Ponyboy

Just looked at a PEX plumbing job which has some interesting features. Below is a manifold for the hot water distribution. Ever seen this one? Click to Enlarge 30.97 KB This a a cold water manifold, a little more typical. Click to Enlarge 29.42 KB Typical pipe routing and mounting to floor framing and crimp connections. Click to Enlarge 25.47 KB The piping is HydroPEX. Anybody aware of any problems with this PEX system? I am always suspicious of the systems with the brass fittings and metal crimp rings. I know Zurn fittings have problems, but I believe they are matched with a different brand of Pex piping. I am mainly concerned about recalls or fitting failures.

Thanks for the feedback. I wrote up the lack of an impact protection post at the exposed LP pipe. Gas meters and piping are required to have protection when adjacent to a driveway, so I figure the LP line should as well.

Content deleted by Editor: Please do not make multiple identical posts in different forums.

I need some LP gas line help. This installation was in the city which is pretty rare for LP in my area. The LP gas line on the exterior of the house consists of 1/2" copper tubing loosely running down the side of the house into the ground. The driveway also exists on this side of the house. The pipe appears to go under the driveway to the storage tank. Standard black iron piping was used inside of the house. This pipe looks improperly installed, but I can't find ant pipe installation guidleines in NFPA-58. I think the piping should be black iron into the ground with some car protection. I am also posting in the HVAC forum. Click to Enlarge 25.77 KB Click to Enlarge 22.35 KB

Below is a picture of an orphanned water heater flue (4") connected to the original metal exhaust flue (12"). The original flue was sized for two gas furnaces and the gas water heater. The new gas furnaces are direct vent units. The flue vent is three stories tall on this house. I found no evidence of any backdrafting and the furnace room has a good combustion air supply. Any problem to report? Click to Enlarge 39.6 KB

The roofing material has been confirmed as James Hardie from the home owner. No claim against James Hardie has ever been filed. As you might expect the selling agents are telling me they have had many roofers say the roof is fine, NOT. The roof is 15 years old and falling apart. A new roof will be needed in the near future.

Thanks for the links. I was having trouble finding anything. Could these shingles be a different brand such as Cemwood or Permatek?

Attached are pictures of some deteriorated shingles I looked at today. I think it may be a James Hardie product, but could not exactly identify them. Based on the age of the house these shingles are probably 13 - 18 years old. The shingles are delaminating and falling apart. I am trying and get an exact ID on the shingles so I can do some research on any recalls or class action lawsuits. I need data to build a good case to replace the roof. Click to Enlarge 75.45 KB Click to Enlarge 92.96 KB Click to Enlarge 73.26 KB

Thanks guys, I called for installing B-vent from the furnace to the existing B-vent. The furnace is about ten years old so it should be B-vent. Bill, thanks for the expanded code wording. Code check had the same information but in their condensed fashion. Thanks Brad

Having a little dipute with a furnace guy. I called out the single wall flue connector in the garage for the furnace and water heater. The garage is barely attached to the house, is old and uninsulated. I know this is a cold area and should be B-vent, but code check does not specifically state garages only cold areas. Am I right in calling for a B-vent at this location? Click to Enlarge 87.03 KB

I have the installation instructions for HardiePanel and Artisan Matrix Panel. I can send them to you if you'd like, but again, I don't think there's any details about penetrations. Thanks Bill. I also have not found any penetration details. Most caps or penetrations are mounted on wood blocking then the blocking is metal flashed into the rain screen. This builder did not use the blocking and flashed the vents with peel-and-stick flashing directly to the rain screen. After review, this should be fine. The gas flue is being fixed which was the main screw up. The meet and great is this afternoon, should be fun.

Yes, the product was confirmed as Hardie. They do not have any specs for this type of panel system. A rain screen product (Vapro Shield) is installed against the sheathing and the penetrations are flashed with peel and stick flashing tape. The siding panels are held off the rain screen with 1/2" furring and the panels are spaced apart 1/2". By design you see the Rain Screen behind the hardy panels. The gas vent has been verified by the builder as a screw-up and he will be opening the siding and reflashing in this area. Still want to find some drawings for typical installations. Off to search the web again.

This building which I recently inspected has a James Hardie panel siding system installed with a rain screen behind the panels. (new construction) I can not find any architectural details about proper flashing and trim for this type of system. I found areas of concern, but have not been able to get the builder to furnish details for the siding system. The builder wants to meet at the site to discuss my concerns, but I need more data to back up my position. I do not like going head to head with builders. This building had many unfinished areas and questionable craftsmanship. Any siding resources would be great and how would you deal with this issue? Click to Enlarge 23.1 KB Over-all view of siding system. Click to Enlarge 12.35 KB The direct gas vent was cut through the system after installation. I can look into the interior around the vent Click to Enlarge 12.51 KB Poor quality trim installation at pipes. Click to Enlarge 11.64 KB This vent is mounted directly on the rain screen. All other installations I have inspected have the vent set on wood blocking and then the siding is butted to the blocking. Click to Enlarge 7.37 KB Electrical box mounted directly on rain screen. Siding hole cut to small preventing the box cover from being closed.

The supports are plastic plumbers tape wrapped around the pipes. All of the repairs being performed at this house are by a handyman contractor. The seller and contractor keep calling wanting me to specify exactly how I want the defects fixed so it will pass inspection. The seller does not want to bring out contractors for each trade. I hate reinspections like these.

The first picture of the PEX piping is during the original inspection. Click to Enlarge 30.96 KB The second picture is after the handyman added pipe supports. Click to Enlarge 27.97 KB Sure some pipe supports were added about every 36 inches, but I still think it is a crappy plumbing job. In my opinion, this piping should has been secured to the floor framing but a local, licensed plumber said it is fine. I still think it is a crappy job! Brad

Thanks for all the replies. I do appreciate all comments, this is a great community of inspectors. The scrub joint is exactly what exists on the chimney exterior. Everybody is on-board for a new firebox, except for the builder. The repair is do or die as far as my client is concerned. The terminology varies, but the client is well aware the current repairs are inadequate.

Hi Mike, Has a study guide for the state test been written? Also are the SOP completed for review?

The firebox in a recent old house restoration inspection is crumbling and the back appears to be collapsing. The outside of the chimney was also tuck-pointed with a skim coat of mortar (1/8"). That was a joke. I recommended full tuck-pointing, but the builder has refused. I also recommended having the firebox rebuilt. The builder is suggesting doing an "overlay". Any idea what he is talking about? I have stated in my report any repairs are to be done be a licensed masonry contractor to try and control and builder BS repairs.

Hi Jim, Yes, this is the shingle panel product and not the individual shingles, which I originally thought. The panels are 48" long. The installation instructions only state that the keyways not line up, but an offset in inches is not mentioned. Offset for the individual shingles is 1-1/2". The builder did talk with JH and was told that if any keyway lines up with a panel joint, then the panel joint would need to be caulked. I was on site Saturday with the builder and an agent. We had four panels which we experimented with the layout. Truely the only problem area is at the panel joints. I looked at the installation again and could not find any areas of exposed panel joints and no exposed building paper. We agreed it was a bad installation, but probably would not increase the chance of water intrusion. The builder also agreed to get an installation specialist from James Hardie on site to look at the installation and will perform any repairs specified by JH.

Window? I can't see that one. After reviewing the installation instructions and diagrams closely, it does not appear that any gaps directly to the building paper will result if the keyways line up. This is in contrast to this defect occurring in a shingle installation. Thus my concern about water intrusion may be over-the-top. I do think it would void the warranty if James Hardie was called out on a claim.

The keyways of the shingle panels line up at several location on this four-plex building (new construction). JH installation instructions only state not to line up the keyways of subsequent courses, but does not spec an exact amount of offset. Installation instructions for the individual shingle product require an offset of 1-1/2" at the keyways. I recommended reinstalling the siding and of course the builder is having a sh*t fit. I am most concerned about the south facing gable which will get hammered with wind driven rain. The other areas are protected from the weather. I think this condition could lead to water leakage and should be corrected. What do you say? Click to Enlarge 52.43 KB Click to Enlarge 69.01 KB

Well the mold issue was not as bad as the homeowner was telling me on the phone. The pictures below are of the the walls in the master bedroom. The white efflorescence looking stains look like water condensing on the interior wall surfaces. I did not find elevated moisture readings in the GWB. No black mold in the house. The attic was totally dry, well ventilated and no signs of mold or elevated moisture levels. This house was a wreck when I looked at it five years ago. Since then; the windows have been updated, new oil furnace installed, new electric water heater, new roof, new gutters. The only structural moisture issues I found were a plugged dryer vent, the bathroom fan venting into the attic which was fixed by the roofer on Thursday, low air flow from the bathroom fan, and the main floor bathroom surround and floor rotting out and absorbing moisture. These folks keep the furnace down at 40 degrees. They only turned it up when we went through a recent cold snap, to maybe 50 degrees and then turned it back down. I think when the interior temperature was raised the humidity level went up and then when they turned it back down the water condensed on the inside walls??? I convinced then to run their furnace more and heat the house at about 60 degrees. I will also have them repair the noted defects and improve the attic (low) and wall (probably zero) insulation. Click to View 42.43 KB Click to View 26.59 KB

Off to the house this morning. Thanks Mike, I have been referring NVL for many years. All interesting items to check into during the inspection. Having the owner of the house with me should help develope some better past history for the house.

I need some referrals for Seattle area mold inspection companies. I will be reinspecting a house I inspected ten years ago. My clients had a new roof installed five years ago and started smelling mold three years ago. This year they observed moisture running down the interior sides of the exterior walls of the house. They called the roofer out who reported the plywood sheathing was not cut back when the ridge vent was installed and that was the cause of the mold smell. This small blunder is being repaired tomorrow and I am returning to the house on Friday to perform a full inspection. The owner says the mold smell is so strong they keep windows open in the winter. These folks are real nice, but why they let this problem fester for so long is beyond me. If I find wet, moldy conditions in the attic I want to refer them to a reputable mold contractor.

Hey Mike, The third picture down is the top edge of the vertical side pant-ons at all the windows. The top and bottom edges are not back wrapped. The bottom picture shows the mesh sticking out of the base coat of the ppant-on and the finish of the plant-ons. All are only base coated, not finish coat. Writing the report this morning. The roof was also just grand. New install 50 year shingle with improper layout. Exposed shingle butt joints across the entire roof.