Bryan

Thank you this should help. Bryan

Does anyone happen to have Masonite siding installation instructions from around 1993? I am working on a rehab project where Masonite side was used and is still in fairly good condition; however, I need to check some of the installation details. Bryan

4 inch ceramic over 1970 drywall. Most of the grout in the units was shot. The attached photo is still an active shower, the tenants just did not feel like reporting the problem. I am just trying to back up a replacement reserve for complete surround replacement. Click to Enlarge 13.96 KB Bryan

Rob, You are very correct. This is for a property condition assessment I am completing with a replacement reserve. As part of that I have to input the estimated life of various components. I have a Physical needs Assessment packet I utilize for most items; however, it does not cover tile surrounds. As you mentioned tile, if properly maintained can go 60 plus years; however, in a multi family setting if it makes it 20-25 years you are lucky. Thanks Bryan

Can anyone point me to a source for the estimated useful life of a tile tub surround in a multi family environment. Bryan

I know I read what you posted and have looked at his web site and know his passion about building envelopes. It just appears to be backward to me. Bryan

I think the real challenge is keeping the flashing properly shingled into and behind the WRB when utilizing foam board. Yes the easiest way would be to do a layer of house wrap on the exterior; however, it is additional cost and we all know that will not happen. I also found this detail on BSC web site. It shows utilizing "tape" to seal the flashing to the foam board. In my opinion this still creates a reverse shingle flashing application that will fail over time. Bryan Download Attachment: WindowFlashingdetail.doc 83.38 KB

That is where I am having the challenge. How does one install flashing for a window, door, or other penetration in a shingle fashion when the sheathing is your WRB? The only way I can see it being done is to cut through the foam board and install a "Z" type flashing to cap off the flashing detail. Currently around here builders are relying on self adhering flashing tapes to do the job; however, my personal opinion is the tape will fail much sooner than later especially on the horizontal details. Bryan

Exterior is full brick with lap siding above. If you look at the photo I posted above you can see the back side of the masonry. That along is what got me thinking about this. Bryan

I'm surprised that they are using sheathing on all of the walls. In this area, if they build with something like Dow foam board, they don't have sheathing behind it. I may have miss used the sheathing term for there is no structural panels on the exterior of the house, only foam board. Bryan

I have no idea what the manufacturers require, but I would let in flashing above windows, etc. With pipe penetrations, I would make sure that there is a trim block at all penetrations and let in flashing there as well. When you say "let in" are you referring to extending the flashing to the interior side of the sheathing? Cause that is the only way I see to keep the water out of the wall assembly. Bryan

Here is a photo of a through wall penetration that is not flashed or sealed to the exterior sheathing. What really has me intrigued about this is there was a dark spot on the floor below the clothes dryer that started at the band board and went inward. The spot tested about slightly wetter than the surrounding sub-floor materials. The homeowners, for whom I am working, indicated that the washer has never overflowed, and the stain is adjacent to the washer, not below it. What I am speculating is happening is moisture is penetrating the masonry veneer, running down the back side of the veneer or the sheathing, following the dryer vent into the wall cavity, then sinking to the sub-floor. Given the visible penetration of the HVAC exhaust it appears that exterior wall penetrations were not sealed to the water resistant sheeting. Also if you look at the photo you can see where water has made its way in at the HVAC exhaust. Bryan Click to Enlarge 53.05 KB

Very true. Let me phase it a different way. How do you flash the head of a window or door when there is nothing to lap over the head flashing? The same would go for a pipe penetration. Bryan

Mike, I don't think so. I could dig the whole joint out and it looked like pure mason sand and you could tell where they had "caped off" the joint on the exterior. Bryan

In Indiana a majority of the state is still under the 2003 IRC with Indiana amendments. With that, and if I am reading the code correctly, the use of a weather resistant membrane is not required under most exterior finishes. However, a weather resistant membrane or water repellent sheeting is required under masonry veneer. On a large number of the new homes in our area they are using foam insulation board for the exterior sheeting (water repellent sheeting). Therefore, how does one go about properly detailing wall penetrations and windows? I typically see 4 inch butyl flashing tape used around the window; however, it is just adhered to the foam board. I am of the opinion that the tape will fail much sooner than later and then you have a leaky window, door or wall penetration. Additionally, this same theory can be said about all horizontal sheathing joints that have been taped. I have seen somewhere; however can't remember where, where the sheathing board should have a "Z" type flashing at all horizontal joints. This could be as simple as a piece of house wrap tucked under the upper board and draped to the exterior side of the sheet beneath. Should this same principle be utilized at all windows, doors and wall penetrations? Bryan

I did a 3 year warranty inspection last week on a home with brick and cement siding. All of the exterior finishes had issues; however, on the east elevation of the home about 4 feet up there was a row of bricks with the head joint full of sand and covered by a thin layer of mortar. The head joint mortar was already failing and there was a horizontal crack in the mortar joint above. The question is, short of a very poor installation, why would the head joints be full of sand? Bryan Click to Enlarge 79.07 KB

OK, thank you. Bryan

May be above the roof plane was the wrong choice for the description. What about at the roof plane/sheathing line. Bryan

I have looked through all of my code books and can't seem to find a reference that addresses chimney chases. Can anyone point me to a code reference to whether fire blocking is required for the chimney Chase above the roof plane? Bryan

Thank you all. Bryan

Is there a correct fitting to connect the water softener discharge to the main line and still have an air gap? Bryan

Thank you gentlemen, that is what i was looking for. Bryan

To those who are doing warranty inspections is your report the same as a typical home inspection or do you just address the issues and problems at hand? Bryan

Thanks Mike

Can any one point me to a code reference regarding the minimum distance real wood siding and painted wood trim should be held off of roof shingles? Bryan