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n/a29

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    Entrepreneur - Right now Appraisals and Home Inspections(Way Secondary To Appraisals)

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  1. I won't do pools and I disclose them in my contract, because I don't have a clue on how to inspect them properly and I feel that trying would be a disservice to my clients. I would love to learn about them so I can provide pool inspections with my services. However, I suspect it would take quite a while for me to get to that point of knowledge. I will keep reading your posts, Norm.
  2. Mike, does this squabble look familiar? Looks like one of my topics I wished I had backed out of long before it got ugly. Advice: State your opinion respectfully. Dodge the bullets on your way out if it starts getting ugly. Never look back. A smoking gun doesn't always "win" the battle. Sip on a good homebrew and relax. It's all good... :~)
  3. In just the little bit of inspection experience I have had, I have seen leaks like this seal themselves just as Chad mentions. You crud over a leak enough and it will hold like chewing gum. If it isn't a high pressure leak, which obviously it is not, then the corrosion often times will hide the signs of the original leaking. Good call Chad!
  4. Yeah, it looks like it is leaking or there is a leak elsewhere that is dripping on this part that is corroding because of it. I know that sounds too simple, but it is the only logical reason I can think of without seeing more.
  5. I concur with Chad. Looks fine to me.
  6. Download Attachment: SV4000902.JPG 511.62 KB Download Attachment: SV4000912.JPG 637.46 KB Had my first encounter with the FPE panel that I had never heard about until this topic on TIJ. In additon to the inherent problems of the box type itself, I found a double tap on fuse #8, neutrals and grounds on same bus bar, debris in the bottom of the box, bare wires close to the casing, etc. etc. etc. Coming from the subpanel, there was a 240 volt wire going to the AC unit that had been spliced by twisting the wire together and wrapped with electrical tape. It should be no surprise that the wire had already melted and had fire hazard signs written all over it. Some people are extremely lucky!!!
  7. Making an attic "livable space" is a very bad idea, regardless of how you vent the exhaust vents. That attic needs to be highly vented for many reasons.
  8. Well, that's very safe, in addition to being exceptionally self-serving. Having suffered through 120 hours of fire science class in the mid 80's, we proved it wrong on a daily basis. Unfortuneately, I don't have the paperwork available; I threw it all in a dumpster about 15 years ago. That's OK; those inclined to frenzy are usually dis-inclined to believe research that doesn't reinforce preconceived notions. Overheating wires, creating fires, or otherwise causing unsafe conditions was the sole intent of our lab sessions; no one was ever able to start an electrical fire, and voltage drop >40% was necessary to even begin to make something warm. Wild hi voltage sparks were sent through tissue paper & dust, & getting something to ignite required extra exceptional efforts. #14 AWG wires were subjected to sustained loads of 30 amps for periods of hours on end without ever getting noticeably warm. In one of the experiments, we wrapped #14 in tissue, wrapped that in newspaper, wrapped that in insulation, then placed the whole thing in a sealed box w/ an interior temperature of 140degF, then subjected it to another 24 hours of continuous 30 amp load. After 24 hours, the wire was not noticeably warm beyond the 140degF ambient. Being unable to start really good fires was bummin' everyone out. Point being, the NEC is an exceptionally conservative document, & if one is within bounds on stated rules, one is very safe. Applying freakout status to minute excesses noted only in FPN's is conjecture bordering on silliness. Getting out a bullhorn only serves one's need to be loud, not educational. I agree with you Kurt and Chad. The voltage drop is not nearly as much of an issue as current drop/load, which is protected by the breakers/fuses. Total circuit voltage will fluctuate by the percentages noted previously. In a parallel circuit, which is how residential circuits are wired, for all intents and purposes, voltage is constant across each parallel leg. Only the current drop, and ultimately...the voltage drop, will very (in theory) based on the resistance of the device it is passing through, i.e., a wall outlet, a wall oulet powering a toaster, or a common fixed wired light, or a light attached to a ceiling fan. All these devices will present different resistances to the circuit, but only the current is supposed to fluctuate with the different resistances. In theory, the total circuit leg voltage will be constant. The voltage "drop" across different devices will vary upon those current and resistance changes in the attached device. V (Voltage) = I (Current) X R (Resistance) However, there are other factors that will allow voltage to fluctuate as Mike, Chad, and Kurt have indicated, such as the service supply from the energy company. 10-15% voltage drop across a device or in one parallel leg is nothing to be alarmed about at all. Current drop is much more of a concern and if there was a problem with excessive current drop/load, then your breakers and fuses would be tripping and blowing indicating a problem. Download Attachment: circuit.bmp 983.55 KB
  9. Download Attachment: Soffit_Vented_Fan.bmp 922.14 KB Builders in my area used to do this and also vent the exhaust fans into the open attic space. Since I became the municipal code inspector, this is no longer being done. WHK...just save yourself the grief and vent to the true outside as the code states.
  10. Dan, I agree that those HI's out there like yourself should not be "compared" to green HI's like myself. I think the idea of testing and licensing is due to so many new HI's coming into the industry. How else can an HI's knowledge, experience, and credibility be evaluated in order to apply some regulation to the industry. I can see your point how it might not be fair to make those of you who created the HI industry "face off", so to speak, with a newbie inspector like myself, but it is the only way to keep all inspectors on a level playing field, adhering everyone to the same standards. I am sure you have passed the testing and other licensing criteria with flying colors, so really, ask yourself, is it that big of a deal to take the tests, etc. for the industry regulation criteria? The only thing that would really bite in your situation would be having to pay for taking the test, etc. Maybe instead of grandfathering the seasoned HI's and waving the necessity of licensing, etc., maybe the seasoned veteran HI's should not be charged the testing fees, etc. I think most veteran HI's would be ok with having to take the test and get licensed if it didn't cost them anything to provide proof of their knowledge and experience. What do you think?
  11. Very interesting! I figured it would have to be something along the lines of cost or efficiency. Well, then there is the last part too. [:-timebm] Thanks Chad.
  12. Mike, I am curious to know what brand, model, etc. this unit is. You say this is only the 5th or 6th AC unit you have seen. Does it never get warm enough for an AC in Washington???
  13. I'm curious why these are still not being made. I like the idea of being able to make your own gas. Is it expensive to run one of these and make the gas compared to other energy methods maybe? Was this just used as a back up method of utility when it was being used?
  14. That is a very worthwhile thought. It is entirely correct. Thanks Kurt. Humble pie doesn't taste too bad. [:-paperbag]
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