Jump to content
  • Write some text.

  • Welcome to The Inspector's Journal

    Thanks for visiting TIJ, the best on-line community of home and building inspectors. Consider registering to participate in the forums, contact our experts and authors directly, access downloads, and more. It's all free and we don't sell or share your information.

  • Recent Business Links

  • Recent Activity

    1. 1

      AI Is Starting to Say What We Can’t

      Hello Jason. I was thinking about the same topic couple days ago. So far I have come to the conclusion that there is couple of ways we could go about it and so far it is better to stay off and distant as much as we can if possible. Here is my experience: A techy customer got his report and put it into one of those services and He got numbers in 3 ranges: low , mid and high. He even called couple of contractors to compare prices and said that AI was off for couple hundred dollars. His deal felt thru because the sellers did not accept his repair request, his numbers were to high even in the low range. As for realtors I would not mind too much about them , trying to get numbers without killing the deal for themselves… We all know the low balls they try to pull off when they know the house committed suicide by itself. Another customer did the same thing after the repair request and negotiations and all that [ and repairs performed by Joe hold my beer ] , and He was short for a couple thousands on a defect that needed more repairs that the offered by sellers… Try to copy and paste a random summary of an inspection you have performed and ask google Gemini to give you an explanation followed by numbers and check in your local market if the numbers are off or not… I tried one summary and I got the impression that google numbers were about right; but I would not offer that option to a client , it is better that they do their own research; that way we are not the ones in the middle trying to inflate their expectations.
      Mercado_Robert in Report Writing

  • Posts

    • fenceanddeckconnection
      Low slope roof insulation question

      By fenceanddeckconnection · Posted

      For your 10x15 room with 2x8 trusses and 2x4 roof deck, use rigid foam board insulation between the trusses for excellent thermal performance. Add spray foam or fiberglass batts to fill gaps and improve air sealing. A vapor barrier is important to prevent moisture buildup before installing the ceiling. This method ensures energy efficiency and long-lasting comfort. Good luck with your renovation!  - Fence and Deck Connection
    • Tom Raymond
      FRP Roof Covering

      By Tom Raymond · Posted

      That's beautiful.
    • Chad Fabry
      FRP Roof Covering

      By Chad Fabry · Posted

      That's what they tell me. Boats and Corvettes seem to fair OK. It's recoatable, but not really easy to recoat. It requires thorough sanding followed by cleaning with acetone. (I already recoated it once becaue it was the wrong color) I figured the worst thing that can happen is it fails miserably. If that's the case, it'll make an excellent substrate for something else. 
    • Jim Katen
      FRP Roof Covering

      By Jim Katen · Posted

      And the gel coat is stable in UV light? 
    • JoeZeppy412
      Hi, I need help understanding the code for proper flue sizing for a furnace and hot water heater running to a common flue.

      By JoeZeppy412 · Posted

      HI, I could use some expert opinions. I need to replace my heating ducts due to age and corrosion to the point of giant holes in them. They existed for 50 years concealed behind a false wall in my basement. The furnace was replaced in the mid nineties but it appears they just connected to the existing flue. When I tore the wall out for remodeling, I discovered the corroded flue pipe. I'm looking at a 100,000 BTU Category 1 fan assisted Rheem furnace. The furnace outlet is 3 inches, which expands immediately to 4", does a dual 45 bend around the side of the furnace, into a 90, then expands into a 6" pipe, where you can already see signs of corrosion. It then does a 3 foot run, a 90 degree bend, then a 4 foot run to another 90 degree bend into to what was then an unlined masonry flue. The chimney flue rises around 20 feet. This is a single story ranch. The run past the 90 where it was behind the false wall is heavily corroded with numerous holes. It looks like heavy guage aluminum.  Parallel to the furnace flue is a 40,000 BTU natural drafted water heater with a 3" flue that runs in a straight line 9 feet, then turns a 90 into the flue.  I've just had chimney work done and they installed a 6" stainless steel flue liner terminating in a wye at the base of the flue. I now need to install replacement ductwork to attach to it.  To summarize, I need to vent: a 100,000 BTU Category 1 fan assisted Rheem furnace, which rises 3 feet 9 inches in a 9 foot run to the flue, with two 45s and a 90 bend. a 40,000 BTU natural draft water heater, which rises 2 feet in a 10 foot run, than a 90 into the flue. My "in stock" furnace flue options at Lowes or Home Depot are. 4" B vent 4", 5" or 6" C vent. I'm not against special ordering or going to an HVAC warehouse, if I know what it is I need. the surrounding material is concrete block on the walls, with wood floor joists and a rim joist overhead. I plan to enclose the vents in a finished bulkhead, which will be removable for inspection and service. I do not have 6" clearance to the joists. I could install a firestop on the joists if that's acceptable. I'm confident I can do the physical installation, but two or 3 days of reading through the NFPA code, with help translating from ChatGPT, and I'm not convinced I'm understanding any better what the code requirements for the flue pipe size are.  The chimney guys were nice enough to temporarily connect the existing ductwork to the new wye, but I need to get this replaced asap.

  • Tell a friend

    Love The Inspector's Journal? Tell a friend!
×
×
  • Create New...