MPdesign

One more vote here for probable original design issues based upon it all looking new. I testified against an architect in the past who built a small church. The full finished basement was not-usable because of HVAC and sprinkler lines could not be installed because not enough clearance in the hallways. Of course, the basement is split level and he also didn't account for all the water that came through the wall and caused black mold throughout. He took this small church for $300,000 and left them with a usable main floor only. On the other hand, my primary reason for doing inspection instead of construction (I was an electrical design builder for 13 years and grew up doing construction) is that trades no longer look out for each other. When I was a kid, the sheetrocker wouldn't cover up the electrical, etc.. These days, people put it where they are told and if they know it is wrong, they dont care and just do it because they aren't paid to do it any other way. Cheers

Large old cast iron steam tube boiler (1960s). It is not insulated - and there are two of them and they cause A LOT of heat. Can they be insulated or will it cause issues?

Click to Enlarge 17.51 KB The problem does appear to be at the splice plate - in several locations - on the same side. Perhaps that side had tension on it during installation causing poor seating? What do you think Douglas?

I agree with Marc, red wire nuts just don't take 6 wires. Immediate action required - add a few pigtails and maybe another j-box. On having all the GFCI recepts on one circuit: I would note in the report that kitchens and baths are required, in new construction, to have separate dedicated feeds. They do not have separate feeds in this house, but this does not represent a life-safety issue that requires immediate action. It only represents likely nuisance tripping in the future such as when brewing coffee and drying your hair. I would recommend they add a separate circuit - if desired - but with no required cost.

It is in non-residential work. When feeding electrical in say, a plant ceiling, or a building floor to floor; then instead of using conduit and wire, they sometimes use bus duct. It is really copper bars in a metal case with attachment points every once in a while for disconnects (disconnects made for that particular bus duct only). The best use of it is in a factory ceiling because they always get new equipment which needs different power needs - then they just change out the bus duct disconnect and run power down to the equipment... instead of... running new wire all the back to the panel. changing the breaker, demo'ing the old pipe and wire, etc... I know - I know.. This is a residential forum mostly. But I like you guys better.

Bus duct re-torque I know that older big panels can be taken apart and all connections checked (to solve hot spots shown in infra-red), but what about bus duct?

oooo... Where would I find a date code on the windows? Is that normal - that is a new one for me. On most storefronts? Very interesting!

I have an issue that the property tax data, prior reports, everything shows 2006 - but the roof looks like it may be 1997 stamped and the HVAC manufacture date (they could have installed old equipment) definitely shows 1998.

How do I read age from this printed on the roof? 1997 correct? Click to Enlarge 26.41 KB

Thank you gentlemen.

I am just trying to get this right so that I now myself - 100%. As far as I can tell, if it is residential in size or look, and has a Fan with heat only, it can be a FAU or Furnace Fan with heat and cooling coil = FAU, Furnace, or I prefer "fan coil with gas (or electric) heat" fan with or without heat or cooling but 100% outside air = MAU Unit that doesn't look like a furnace (commercial) with fan (with or without heat and cooling coils) = AHU I see fannie and freddie using the term FAU (Forced Air Unit) which I had never heard before last year... I am just trying to learn the correct terminology myself. Being from the south, I called cooling towers, water towers for years - only to get called out as an idiot later when I went up north (for good reason) where they have actual water towers on roofs.

What is the real difference in these: #1 in construction #2 in use FAU forced air unit FCU Fan coil unit Furnace, Fan coil unit with gas heat AHU Air Handling Unit MAU Makeup Air Unit I have my own thoughts - but I want to make sure they are correct. Thank you gentlemen.

How do you tell the difference between Barrier and Drainage EIFS while on site?

I went a few places (CVS, Walgreens, Public) and reviewed similar installations. There are no weep holes as just posted. Correct installations do appear to use pan flashing as just posted. I have not seen head flashing on any of them, although I believe that it should be there. Thank you gentlemen.

yes, between the bottom of the window and the EIFS

I am looking at EIFS and fixed commercial windows with gaskets. Do/should these windows have weep holes? I know that this shot shows the window under a covered walkway but they are also on the exterior uncovered. Click to Enlarge 45.78 KB

Just to recheck, Is there anything wrong with aluminum wiring being used on devices rated for Cu/Al? No special pigtails or anything - all aluminum.

I owe you a coke. Thanks! They have a 15 year warranty. There is no way it will last that long. Okay - hold on a minute. I am looking up glass mat to learn more about it and I see what is called glass mat boards. Please confirm that you are not talking about boards (I'm sure you aren't - but just rechecking). This is roll roofing- about the thickness of felt. Thanks!

This appears to be layers of roofing felt with most of the roll overlapped except for the last 8" of the sheet. Then it is cool coat mopped. If anyone has any actual data on what this type of roof actually is, please let me know. I have seen thousands of roofs and the above is a pretty good description of what it really is.... Believe it or not - they have a warranty on it. Click to Enlarge 63.45 KB Click to Enlarge 35.48 KB Click to Enlarge 47.12 KB Click to Enlarge 37.16 KB Click to Enlarge 75.31 KB

How do I read the age from this printed on the roof? If possible... Click to Enlarge 3.25?KB

Perhaps a paragraph mentioning that these are required to be replaced by Code when the receptacle is replaced; but we recommend replacement as a safety concern. I have learned a lot here. Thank you gentleman.

Thank you gentleman. What I look at is generally require to replaced immediately, especially if I label it as safety concern. So, if I recommend it as a safety concern, it is usually translated into an immediate requirement. I work for a few larger firms and one of them is requiring costs for replacement of all GFCI above counter. It doesn't sound like there is any code requirement for apartment building retrofit that anyone is aware of. Thanks again. I value your opinions.

older apartment buildings - GFCI over sink Are you calling out to replace all recepts with GFCI over the kitchen counter?

Thanks for the heads up on the pic names. I will have to change that... The structure is actually cast in place with caste in place columns 16' on center and the terra cotta are not structural.

It is improper because it does not protect people and equipment. #1) The wire is not protected and can overheat because the breaker protecting it will allow a higher than rated current - causing overheating and failure. #2) The equipment requires a breaker of a certain size to protect it from pulling a load higher than designed - which could also cause overheating, arcing, and failure of the equipment. #3) I *believe* that the lug is only rated for one wire. ditto for safety. overheating leading to breakdown of insulation and wiring leading to arcing and yada yada yada....