hausdok

It will leak for sure. Water will pass through that cast stone in about five to ten minutes and drain down the backside of the cast stone. Where's it going to go except back up behind the stone and drain into the house? Cast stone has to be installed like stucco with a pretty good gap along the bottom so that moisture can get out. It should be torn out and done again. There need to be step flashings incorporated into the roof and then the cast stone veneer has to be able to drain onto the roof. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Hell, They're barely held in the wall. The nailing fins have been slit away. I'm betting there were 50-60's era aluminum windows cut away; and, instead of cutting back the siding and modifying the surrounds around the window so that the new windows could be secured to the rough framing, those just abut directly against the interior trim and are secured through the edges into the siding and caulked in place. No continuity of flashing behind the siding around those windows. If water gets into the wall it will just drain straight through to the inside. Slope or not, it won't make much difference what with the deep overhang; you're a northwesterner, Brandon, you know that. It's a low band of brick stuck on the front of that house for looks. That top ledge has probably never seen rain, which is the only way they can get away with this installation; the overhang has allowed the remuddler's mistake to go uncaught till now. Good catch, Randy! ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Hi, I think you and I are referring to two different devices; you about the device attached to the rim of the smoke pipe damper and me to the box on the cowling as described above. The device attached to the rim of the damper is an interconnect safety switch; if the flue becomes clogged and hot gas starts backing up out of that damper it will shut the furnace down. The box on the cowl looks, at least to me, like it's a stack safety relay. It senses temps at the top of the unit and has a probe about 1/2 inch wide by a 6-inches long that extends into the top of the unit to sense temps. There's a little temperature setting dial at the top center. They're usually installed by drilling a hole in the cowling and then screwing them into the cowling with some kind of asbestos mastic/goop. Could be wrong. I'm not and never have been an HVAC tech. I have seen about a half a dozen of these converted though and they all seemed to have been done the same way. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Good one Bill, That's hilarious. Gee, if only my butt looked that good. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

I'd bet that it's an upper temperature sensing unit that will shut that thing down when it reaches its set point The original wood/coal/klinker burner wouldn't have had one. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Look at the bottom center of the page where it says "New Survey." Click on that and drive on Kurtinator! No polls about Britney Spears or thongs versus briefs allowed, though. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Well, Ask and ye shall receive. The Kurtinator being a moderator now has the ability to create and edit polls. Oh great One, if you want to edit those polls be my guest but don't delete any of the existing possible responses or change the existing possible responses so much that they mean something entirely different. I've set it up so that each poll has 12 choices. I don't think you'd need more than that. John, Brandon, Frank, Mike says he couldn't find anything wrong with the code and doesn't understand why that's happening. He did tweak something just a bit in the code as an experiment to see if it does the trick but there's now way that he can check it; you'll have to do that. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

This question/poll is for Washington State Home Inspectors ONLY -Are you keeping your pest license now that it's no longer required under state law?

Huh, Yeah, i've seen those but most of the electric ones that I see have the temps. I'll venture a guess that "hot" is about 120°F and that "A" is about 125°F. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Hi, I don't know why you're experiencing those issues. Obviously, it's not happening for those of us who've been able to post answers. I've set these polls so that everyone; members of TIJ as well as non-members, can post responses. When you see the question, there should be a list of choices below it. You make a choice and then submit it and then the poll will display and show you the poll results to that point. Once you've responded to a poll, you can come back to it later on and it will show the results on a bar graph but won't let you vote again. Have you guys tried refreshing your browsers? ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Thanks Steven, I've just added some more choices (Last night I couldn't figure out how to do it but after a night's sleep, well.). I don't think you'll be able to change your choice though. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Hi Joe, Thanks, I've added your suggestion. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Ahem, "Only choose the method that you utilize the most often. OT - OF!!! M.

Jeez, I'd meant to say infrared and put laser instead. Guess I was more tired than I thought. Thanks Richard; it's fixed. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Hi Joe, I guess you're referring to gas or oil-fired water heaters versus electric water heaters with the temps on the stat settings. I'm pretty sure that the setting marked by a triangle on gas hot water heater control valve dials is generally around 120°F and the long bar setting that comes next is about 125°F and each bar after that increases temps by approximately 5°F. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Jeez, yous guys! What do you expect; that at nearly 1:00 am I'm going to be functioning like a Swiss watch? Uh uh, more like a Yugo with a flat tire and sugar in the gas tank. I fixed it. Picky, picky, picky. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Thanks, additional choices added.

Hi Richard, Just trying to do a little research is all. Brandon, if you want a poll, send me an email with the topic and the questions. Only moderators and administrators can post polls here. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Since the question has been answered and we seem to be drifting off-topic, I'm going to split this topic and sending this thread over to the Organization topic area. Once you get there, keep it friendly boys. Richard likes folks to play nice. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Also, Most of the utility providers have published their own set of instructions so that document might not work for everyone. Everyone should go to their local providers' websites', find the provider' manuals and rules and download them. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

How many of you do pest inspections in addition to home inspections? If you do, do you have a license?

How many of you actually use a clamp-on device to check the current being drawn by individual heating elements in central forced-hot-air furnaces or on heating strips?

How many of you actually check to see how much temperature rise there is in a furnace during an inspection?

When you inspect a water heater, do you check the temperature setting on the unit and/or confirm temps at faucets with a thermometer?

When you inspect forced-hot-air gas furnaces, what do you do/look for?