John Bubber

Encapsulation is not the solution for all wet, leaking crawlspaces. St Clair Shores MI, crawlspace-wall bowing in, multiple exterior gaps, cracks which was why and where the water entered and puddled on floor. http://picasaweb.google.com/10104903458 ... 9188493442 Same house, some deteriorated-disintegrated exterior blocks http://picasaweb.google.com/10104903458 ... 3328086770 The rest of this photo album, click each to enlarge if you like http://picasaweb.google.com/10104903458 ... Crawlspace For those homeowners who have THESE types of problems, they obviously need exterior waterproofing as NO encapsulation would stop-prevent further water from entering and would not stop-prevent further deterioration of blocks, wall. Another point is, seems most if not all of the interior basement drainage system companies only 'n lone supposed solution for every leaky basement or crawl is, an interior water diverting system. These self proclaimed experts rarely if ever take the time to correctly and honestly diagnose, determine how/where the water is actually entering. They don't seem to care or understand what occurs on the outside. That is incompetence, negligence.

hydraulic cement,then thick mastic/tar and visqueen,backfill with gravel

http://picasaweb.google.com/10104903458 ... roofing41# Just another incompetent-moronic inside system installed. Duh, the CAUSE of the cracks and walls bowing in and leaks and mold etc are on the OUTSIDE/against-the-walls and so DUH, installing this GARBAGE w/some beams or carbon straps or wall anchors does not ever remove any of the causes,does not stop the stupid water from WHERE IT`s ENTERING, thus won`t stop-prevent mold,efflorescence etc. WASTE of over $10,000. The inside system jokers got their money and they`re looooooong gone as Ernie Harwell would say. http://www.lrb.usace.army.mil/AmherstSo ... hotos.html Pic`s 1-2-3 LATERAL PRESSURE CAUSING step-crack, causing vertical crack, causing top of basement wall to bow inward 9 inches. (pilasters failed to brace wall)

http://picasaweb.google.com/10104903458 ... roofing36# Umm, wall is bowing in. Clay soil and possibly underground roots causing wall to bow in, caused exterior-cracks and cracked parging which then allows water to enter block wall which then causes mold and quite a few will get efflorescence. Those exterior cracks also allow soil-gases to enter,termites and other insects can also get in. Yet again, another example of inside system companies incompetence. Misrepresenting many homeowners actual problems for SELF GAIN. Each wall anchor likely cost $500-$1,000. Wall should have been hand dug outside, get all the clay etc off the wall....waterproof the wall and backfill w/all gravel.....STILL needs exactly that. So who gained? Only the inside system knothead. Younger couple recently bought this house,were told the inside system and sump was just fine,was all that was needed....really? http://picasaweb.google.com/10104903458 ... rproofing# Again, misrepresenting what was causing the cracks and misrepresenting how-where the water was actually entering for self-gain. So buyers stuck with a BILL to correctly repair/waterproof the actual-problems on the outside! Idiots. You have to stop the water from WHERE its actually entering to stop MOLD etc. Inside system=waste of money. Who profited? Yeah. And where are they now,wheres that bunch O chtt Lifetime guarantee? Unfair Sales Practices? You bet! http://www.indiananewscenter.com/news/83022467.html 2 families....and another supposed Lifetime guarantee. Another buyer gets screwed. Was told NEW driveway seller paid for would solve leaky basement....pfftttt. You can`t SOLVE the problem without knowing what the problem(s) IS,you have to find/identify how-where the water is ACTUALLY getting in! Jesus Kristmas people,wake up. http://picasaweb.google.com/10104903458 ... roofing14# NEW driveway poured atop old.....plus someone put an underground drain in and pipe plus seller caulked/tarred along edge of house and new driveway AND...painted inside wall(Drylok shtt)...still leaked,more efflorescence etc. The photos PROVE,SHOW how-where the water first got into the hollow blocks. Pouring a new driveway or raising and sloping the grade and extending downspout extensions 2 miles away does not,has not EVER identified/determined ANYONE`s actual problem and has not solved/repaired the actual problem/existing defect. Couple of home inspectors who 'get it'.... http://www.nachi.org/forum/f23/basement ... tem-42321/ ....HI is right on the money, says/knows...homeowner was ripped off,exterior excavation needed to properly waterproof.....Building inspector INEPT etc 2nd last paragraph he`s right on the money where he says...in his opinion 'Internal weeping tile installation is not a good solution...as the messy and costly installation may affect the structural intergrity of the basement floor slab AND does nothing to stop further deterioration of the outside of the foundation walls' http://homes.winnipegfreepress.com/inde ... icle&id=24 ...'may affect strucural integrity'....something like this $15,000 http://www.wwmt.com/news/edwards-25979- ... ement.html 'further deterioration'...something like this http://picasaweb.google.com/10104903458 ... roofing09# photos 3-12

Many who install inside systems refer to it as.....bright wall. http://www2.snapfish.com/slideshow/Albu ... _111847456 They`ll attach it along bottom as in picture and sometimes against most-all of the wall.This 'bright wall sheeting' doesn`t fix/repair/stop water from entering. What this sheeting DOES do is hide/conceal water/moisture that is entering through the wall and it hides the actual CONDITION of the wall. When placed along the bottom courses of block walls it`ll conceal blocks that either have or can shift/bow inward or deteriorate.It hides mold,efflorescence on those blocks. It also provides a nice wet/damp breeding area between sheeting and wall, for insects,mold etc....it sure as chtt does! If you look at picture posted, the inside system and sheeting has not/did not STOP the water from where its STILL entering.Like most inside co`s, they do not correctly and honestly diagnose/identify where the water is entering. Click pic`s 11,12, see water/stains UP HIGH? Water is first entering through exterior openings in/around the CHIMNEY and,below ground THROUGH cracks/loose-cracked parging on the exterior of block wall...yep. Inside chumps want to HIDE stuff like this http://www2.snapfish.com/slideshow/Albu ... _111847456 http://www2.snapfish.com/slideshow/Albu ... _111847456 They want to hide bottom courses that are/have deteriorated and which THEY do not fix/repair. Someone thinks they know more then you call me,tired of the BS in THIS business. Mark Anderson 313-881-8035

One more point please,ADDING soil,especially clay can-could CAUSE problems. http://www.helium.com/items/1022235-pla ... ised-patio? page=3 John Mann, SE ...'Many contractors that install patios do not understand the effect of a new raised patio on the adjacent foundation wall' ...'what may be considered relatively small increases in backfill can cause large increases in lateral pressure AGAINST the WALL' 'Additional WEIGHT(of ANYTHING) placed on top of soil backfill causes additional lateral pressure against the foundation wall' Hence, adding soil,especially clay and/or concrete or pouring concrete on top of existing concrete can-could cause crack(s) in basement wall and subsequent leaks/seepage or cause wall to bow inward. 'Some' recommend/actually give as a SOLUTION for wet-leaky basements to REGRADE with 10-20 wheelbarrows of CLAY http://www.weinspectforyou.com/03-07%20newsletter.pdf This is nonsense and incompetent. Further they say,'it may be advisable to INSTALL a hydrostatic pressure relief system' and go on and claim for an average size basement these systems cost $2,500-$4,000. This is not correct. Most charge between $7,000-$17,000 or more for inside systems w/sump. Lets get the facts/numbers straight on this please. Should not be recommending anything when you don`t understand much, if anything on THIS-subject. HI`s are not experts on this-subject, sorry but it is the truth, believe what ya like. On the other hand,here is an HI who understands more than others and understands more than many inside system owners-salespeople.More we understand the more helpful to homeowners we`ll be. http://www.winnipegfreepress.com/index. ... icle&id=24 He talks about FIRST, identifying-diagnosing the problem(s). This is crucial. Last para......'Internal weeping tile installation is NOT a good solution... ...as the messy and COSTLY installation may affect the structural integrity of the basement floor slab AND does NOTHING to stop further deterioration of the outside of the foundation walls' Something like what happened here.......... -Wall Collapses During Basement Leak Repair Job http://www.wwmt.com/news/edwards-25979- ... ement.html $15,000...............broke up (j-hammred) edges of basement FLOOR

Wet/leaky basements. MOST importantly one needs to correctly IDENTIFY how/where the water is getting in.FIND the actual problem(s). Say again whether some want to believe it or not,adding SOIL has not, does not identify the problem(s),doesn`t fix/repair anything. Some HI`s concur, least for the most part. http://www.nachi.org/forum/f23/somethin ... dex28.html http://www.nachi.org/forum/f23/somethin ... dex29.html 30 years in this business with zero complaints. Haven`t said ALL homeowners leaky basements are due to cracks in walls or openings above grade....no. Example of 'some other' potential-possible problems and true solution which again is not raising-sloping the grade. Some homeowners will need to snake the lateral line.......or possibly replace part or all of it due to a possible break-crack-collapse http://www.msdgc.org/downloads/wib/comm ... sement.pdf PG 2. Fixing the Problem......'fixing your wet basement may be as easy as RODDING your drainage or lateral line'........... PG 4. Broken or Clogged Lateral Lines/Sewer Line Backups.....'IF your lateral line is clogged or broken,water in the line has nowhere to go and can backup into your basement.....groundwater can seep into a lateral line through cracks,separated joints etc... As for gutters,sure, don`t want water coming off roof and soaking-saturating bricks etc. Been to PA and noticed quite a few homes have NO gutters. This could obviously cause problems/leaks but has nothing with the other most likely reasons basement leak. Archived story, what happens all over http://www.postbulletin.com/newsmanager ... 324782&z=2 Was titled.......LOOKING For the CAUSE In part said, "Evidence showed a tremendous amount of rainwater got into the CITY`s sanitary sewer system....the system is SUPPOSED to be a closed system. Rainwater got in and CAUSED the system to overrun which LED TO backups in at least 106 homes.Water got in the sewers a number of ways....through leaky manholes,cracked pipes or improperly connected private drains.Any of those pipes-public or private-can crack,be infiltrated by roots or develop leaky joints that grow and admit water" Heavy Rains Overwhelm Pipes,Flood Basements.... http://www.jsonline.com/news/milwaukee/48646722.html ...'Caused backups in hundreds of basements' Explanation from CITY officials....aging sanitary and storm sewer unable to handle the deluge.......massive amount of water seeped through cracks in the sewer LATERALS and main pipes,then flowed back into homes,often combining w/sewer water.Any BLOCKAGE in the laterals from homes to the main pipes compounded the problem' Flint MI, Faulty sewer system, lengthy lawsuits against city http://abclocal.go.com/wjrt/story?secti ... id=6872295 And so problems like this have nothing to do with cracks in walls or open mortar joints etc but also have nothing to do with raising the grade,longer downspouts etc. And as i stated, some folks who have an existing sump may simply need an adjustment or sump replacement or snake tiles that empty into the pit or for some, they may need to drill/create holes in PIT-WALL.....just under the thickness of the concrete basement floor so water that can accumulate under-the-floor can get into the pit faster instead of potentially backing up and then rising up through floor cracks or sometimes up through the cold joint/cove. They won`t/don`t need ANY inside perimeter system but are very often told/lied to that they do. Then there are some, like this lady who has already spent $20,000 for an INSIDE SYSTEM,new floor and STILL leaks. http://www.wqad.com/news/8onyourside/wq ... 7966.story Yep, alot of fraud/incompetence on this subject http://www.chicagotribune.com/business/ ... 4261.story Scroll down a tad to.... WATERPROOFING ...."Be prepared to weed through an array of proposals from waterproofing contractors--A LOT of them BOGUS. Done right, basement waterproofing is an exterior operation...." That`s when people do not have a basement backup or possible interior leaky plumbing fixture or condensation problem etc. Have to correctly define/identify the homeowners problem(s) and most who only install inside systems do NOT do this...they are most often the BOGUS ones. They sure are. BEWARE basement waterproofers Inside system company bs`d homeowner into installing an inside system,over $14,000.....still leaks http://www.moneypit.com/ask-tom-leslie/ ... ofers.html Have SEEN this happen repeatedly and for many years. No, do not agree w/every single word-assumption where they later talk about 'drainage', have said why. Is right about being TAKEN by a COMMON SCAM (inside system co`s) and certainly about suing the company in last paragraph,yep. More on those who love to install INSIDE systems State Wants to Shut Down Waterproofing Businesses http://www.theindychannel.com/station/2 ... etail.html Bridgetown Man Has Problems With Leaking Basement http://www.local12.com/content/troubles ... Ld2JQ.cspx Over 70 complaints,inside system company http://www.doj.state.nh.us/publications ... ckson.html Target 11 Investigates Everdry Waterproofing http://www.wpxi.com/video/15442125/detail.html Have talked w/this lady,she`s out about $10,000 'Basement Systems' installation. http://www.flickr.com/photos/28992838@N07/2708820850/ HO says, would not recommend.... http://www.flickr.com/photos/28992838@N07/2708000265/ still leaks, some mold and efflorescence Do you see the GAP,the space between floor and wall? Radon gas/other gases can easily enter here,sure can. Also, on block walls, most inside system companies will drill HOLES in bottom blocks and leave them OPEN! So thats more openings where radon gas can enter,they CREATE more openings and the potential for more radon to enter a house-basement. How radon enters your house http://www.epa.gov/radon/pubs/physic.html#Character "Radon gas can enter a home from the soil THROUGH cracks in concrete floors and walls,floor drains,sump pumps,CONSTRUCTION JOINTS and tiny CRACKS or PORES in HOLLOW-BLOCK WALLS..." A-K....how radon enters D. FLOOR-WALL joints And when there are exterior cracks, loose-cracked parging etc in block walls, these inside companies do NOT repair/waterproof them. The exterior walls are not, were not waterproofed when built. Parging and damproofing is not 'waterproofing'. Do these companies who install inside systems explain to all HO`s they are creating more openings,EASIER access for radon/other gases to enter the basement? This guy gets 'some' of this subject.... Waterproofing Foundations http://www.askthebuilder.com/NH058_-_Wa ... ions.shtml 2nd para....there is a SIGNIFICANT difference between damproofing and waterproofing

Here is a elderly lady who ONLY got water at floor-wall joint at/near the back corner/driveside. Other`s recommendations to her as a solution were to caulk along driveway and house and to add a long downspout extension. If any care to see/learn then click this slideshow or individual pics. http://www2.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare ... 111847456/ Pic`s 2,3,4 Long downspout extension and caulking along drive. First, this doesn`t correctly and competently IDENTIFY where/how/why water enters the basement,nor does this fix/repair the actual problems. By the way, Insta Dry and Everdry also gave her estimates,they tried to bs her and told her she had a supposed hydrostatic pressure problem under the basement floor and only installing an inside system w/sump pump would solve this supposed problem. Est`s were $10,000 and $15,000. My est was $975. Pic`s 8-14 This is why/where/how water enters her block wall at corner,these cracks/gap ARE the PROBLEMS....period. Downspout/caulking etc did not repair/waterproof these cracks thus,she continued to leak and more mold and efflorescence grew on some of the inside blocks/wall. IF....she had hired any company to install an inside system then THAT also would NOT have stopped water from entering those exterior cracks and the mold/efflorescence would have continued to grow inside because they would not have stopped water from where it was entering. To state/recommend to any homeowner that they can solve their/most leaky basements by raising-sloping the grade/longer downspouts etc is,always has been incompetent. Please explain how raising the grade/longer downspouts identifies how/where water is getting in basements? Does raising the grade/longer downspouts identify whether or not there is a crack/loose-cracked parging on the outside of a block wall? Does it identify whether or not water/rain is first entering above ground through open mortar joints or through/under basement windows? Does it identify whether or not there is a blockage in the lateral line? And again, does raising the grade/longer downspouts etc fix/repair/waterproof existing cracks-rod holes etc? Does it snake a possible blockage in a lateral line? Does it tuckpoint open mortar joints or seal gaps under-around basements windows? And so on. This lady in Eastpointe MI bought this house about 6 months ago, was told by seller and HI there were no previous or existing leaks/problems/cracks. http://www2.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare ... 111847456/ Pic 2 See tar someone put along driveway-house? THIS does not repair/waterproof existing crack(s),rod holes etc etc etc. 3,4 Underground root,hairline vertical crack where root hits basement wall. Does mujacking slabs/grading etc remove exterior roots or lateral soil pressure that 'causes' many cracks and subsequent leaks? Pic 8 inside view of vertical crack that was patched and painted over to try and hide/conceal an existing flaw-leak. Thats fraud. 9 they also put a cove along bottom of wall,this also does repair/waterproof any cracks or remove exterior cause(s) of cracks. See water stain? Other pics, another leak/problem that was also pathced and painted over on the inside to try and hide-conceal. Lateral pressure,pic`s..... http://www.lrb.usace.army.mil/AmherstSo ... hotos.html Pic 1. Lateral pressure CAUSING typical 45 degree stair-step in block basement wall (inside system was installed,it does NOT remove-relieve exterior soil pressure,roots,concrete slabs,footings nor does it waterproof exterior cracks etc in block walls) 2. Lateral pressure CAUSING vertical crack in basement wall (injections,patch jobs do not remove-relieve exterior pressure) 3. Lateral pressure CAUSING top of basement wall to bow inward 9 inches...pilasters failed to brace wall. Scroll down about 1/2 way -A Little crack................. http://www.plickandassociates.com/newsletters/Mar06.pdf About 1/2 way down ---Basement Wall Damage http://www.fairfaxcounty.gov/dpwes/publ ... neclay.htm ...Cause,Resolution 6th paragraph......... http://dwightyoderbuilders.com/concrete.cfm Backfill with......gravel and why.

You/others need to find how/where water is getting in. Need to correctly identify the problem(S). Grading/adding soil and sloping it away does NOT identify how/where water is getting into the basement nor does it fix/repair whatever your problem(S) turn out to be. Other than some sort of interior leaky plumbing fixture,most basements leak due to one or more of the following......... -The wall(s) has crack(s),loose-cracked parging,one or more open-leaky rod holes,opening where a service-line enters etc -Opening(s) above ground level such as...open mortar joints,loose siding,openings/gaps in-around-under basement windows and doors -A possible blockage/clog in the lateral line between house and street,possible problem on CITY`s end/beyond the street. Or if there is an existing sump pump and pit,a possible need to adjust sump or replace it or possible need to snake tile(s) that empty into pit or, need to drill holes/create openings in pit-wall. Raising the grade/lowering the grade,extending downspout extensions 1 mile away,mudjacking slabs etc does not IDENTIFY the above problems-possibilities NOR does raising the grade etc fix/repair those problems. Further explain, raising the grade etc does not waterproof an existing crack,loose cracked exterior parging (a defect-flaw) in a basement wall. Raising the grade etc does not tuckpoint possible open mortar joints,does not caulk aroun-replace window/doors, does not snake-rod possible blockage in a lateral line or tile that empties into pit,does not adjust-replace a faulty-old sump and so on. Here is a homeowner (one of many) who TRIED raising/sloping the grade and also dug down and poured concrete against the basement wall where water was coming through a crack,didn`t do squat,never does. http://www2.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare ... 111847456/ play slideshow or click individual pic`s Here is a block wall, they often have EXTERIOR cracks and/or loose-cracked parging on the OUTSIDE of the wall, this is where water first enters into the hollow blocks and is most often only seen inside basement at-along the FLOOR-WALL joint. Raising the grade etc does NOT repair/waterproof the existing exterior cracks....the cracks/openings are THE problem,period. http://www2.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare ... 111847456/ Underground ROOTS against basement wall CAUSED exterior cracks in wall which then allowed water,insects to enter.Inside drain tile/pressure relief systems and/or raising the grade etc does not remove the CAUSE of the cracks/leaks,does not repair/waterproof these cracks http://www2.snapfish.com/slideshow/Albu ... _111847456 Adding soil,clay especially can INCREASE the lateral pressure AGAINST a basement wall,can cause problems. Your water problems in basement should have been correctly and honestly identified BEFORE you made offer on house and imo, the inspector was incompetent/negligent on supposed-solution/recommendation