barlyhop

Yes, I was talking about brick veneer, so, you are recommending complete replacement of these lintels? There is no suitable permenent repair for this problem in lieu of lintel replacement? I guess that from now on, I will be spending more time evaluating the mortar over lintels. How does moisture enter the masonry on a full wall of brick with 2 foot overhangs? Most problem areas seem to be over windows which have only a foot or two of masonry above them and most always the deep soffits above them? Thanks to all for your input! Randy

The "plugging" that I am referring to is in the very small drain holes cut into the cement crock. The (2) openings were crudely cut into the sides of the crock and were approx. 2" X 3". Large river rock had allready plugged the small holes one week after installation. It would seem that over time, much of the gravel base under the new slab would find it's way into the crock creating a hollow beneath the floor, possible erosion under the floor and eventually the slab will fail. Secondly, the drain holes were cut below the "high" float level which will result in continuous pump operation with little opportunity to cycle and cool down when it rains. I rarely see any "make-shift" sump systems here. We are serious about foundation drainage here in "Lake Country" Wisconsin. Full basements are the norm. Basement repair companies are very busy here as for some reason alot of basements here have moisture issues. More and more homeowners are finishing their basements now a days, it's the most cost effective way to add living space. This particular basement will never be finished, it's a small area just large enough for laundry, etc. I was just dissapointed to see a new system installed in such a temporary and poorly designed fashion considering the proximity to the large river at back lot line. Randy

I seldom use my TIF 8800 anymore. I just tried using it recently to pinpoint a gas leak near a furnace. The "geiger" no longer sounds properly and all I get is a steady squelch no matter how I adjust the sensitivity. The unit is fully charged and I just installed a new tip with no change in operation. The unit is 6 years old, do you think this might be repairable, an "over" charge of some kind...or? Any ideas would be appreciated here! I seldom test for leaks anymore due to liability, but it is nice to be able to pinpoint leaks when they are obvious. Thanks Randy

I could use some help recommending repairs regarding iron lintels above windows and doors. When there is a rusty and expanded lintel which is causing mortar joints to crack above the openings, what is the recommended repair? I have tried to find information with little success. Do these lintels need to remain open so as to drain properly or can they be caulked? Is the moisture entering above the lintel causing the rusting? Any information or direction would surely be appreciated! Thanks Randy

Yes, the pump did in fact pump water. I am quite sure though that this crock opening will fail due to plugging, lack of a drain tile and associated silt barrier. I told the buyer it is better than no sump at all, but barely. I also recommended that it be evaluated by a foundation expert.

To easily solve this equation, simply remove a couple of pieces of the baseboard molding and check for clearance. I would think that the minimum clearance should be verified in the dryer winter months with less expansion happening at this time.

My best guess is that these were installed to correct a condensation issue with the tank in humid weather. Could have just insulated the tanks, but this probably was done before the existance of ridgid insulation materials.

Perhaps the homeowner is trying to recapture the heat from the dryer before it exits the home??

Many times I find loose drywall tape at center and outside seams of cathedral ceilings in newer construction. Is this just poor workmanship by the drywaller or is it more of a heat circulation issue? These homes are in Wisconsin. Does it indicate a insulation or venting problem in the roof framing?? Help!!! Randy

I have been doing alot more bank owned homes in our present economy. One question keeps arizing with regards to boilers here in Wisconsin. Is it best to drain the system or just to add anti-freeze to the system? Many times I find burst pipes in so-called winterized systems here. One must assume that the utilities are locked off for non-payment, etc. and that the system will remain inoperative indefinitely. Thanks Randy

The home is 100 years old and had no original sump system. Recently, a portion of the basement floor had been coated with new concrete (presumably dirt floor) Someone?? installed a sump pump in the area. There is no drain tile entering the crock, the small 3"x 3" openings in the crock were plugged with 1" - 1.5" size river rock, which is beneath the new slab for drainage. Additionally, the drain holes were made below the high float level. I am assuming that this was an upsell to go with the new concrete floor. I reported that the system was likely to fail and improperly installed though I cannot determine the nessecity of the system to begin with? Is there anything else that should be stated or recommended to the buyer? The property also backs up to a large tributary, the Rock River. Thanks Randy