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Ponyboy

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Everything posted by Ponyboy

  1. Click to Enlarge 68.32 KB
  2. Thanks for all the input and keeping my moral compass pointed in the right direction. I'm telling all parties to pound sand! If I am to error, I always want to error on the cautious/safe side.
  3. Thanks for the advice on this subject. I do listen to, trust in and value your opinions, or I would have never posted this issue. Mike - I do understand the COE for my license and I do appreciate that reminder. I do not intend to violate the code in any way. I do not intend to hide any findings of my inspection, but defects and/or concerns can be written in many ways. Below is the full electrical page of my report for review. If my comments are alarmist (as Richard and Les have stated) what would be better wording for this problem? Would it be an ethical violation to change my wording so the report is not alarmist but still conveys the problem with the electrical system to my client. Download Attachment: 101203-electrical.pdf 9.68 KB
  4. I have spoke with my client and they want the building and they are locked into a low interest rate and do not want to loose their financing. They are also asking me to tone the report down on the electrical so they can close the deal. I have made it clear that the report has to state these panels are potential fire hazards. I think I will have to sleep on it.
  5. I am in a moral dilemma and need the TIJ's help. I recently inspected a 12 unit apartment building. The building has all Zinsco sub-panels, meters panels and main disconnects. I stated this: Sub-Panels - 1) Zinsco electrical panels are installed as sub-panels in each apartment and as the main service equipment in the utility room of this building. Serious electrical hazards may be present in the electrical panels due to poor quality components used to build the panels and equipment. These conditions could result in overheating, fire, or inability to turn off the electrical power in the building. A licensed electrician, who is familiar with this equipment, should be retained to inspect the panels for immediate fire and shock hazards. (see photo EL2). In another section of my electrical page the panels are also rated as defective and a safety hazard. I am being told be the agents that all inspection reports for commercial buildings are submitted to the lender and my descriptions of these panels will kill the deal. I am further being told that my client is aware of the problems and wants to buy the building. I am also being told I am acting like a "home" inspector and not a "commercial building" inspector. My moral compass tells me I should tell them to take a hike, but is their any truth to writing reports differently for commercial buildings. I have been inspecting apartment buildings for several years and have not had this problem before. Does anybody change their wording in their reports about Zinsco panels if they are doing commercial building verses a home inspection? Or is their a better way to describe this problem and not use the words; Fire, defect, safety hazard?
  6. Well it doesn’t sound worth the effort to become a BPI Building Analyst. Regarding the CFL's. I have had several fail long before their life span and of course I can't find the package and receipt to get a new free one. Also, I have had trouble getting the right wattage and color of light to match standard lights. The CFL's seam to bright and too blue.
  7. I was just contacted by www.greenerdawn.com about taking their courses and getting a BPI certification. The courses cost about $1,500.00 and the equipment would cost another $10,000 - $15,000. The sales pitch is that many people will need a BPI inspection to quality for the new federal energy tax credits. I think energy inspections or audits would be great to do, but is their really a market to make a profit? How much demand is their for energy audits?
  8. The active well on this property is a rock lined shallow well about 6-8 feet deep with a sheet of plywood over the top and then covered with plastic. I am no very familiar with wells, but know this is not a proper shallow well. What are the regulations for shallow wells? Click to Enlarge 56.56 KB A well head for a deep well was located on the other side of this property. The top of the pipe is welded shut and the metal tag on the well reads: Department Of Ecology Uniqui Well AKF912 Do not remove tag I found this tag is a well ID which led me to a Department of Ecology drilling report. This well was drilled in 2004, 61 feet, but does not look like it was ever activated. Click to Enlarge 153 KB Any other ideas?
  9. No. There's no good reason to do that. Around here, we plumb the sump pump discharge into the rain drain system. If there isn't one, you could run the discharge pipe underground to the street curb, a dry well, the low side of the lot or even a dozen or so feet out into the yard, terminating in a bubbler. I just inspected very large drainage system. Six catch basins installed around the house to collect surface water, all downspouts tight lined away from foundation, one sump pump in the basement, one sump pump in the crawl space. The crawl space pump is part of a curtain drain which is six feet deep and runs along foundation wall between the crawl space and the basement. Really nice system except that both sump pumps are discharging into the sanitary drain system. This installation was done three years ago. I know it is wrong but am looking for some more facts to base my position. Do cities require permits for drainage repairs? Does the building code regulate the discharge of storm water into sanitary sewers? Click to Enlarge 18.56 KB Click to Enlarge 23.76 KB
  10. Ponyboy

    Gas Dryer

    You've got me there Ponyboy. 'Can't use the tub when the clothes dryer is on'? What do you think the client is going to wonder about? The tub/dryer or the inspector? Marc You'r missing the heart of the question, Mark. From a safety standpoint (Carbon Monoxide poisoning), what is the difference between a gas dryer, a gas water heater or a gas furnace in the bathroom? The later two are not allowed in this location.
  11. Ponyboy

    Gas Dryer

    Gas appliances are not allowed in bedrooms or bathrooms because of carbon monoxide poisoning and combustion air concerns. If a gas water heater is not allowed in a bathroom, shouldn’t a gas dryer not be allowed for the same reasons? Since it is a condominium building I figured the owners would not change the combustion air and door to the laundry room. Currently a louvered door separates the laundry room from the bathroom. I recommended installing a Carbon Monoxide detector and not using the bathtub when the clothes dryer is in operation.
  12. Ponyboy

    Gas Dryer

    Today I looked at a 1939 condominium building which was fully renovated about 5 years ago. The gas dryer is installed in the full bathroom. I can't find gas dryers specifically mentioned in my code check book. I noted it as the same safety hazard that a gas water heater or furnace would be in a bathroom. Does the code allow a gas dryer in a bathroom or not?
  13. Yeah right!! Because of the steep pitch you could see almost the whole roof from the ground. I spent a lot of time learning about slate roofs the past few days. Many repairs on the roof have been done with exposed strap hangers, bad. The problem will be finding an experienced slater in or near Washington. Anybody know of a slater who would travel to Seattle? Lets say my client has funds and wants to retain this classic roof.
  14. Just looked at a slate tile roof. Very rare for the Seattle area. The roof is in need of repairs and cleaning. I need help clarifying the origin of the slate. The home owner insists it is Maine slate, but it sure looks like New York / Vermont slate? What do you experienced slate roof inspectors have to say? The roof is heavily covered with moss. Can the roof be cleaned. I figured a contractor would have to use a man lift to perform cleaning and repairs. Click to Enlarge 29.67 KB Click to Enlarge 29.63 KB
  15. No furnace or humidifier in this house. The house is heated by electric wall heaters. Chad, I am not against recommending a tear-off, just wanted to check with some folks before I made the call. I have not observed an attic this bad before. I will recommended roof and sheathing replacement, more ventilation and further investigation of the walls for moisture damage. Great forum for talking about these issues.
  16. This house was located North of Granite Falls. Icy snowy roads on the way out and worse on the way home. The house had been owned by the same person since built. I don't think anybody been in the attic over the last ten years. This condition really looks like a long term problem. I will be recommending unblocking the eave vents and adding a fan to improve air movement in the attic. I am also going to recommend further investigation by a mold expert. The roof sheathing was swelling from moisture, but I was not going to recommend removing it? The moisture from the slab is the really intriguing part. The picture doesn't show the problem well. But every hairline crack in the slab looks like muddy water has seeped up and dried. A few cracks had clear evidence of active water seepage. I am writing this report today so I was looking for other opinions.
  17. Afternoon inspection today has been vacant since April, heat off until the inspection today, built in 1999. Slab-on-grade daylight basement. No vapor barrier on the attic insulation. Get into the attic and it is soaking wet. All of the OSB is moldy, wet and slightly swelled. Water is dripping everywhere and the insulation and trusses are wet with water dripping off of the sheathing. The eave vents were blocked with the cardboard insulation dams. In the garage the slab is spider cracking and water stains were present at all of the cracks. A few larger cracks clearly look like water coming in through the cracks. The basement laundry room did smell musty and some mold was observed on the lower sheetrock which is against the foundation wall. The vinyl floor also had purple staining consistent with moisture damage. Could slab moisture be making it through the house and condensing in the attic? Click to Enlarge 62.37 KB Click to Enlarge 49.76 KB Click to Enlarge 48.5 KB Click to Enlarge 43.97 KB Click to Enlarge 47.77 KB
  18. A sprinkler pipe burst in my mother's condominium building across the hall from her on Tuesday night. A lot of water went from the second floor to the lower garage. I went over yesterday and water had entered her unit soaking the carpet pad, carpet in about 12 inches and the lower six inches of sheetrock along one wall. A restoration company is at the building running dehumidifiers and fans, but no repair work has begun as of today. I have seen a lot of restoration companies just dry stuff out and leave it in the building. I think any wet pad, carpet or sheetrock should be removed. This building is home to many seniors with health problems. I need some help with any regulations for flood damage repair or proper repairs to prevent mold growth?
  19. The meeting notice showed up yesterday at 3:15 pm on my e-mail. A little late to change my schedule. Meeting notices need to go out at least one week in advance.
  20. Mike, My worry is Dr Dan will pressure Rhonda to sanction home inspectors who he thinks are violating the SPI law when doing a home inspection. A loud voice is needed to protect the home inspectors from regulation by WSDA. I like Rhonda but I don't think she would do well against pressure from Dr Dan.
  21. I did not call it as wrong, it had the XL marking, just checking with you guys. The tank is at the end of it's life anyway and needs replacement.
  22. Mike, you are absolutely correct. After thinking about it, the 125 PSI valve should provide adequate pressure protection. I main TPR valve still needs to be opened. Also, the buyer is going to present my findings to the association, but we figure all the tanks in the building have been replaced in the same manner. Below is a different installation which I just looked at, very common, but the valve is not immersed in the top 6" of the water tank. Is it wrong? Click to Enlarge 37.94 KB Look closely at the RE sign on the tank. This is a great candidate for Jay Leno's headlines. Click to Enlarge 44.43 KB
  23. Why did the code require the TR valve in the plumbing system in the 1970 and 1980's anyway? My 1975 split level has both valves?
  24. Just looked at a one year old water heater in a six story condominium building built in 1989. The inspected unit is on the second floor. A TPR valve is installed on the water heater but is plugged. A PR valve is installed on the hot water pipe above the water heater. Can the PR valve on the water pipe substitute for the TPR valve on the water heater? I called it out as a safety hazard and am concerned that all of the water heaters are installed in the same manner in this building. Click to Enlarge 13.82 KB Click to Enlarge 12.48 KB
  25. The corrugated pipe is the flex connector to the water heater below. Also, the water piping supports the BX conduit (right side of picture) for the water heater! A pressure balance loop? That's a new animal I have not heard of one before. This house is an old craftsman, just remodeled with a second story added. The builder is the seller.
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