Ponyboy

Below are some pictures of the exterior stucco application. The stucco is a one coat system applied directly to the brick. A primer/sealer was applied to the brick prior to the stucco being applied. The Dryvit acrylic top coat was then applied over the stucco. All of the original brick weep holes have been filled, but this should be ok since the acrylic is waterproof. This application looked ok. EIFS trim is installed around the windows. The trim is just glued on top of the stucco and was not blended into the stucco system. The top and bottom ends of the vertical trim are not backwrapped and a finish coat was not applied over the base coat. I think the trim installation was real cheap. The brick around the windows is wrapped with a plastic trim product. Caulking of the trim was minimal and some trim pieces covered the window weep holes. What do you think? Click to View 64.86 KB Click to View 40.28 KB Click to View 39.77 KB Click to View 36.44 KB

Well it should be an interesting inspection. Spent some time brushing up on my stucco and EIFS details. Determining the actual drainage plane will be the big challenge.

Hi Mike, Thanks for the offer, but I have the EIFS Existing Construction Inspection, maintenance and Repair Guide by Robert Thomas, Jr. I have not inspected an E.I.F.S. house for some time so a little brush up will be needed. I thought it was an E.I.F.S. job when I first saw the pictures, but am being told it is a stucco job. The buyer sent me this list of left over products in the garage; *#148;Behr#148; Premium Plus paint (ltd lifetime warranty) in Exterior flat, interior satin enamel & ceiling paint varieties. *#148;Dryvit#148; Freestyle Mid Base (in 5 gall jug/s) *#148;Dryvit#148; Sandblast NTX PMR Mid Base (in 5 gall jug/s) *#147;Basalite#148; Stucco premix- pre-blended #147;superior stucco base coat#148;. There was about 1/3 of a 80 lbs bag left over. I was concerned about the drainage plain, if the brick weep holes were plugged and damage to the brick when the E.I.F.S. or stucco was installed. I see problems with either system being installed over the origianl brick veneer. Thanks Brad

An upcoming inspection (Friday) is a 1940's house in Seattle with a brick veneer exterior. The builder has covered the old brick with stucco, added foam trim, then applied Dryvit as a finish coat. I have seen pictures of the house and no control/expansion joints exist. I will be looking closely at the window flashing and caulk. I have not ever seen this application in Seattle. I am wondering about what will be the drainage plain if the weep holes of the old brick are plugged and if the brick is damaged from the installation of the stucco over the brick. I have had several conversations with my client and he is aware of the limites of my inspection, but is very worried about the siding installation. Other items I should be looking for? Link to listed property below: http://www.zillow.com/homedetails/12005 ... 7494_zpid/

I have looked through the code and can't find any statements saying horizontal rail are not allowed. The barrier requirement for pools states it can't be climbable. Besides the spacing issue, is this rail ok? Image Insert: 81.31 KB

I am in the process of renewing my E&O insurance with BRP. I really hate it this year! What coverage limits would you pick and why; $500,000 or $300,000. A new offering from BRP is a $3,000 deductible instead of $5,000 deductible for a lower premium?

Yes their is a bunch of other stuff at this house, a detached garage with a 200 amp panel and additional panels for hot tub and pool equipment. One more panel is only accessible when the porch is lifted. None of the panel covers were secured, including the large meter box.

No. Yes. The general rule is that the service disconnecting means should have no more than six breakers or switches. The general rule says nothing about "operations of the hand." The only place where the NEC talks about "operations of the hand" is regarding multiwire circuits. If a multiwire circuit comprises one or more of the main disconnects, it's individual breakers can be tied together with an *identified* handle tie or a master handle to enable someone to disconnect them with a single operation of the hand (with a total of "six operations of the hand" to shut all of the disconnects). Now, remember that this is the 2008 NEC. In previous editions, there were still a maximum of six disconnects for the entire service but the number of disconnects per panelboard depended on the type of panelboard. If it was a lighting and appliance panel, you could only have two disconnects. (A lighting and appliance panel was defined as having 10% or more of it's circuits protected at 30 amps or less.) That's why, for the past 20 years or so, we rarely saw more than two disconnects per panel. That rule is now gone. - Jim Katen, Oregon What about this lay-out. Each panel is an exterior disconnect. Five separate disconnects in all, but the exterior covers have to also be opened. Can you count opening the exterior panel cover as an operation? Never mind that you have to pull up the hinged porch cover to get to the lower two diconnects or the house main panel located in the bathroom, just minor details! Image Insert: 192.77 KB

I have read through the information about the Zurn Pex piping and the failing fittings. Only a couple lawsuits against the product. How big of a problem is it really? I am contemplating how to right this in my report. My client is young and trying to get a deal on this house which is in forclosure. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Well, that is the million dollar question!?!? I have another twist to this installation. Just was at the house with an HVCA consultant and he noted that the air return which the furnace is sitting on is built of wood with no sealed joints. Does anybody know if this is allowed? If not it would be great to add to my case of installing a new direct vent furnace.

Two gas appliances (natural draft water heater & Type I gas furnace) installed in the basement are using exterior mounted B-vents. The vents are both about 30 feet tall. Based on the venting table I have this installation is acceptable. But at a recent seminar Doug Hansen stated this installation can casue problems with drafting. Can't remember exactly what Doug said so looking for some advice? Brad Image Insert: 776.1 KB Download Attachment: water heater flue.jpg 696.28

Just looked at a 3 year old home in Trilogy at Redmond Ridge. Air conditioning was installed 2 years ago and the contractor disabled the Whole House Ventilation System because they say it will void the air conditioner warranty. I think this situation will reduce the air quality inside of this house and the WHVS should be reconnected. I also ran into the same situation in a 1o year old house not to long ago. I checked with my local HVAC code consultant and he feels this is an incorrect installed. Any input would be appreciated since I will probably have to do some battle next week.

I have never seen a 90 plus venting up a chimney, ever. The vent would have to go up three stories. I have also been told you can not mix different exhaust systems together which is what has occured. Also I could not find an exterior vent location for the furnace.

Well I just shut down a furnace today when I found the flue disconnected from the furnace. A single mom and two kids live in the house. The rust around the flue connection indicates it has been disconnected for some time. As I followed the plastic flue to the foundation it connects into a flex metal gas flue and disappears into the old oil furnace chimney liner. Note the connector is a plumbing drain connector between the plastic and metal. This is a remodeled house (2005 second story addition) where the brick chimney has been extended and enclosed in wood framing. No gas vents outside, just one for the fireplace. Of course the home owner flipped out called the contractor who had some choice words for me! Looking for some gas flue installation language so I can have a very accurate report. I was just informed the seller will have a furnace contractor at the house 8:30 AM tomorrow and they want copy of my findings about the flue. What would you say? Image Insert: 20.74 KB Image Insert: 19.36 KB

Yes

This house in Everett also had other interesting installations. The crash protection post at the water heater is 4" ABS plastic, but a wheel stop is connected to the slab a little further infront of the water heater. Also in WA newer homes must have a Whole House Ventilation System. This house had the window air intake vents, but no exhaust fan timer.

Ok, I learned something new, I have never seen an FVIR installed before. I was told at the last seminar that an ignition source would also include any electrical wiring or components.

Two year old house and the furnace burner is only 12 inches off of the slab. The furnace is a standard 85 percent with an air intake at the burner elevation. The gas water heater in the garage is installed directly on the slab. The pilot area is sealed, but the unit has combustion air intake vents on the sides at the slab. A gas/electric washer/dryer unit is also installed on the slab. I know the UBC required all gas burners to be above the 18 inch level. I recall from my last seminar that the IRC states all combustion sources gas and electric must be above the 18 inch level. The builder stated the rule applies to the air intakes of the appliances, which are below the 18 inch level anyway. What is the exact wording in the IRC? Would you call this out as a defect?