Bryan

In the current economic times I know various inspectors are doing a number of Repo inspections for lenders. I have a few questions regarding this type of inspection to see what everyone else is doing. 1.How did/do you go about securing these inspections? 2.Do you do a regular inspection report, or something different? 3.If different what do you do? 4.What are some of the issues of this type of work? Thank you Bryan

Do you know the brand? I believe Certain Teed "shangles" had a history of issues like those shown in the photos. Bryan

Good evening, I know this is not directly related to home inspections; however, I am looking for some advice from knowledgeable folks. I am looking for some input on a Johnson Controls pneumatic system at our church, which used to be a small school building. The main air compressor is in the process of failing and will need to be replaced very soon. On top of that the air dryer is now plugged up and will need to be replaced also. My main questions are: #1- Do I need a $1,700- 3,500 compressor (what the mechanical contractor is trying to sell us) for this application or can I install a good contractors grade oil lube unit plumbed onto the old 30 gallon tank. #2- The air dryer we currently have is a refrigeration type. On a recent Internet search I see both refrigerant dryers and desiccant filters. Will the desiccant filter provide adequate moisture protection or is it worth the extra cost for refrigeration. Thank you in advance for any input Bryan

I believe it is part of a dutch gable. Bryan

A question regarding "joint flashing". When I was doing remodeling work we always used flashing behind the but joints. However, as I continue to learn about different materials and best practices I have to question what is the best flashing material for this application? I always used aluminum flashing, now I am wondering about possible corrosion with the cement siding? Therefore, what is the "best" flashing material for the job: felt, aluminum, PVC coil stock, commercial grade tyvek,...? Bryan

Jim, What is your reason for the full face respirator? Bryan

No, it was good old roll roofing not Mod Bit.. The buckets of tar and sealent were still on the roof top. The building was renovated 8 years ago and reroofed this last spring. The original EPDM did not last long. Bryan Bryan

NO, it's asphalt shingles over felt. 2 1/2-3/12 pitch, lots of issues and some ponding in the "valley" Image Insert: 55.34 KB Image Insert: 69.8 KB Image Insert: 46.57 KB

I am looking for a recommendation on coveralls and knee pads. All of the coveralls I have tried are to short, i'm 6'3" and they don't fit or hold up. I would preferred the Tyvec type; however, may have to go with cotton. to gain a better fit. What is the preference on knee pads, type, brand? Bryan

Scott, Thank you for the download, it had info that was helpfull. The hole roof system on the building was a mess. It was all low slope with architectural shingles and EPDM. The details were very poor and will most likely cut the life expectancy of the roof system in half. Bryan

[ quote]Was it a "modular" home as you say it is or is it a "manufactured" home with a metal chassis and long stringers over a steel backbone for a floor system. If it was a manufactured home, they place that barrier on the underside of the insulation to 1. hold it up under the floors. 2. minimize the amount of moisture that gets up under the floors from the usually uncovered earth beneath. It's normal and they are rarely intact; some ijit usually cuts through them someplace and never repairs them or some animule will get up in there. If it is a manufactured home, please make a conscious effort NOT to call them modular homes because the difference is night and day. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike Mike, It was a modular building converted into an assisted living facility, which was constructed out of "pods" of approximately 12' x 24'. A very interesting set up and design. When they converted it to an assisted living they had to install all new plumbing throughout the crawl areas. During this period of the project the crawls were left a mess with debri and holes throughout the under deck covering. Bryan

On a recent modular building inspection there was a "plastic type" barrier on the bottom side of the floor system with about 3 1/2 inches of fiberglass insulation between the joist. This barrier appears to be on the wrong side, or am i missing something? Is it possible it was just there to hold the insulation in-place during transportation. Bryan

I am looking for information on EPDM installed directly over plywood. You can see the H clips and nail heads showing through the membrane. I am pretty sure this is wrong and would like something to back it up. Also on the same inspection they ran the asphalt shingles down over the membrane. I remember reading somewhere, can't remember where, that this should not be done cause of an incompatably issue between the rubber and asphalt. Any information or direction would be helpful. Bryan

Condensate water is very acidic and drain lines on metal roofs should be ran to the gutter or off of the roof system to prevent corrision of the roof deck. Bryan

Looking for decoder info for an Appollo water heater S#895413751. I thought there was a chart in the Library; however, i could not locate it. Has it been removed or renamed? Thank You Bryan

I see wood trim and siding installed with out the proper clearance to flashing, concrete and earth. I know it's wrong and there should be clearance to prevent wicking of moisture which will lead to rot and detereration. It is rare anyone would remove all the trim and siding to repair the issue, so what should the recommendation be to the client? Bryan

Chad, Do either of the machines have a step down transformers? It has been a while since I did industrial maintenance; however, dosn't a step down transformer produce its own neutral? 220 volts going in and 120 volts going out? Bryan

From the property condition report for a local hotel. Dang, I can't remember which way the boss told to to lap these panels! Oh well. Click the photo to Enlarge Many thanks to Bryan McCarty (User Name: Bryan)Frankfort, IN

Nearly all of the buildings with in this complex had the same type of crack at the corners. The building were constructed in 1977, the foundations show no evidance of settlement. The only thing I can come up with is stress cracking from the offset in the brick between the 2 elevations at the corners. Also there are no weep holes in the wall. Image Insert: 58.8 KB Bryan

I am in the process of placing a vapor barrier under my home. I am using a 10 mil product called Vapor Block, which I picked up at my local concrete supply house. The material is Blue in color, tear resistant and heavy as all get. It came in a 15 X 200 foot roll and cost around $340. They also have a special 4" tape for the seems. Bryan

They are most likely grade stakes from when the floor was poured. they usually drive them below the finished floor after the concrete is poured and finish over them. Bryan

Thank you for the input so far. Our firm is working for the lender on this project doing the draw and progress inspection regarding the building. This is a 10,000 square foot wooden pole structure (barn) being constructed as a church building. The church had the shell and exterior finishes completed by a contractor and they are finishing the rest of the building themself. The plans are minimal with the rest being complete on a design and build bases. Truely I am not sure how they recieved there state plan release with the available prints and lack of details. I do believe that there will be a great moisture problem due to the fact a vapor barrier is rearly installed correctly, especially at penetrations for fixtures and duct work. Kurt, IMHO the spray insulation is the only way to when you have an exsisting roof in-place. I built metal building for a while and on rehab work we always had problems with condensation due to the purlins and other penetrations. Bryan

I am looking for some solid information to back up my findings from a recent progress inspection. The building is a pole structure with metal siding and roof panels installed directly to the framing. On the interior of the side walls they used 1 1/2" spray foam, however; no foam or insulation on the bottom of the roof metal. All heat ducts are in the attic space and the plans indicate 16" of blown cellouse for the attic. Also the soffits have continous vents around the building, the contractor indicates the ridge of the building is vented and this will provide adiquate air flow to prevent condensation. I have been around these buildings in the past and have never seen one with a vented ridge and the ridge filler appears to be solid foam. Therefore, I believe that this building will be soaked from condensation as soon as the structure is conditioned on that first cold morning. Furthermore, the insulation contractor does not see anything wrong with the system. Thank you in advance Bryan

I am prepairing to install all new siding, trim, and windows in our 100 year old farm house. The home currently has cheap vinyl siding and even cheaper replacement windows. I will be installing Pella new construction windows, fiber cement siding and vinyl soffit. I am also looking to use cellular core PVC trim around the windows , doors and corners. Is anyone seeing the PVC trim being used out in the field and are you seeing any problems or issues with the material? Under the vinyl siding is old dutch lap, it is solid; however, not flat or smooth. I am considering using a Rain Screen to smooth out the wall, which will do double duty in the moisture control area. Does anyone see rain screens on siding jobs anymore? If so what is the ideal material, OSB, plywood, 1x3, or other? Is 1/2 material enough of a gap or is more required. I know JLC did a small articial on this some time back; however, I can't find it at this time.

Are the date codes for comerical grade water heaters the same as residental? Also what is the life expectancy of such units? They are in a 40 unit apartment building. i would expect it to be less, however, how much less. Bryan