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I returned to inspect a house that I inspected seven years ago when it was a year old. The gaps in some the Hardiplank joints have expanded to 1/4" wide, exposing the joint flashing. Some of the planks broke where they were face nailed. My photos from seven years ago show all the joints were tight (no caulk). Discoloration of the siding and wood fascia, and leaking gutters lead me to suspect water intrusion at the wall. Can Hardiplank shrink? There was very little waviness or buckling in the planks. Could a wet wall behind the siding expand and create joint gaps? The temperature difference between inspections was less than ten degrees. Thanks Click to Enlarge 39.53 KB Click to Enlarge 36.42 KB

I encountered a roof covering on a 1966 building that I haven't seen before. The covering was applied five years ago and the installers called it Monoply 3PF 1204 on their spec sheet. It looked and felt like I was walking on hard fiberglass. According to the spec sheet a base coat of PC 107 emulsion is sprayed on and a fiber reinforcement sheet is brushed into the emulsion. After it sets another coat of emulsion is applied and chopped fiberglass strands are sprayed on. The final coat is a white reflective coating. I observed a few narrow cracks in the covering. The photo below shows the overspray on the HVAC unit. I didn't find much on the internet and the local company that installed it is gone. Does anyone have more knowledge about this? Thanks, Click to Enlarge 45.5 KB

I came across a panel where some of the circuit breaker handles were covered with duct tape. The panel was installed in a small retail building. The store manager told me the tape was there to prevent employees from turning off power to some circuits and not because the breakers were tripping. I recall that Mr. Hansen stated during a seminar that a circuit breaker can still trip in an overcurrent situation if the handle can't move. Do I remember that correctly?

I unintentionally shock-tested mine when I dropped it from a roof. It landed on a concrete walkway none the worse for wear. As others mentioned, it can have trouble focusing in low light. I find it can focus well on close-in subjects without having to switch to the macro function.

The IBC addresses the height differences in the floor surface at door thresholds in Section 1008.1.7. It states that a threshold in a sliding door can't exceed 3/4" and a threshold in other types of doors can't exceed 1/2". It furthers states that raised thresholds and floor level changes greater than 1/4" shall be beveled with a slope not greater than 1:2.

With that deck hatch in place, does the window still provide the ventilation requirements for the room?

Thanks for the fungus ID Mike. The property had drainage problems and the crawl space looked like it had been been wet for the 10 years since the house was built. This was a pre-offer inspection on a million-dollar property close to Microsoft. There were at least four competing bids on the house in spite of its problems.

I found this growth in a wet crawl space. It looks spidery, vein-like. I thought it was more interesting than the dark, sometimes fuzzy, splotches I usually see. Click to Enlarge 57.13?KB Click to Enlarge 58.96?KB

Here's an example of a winter day to which Mike writes. Viewed from the roof of a building, Seattle's iconic symbol is socked by drizzling rain and fades into the cloud cover. Still better that snow. Click to Enlarge 41.8 KB

Irrigation systems are outside the scope of the inspections I perform, but I will verbally pass on to some home buyers the problems I've seen them cause to buildings. I believe many home owners overuse them. They set the timers for night time and forget about them. I have seen standing water in crawl spaces from overuse or defective systems. Besides observing the sprinkler heads, I advise them to watch for vegetation that will grow and deflect water back to the building. Blair www.axiombuildinginspections.com

I liked the article. It was simple and direct. As usual with posted technical articles, someone who purports to be a greater expert on the subject muddies the waters with dissenting views expressed in the comments section. And in this case, it gets a little rude. The author is described as a licensed Truth-in-Sale Housing Evaluator. Is that what folks in Minnesota call a home inspector?

Ok, so it's not really a flying buttress. But the curved chimney addition looks like one. The curved part rises from a basement fireplace. The bricks don't match so it's not original, but the addition is old enough to be unlined. It just looks odd and I haven't seen something like this before. Click to Enlarge 67.15 KB

A tankless heater is not an option. There's no gas service available and the electric service is just 125 amps. Kurt, you've piqued my interest. I'll keep tuned.

Although my question pertains to a water heater, the subject is more closely related to electrical. I would like to be able to turn power on and off remotely to an electric water heater in a vacation rental condo that I own. I have WiFi at the condo and I think there should be some kind of device that switches power when accessed online. I have gaps between renters where I would like to save on power consumption and it's too far away for me to switch off in person. I searched online but I didn't find what I was looking for. Do any of you techie types know of such a WiFi receiver/switch that is relatively easy to install in the water heater's power supply? Thanks,

The baptismal tub in this 4-year old church is located on the second floor. The water is fed through jets in the sidewalls of the fiberglas tub. There are no control valves in the room. The water is turned on with a lever type valve in the supply line one floor below. Water runs through an electric in-line heater on its way to the tub. Is there a regulation that requires control valves to be in the same room as the fixture? There is an opening in the wall behind the blind on the left so the congregation can watch from their stadium style seating. Click to Enlarge 49.11 KB