Bryan

Thanks for the information so far.To answer a few more questions /comments, the copper water line extends through the floor slab in the middle of the unit. Therefore, who know where it goes or what its composition is once it goes underground, I can only assume it is all copper given the 35-40 year age of the building. The grounding clamp on the water lines appears to be original given the paint build up on the clamp; however, the grounding wire is new. The EMT conduit should run back to the disconnect and may have been used originally for the ground. However, when sparky upgraded, the fitting and lock nut were not installed tight or with a jumper wire bonded to the new panel. I think at a minimum the ground and natural conductors need to be isolated. The sad part is this panel has pasted the city inspection. Bryan

Good morning, I inspected an apartment complex under renovation yesterday where they are replacing some of the breaker sub panels. The original panels were three wire ran underground in EMT from the meter/disconnect to the sub. The new panels are set up the same way except they have added a fourth conductor as a ground to the near by copper water line. My question, is the water line connected conductor adequate to serve as the equipment ground or should they have installed an additional conductor back tot the disconnect? My initial thought process was no it is not adequate; however, I wanted to post to be sure. There is also other problems with the panel such as mixed grounds and naturals. Thanks in advance Bryan Click to Enlarge 77.91 KB

Just curious, below is from Indiana's Home Inspection law. Do other states have something similar? Would this stand up in the court? "IC 25-20.2-9-2 Immunity from liability if not party to contract Sec. 2. A licensed home inspector is not liable to a person for damages that arise from an act or omission relating to a home inspection if the person is not a party to the contract under which the home inspection is conducted. As added by P.L.145-2003, SEC.7." Bryan

Scott, Do you know if Painted plywood is allowed? Bryan

Good afternoon, I am working with a local lender on a construction loan project for a residence. The question is what, if any, floor covering are required for a C of O? I can imagine one might be required in the kitchen and bath area due to moisture and other possible contamination concerns. I have a call into our local building department; however, they are closed for the weekend. Thank you Bryan

Have you looked at or considered any of the architectural precast systems. These products seem to be ever evolving and the better looking ones look pretty good. Bryan

"The size of the roof drain system is based on local rainfall rates. Both the International Plumbing Code (IPC) and the Uniform Plumbing Code (UPC) publish rainfall rates. These rates can be found in Appendix B of the IPC and Appendix D of the UPC. The rainfall data in the UPC is based on National Weather Service Technical Paper No. 40, Chart 14: 100-Year 60-Minute Rainfall. The IPC bases its data on “a storm of onehour duration and a 100-year period,â€

Try this http://www.hud.gov/offices/hsg/sfh/ref/sfhp1-26.cfm , it appears to back up your first item. Bryan

In Indiana wells are regulated by the Department of Natural Resources. I have attached our regulations, which indicates they should be 12" or higher. Bryan Download Attachment: Water Well Location Guidelines.pdf 179.21 KB

Is anyone reporting on the added cost associated with the replacement of a condensing unit that is at the end of its estimated useful life due to the new Freon requirements being implemented in 2010. Bryan

Thank you for the quick responses. Bryan

I need help confirming my findings regarding the service entrance cable on today's inspection. The breaker is 100 amps being fed by number 4 TWH copper. My understanding, per code check, a number 4 service conductor wire size should be protected a 100 AMPS, and therefore, this set up should be adequate. Is my thinking along the correct path. Thanks in advance Bryan

The books I have read and studied on installing hardwood flooring usually recommend that the subfloor be at least 1 inch thick. Depending on how the flooring was orientated, per the below information from Bruces web site, an underlayment is recommended. "When installing parallel to the floor joists it may be necessary to stiffen the subfloor system by installing an additional minimum of 3/8#8243; (9.5 mm) approved underlayment. Applicable standards and recommendations of the construction and materials industries must be met or exceeded" Bryan

For what it is worth, Grace has an excellent set of downloads available on their site for the various products they manufacture. Bryan

The attached PDF is from the Grace web site and addresses one additional method of "stripping in" the drip edge between two layers of IWS. I also seem to remember something about installing the IWS over the eve and into the gutter; however, I can not seem to remember where I read that. Bryan Download Attachment: Grace Eve Detail.pdf 387.78 KB

Here are photos of two perforated pits that are used by a local basement and crawl space company. Click to Enlarge 38.17 KB Click to Enlarge 20.36 KB Bryan

Thank you for helping to set me straight. I am not sure where I picked up the wye information, but it stuck with me. As far as the connector pipe there is plenty of height to cover the slope needed. Bryan

Thank you Jim, If I read that information correctly even units set side by side can use a tee instead of a Wye. I am not sure where I got the other Information/idea from. Is their a installation that specifically calls for a wye vs a tee? Bryan

The attached photo is the water heater exhaust piping for a 4 story building under construction. The water heaters are "stacked" above each other with a B-vent running vertical in a concealed chase behind the water heater closet. The "T" will extend the piping horizontal to the water heater closet for the finial connection. The only exception to this would be the unit on the ground floor where the piping enters the mechanical closet through the ceiling. My question is, is a "T" the correct fitting? I have been under the impression for some time that the connection fitting in this case should be a WYE. Bryan Click to Enlarge 43.32 KB

Not sure if this will help; however, it does contain some rain screen details. Download Attachment: RainScreen-1-1.pdf 1282.22 KB

I have an inspection coming up for an estate property with two homes. Are there any recommendations regarding the report, one report broken into two sections, two seperate reports, one report combining both homes and grounds? Bryan

Steven, How did you get into this type of service? It is something I have thought about; however, have not taken the time to really look into. Bryan

I think we have multipule issues related to the problem. First the dampproofing is not terminated, so I know some water is getting in there. However, when we first looked at this a few weeks ago, when the ground was still frozen, the concrete wall was still wet/damp. I do not think the ICF would play that much of a roll in the issue; however, the way they are poured, very slowly to avoid a blow out could create a cold joint. The main challenge would be how to terminate the dampproofing materials to the foam. Well at this point I am not ruling anything out. Bryan

Kurt, The deepest part of the foundation is about 11 feet below grade; therefore, excavating and doing anything to the basement wall or drain tile will not be fun or cheap. The dampproofing is the 3 feet wide sheets of membrane applied vertical to the ICF. The perimeter drain is the "form a drain' material ran to daylight and a sumppit in the basement. I have only seen that product used twice, and both basements had leak issues. As far as cracks, it is hard to tell given the foam forms. He has removed the drywall in one of the rooms and popped out some foam cores, and the concrete, as well as the back of the drywall was wet. Exterior grade could use improvement against the house; however, there is good fall from 3 feet and out. No pictures at this time I will stop by and get some. Thank so far, Bryan

I am looking for some good information on the correct way to install a basement drainage system. I have a client with a two year old home with a walk out lower level, constructed from ICF. They have had issues in the past and recently removed some of the drywall to find mold and water intrusion. We had a bunch of rain today and the wall is leaking pretty good. I believe that the exterior drainage system is really screwed up or non-exsistent. Bryan