anything to irritate them.
  8. Get a mercury or thermocouple thermometer and check it. That huge delta T might be a result of sampling the evaporator coil temperature. What Jim and Bill said.
  9. I've never seen a delta T that high...on any sort of AC system.
  10. One of these days, I'm going to combine a stand-behind dozer, like the Sutter 300, with a tilt blade equipped with laser sensors tied to hydraulics, and a laser transit capable of slopes and offer residential landscaping services like you're doing.
  11. Not too hot for the TV in the heating season?
  12. Perhaps they had to replace an original 5 ton system and thought at one time that they could get the equivalent of a two-speed AC by paralleling two smaller systems. This would work AFAIK. If they were smart, the 2 air flows are in parallel because they were each engineered for that sort of delta temp. If they're in series, I'd write them.
  13. Looks like each set has its own expansion bulbs so I'm guessing two coils. The vapor lines look small. Do you know what tonnage was each outdoor section?
  14. I've seen this only once and it was field modified, not factory. Are you sure there's only one evaporator coil?
  15. That would be ideal if you bought an R410A under 24 lbs. A 30lb weighs 6 lbs empty, 36 lbs when new.
  16. I would not run this system anymore until its fixed. When refrigerant is low, oil circulation, which prevents the compressor from overheating and failure, suffers.
  17. The photo, when the unit isn't running, indicates 150 psi which, for 410A corresponds to a saturation temperature of 52 degrees (look at the R410A temperature saturation scale, the outer blue one). If I assume that both indoor and outdoor temps are at 72 degrees, this means there is no longer any liquid refrigerant left in the system. When there is at least some liquid and some vapor in the system, no matter how little or how much, pressure will be at saturation. So your system is all vapor, unless its 52 degrees outside. That would mean it has lost most of its refrigerant, I'd guess about 90% at least. That's a really fast leak and, in my book, a good sign because it'll make it easier to find.
  18. Refrigerant can be re-used in the same system as long as the compressor hasn't burned out. You'd need a recovery tank to remove the original charge. Like Chad said, the virgin tanks have a check valve in the neck, can't put the toothpaste back in the tube. I've never charged an AC system by weight before, except for my truck's AC, but you could charge your mini-split that way. You'd need a scale on par with the weight of your tank. A bathroom scale would be too crude. I used a mechanical scale for my truck: a 10' long 2X10 with a pivot in the middle, the recovery tank sitting on one end and a dead weight with one can of Hunt's Steam-Peeled Tomatoes, whose weight matched the stated refrigerant charge for my AC, on the other. When perfectly balanced, remove the tomatoes and charge until the scale balances out again. Distance from tomatoes to pivot has to equal distance from tank to pivot. It's very precise...and fun.
  19. Try it on some scrap pieces of copper. Oxy/Acytl is all I've ever used for brazing with silver solder.
  20. I use 115 to 120 for vapor line, checked when indoor ambient is at target temperature. Liquid line depends on outdoor temps. What kind of torch do you have for brazing?
  21. I think the story on those 2 coiled tubings and the bubble thingy are a capillary tube in parallel with a check valve. The check valve opens in cool mode so that the capillary tube in the outdoor section is bypassed, allowing the capillary tube, or expansion valve, in the indoor section instead, to drop the pressure and start the liquid evaporating. In heat mode, the check valve closes, forcing the returning liquid to go through the capillary coil in the outdoor section, causing the returning liquid to evaporate in the outdoor coil so it can collect heat. The indoor capillary tube likely has its own check valve that opens in heat mode. Perhaps there's a problem with the check valve (bubble thingy) not opening as much as it should, making it an...ahem...obstruction of sorts. Obviously, I haven't been of any help.
  22. Looks like a classic case of low refrigerant charge. This assumes that the air filter and evap coil are both clean, since the unit is new, that the evap fan is working and that air is moving through the evap coil and finally, that the indoor temps are 70 or higher. The frost begins at the evap coil, becoming ice that eventually completely encapsulates the coil, stopping all air flow. Thereafter, frost makes it way up the vapor line all the way to the outdoor section. There's a chance that there is no refrigerant leak, that it's been making ice since the installation but the off cycles have been long enough to melt the ice...until now.
  23. Ok. Another question: does the frosting in cool mode go all the way back to the indoor section? Or does it begin and end within the outdoor section?
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