Rich Rushing

From IRC 2003 P2803.6.1 Requirements of discharge pipe. The outlet of a pressure relief valve, temperature relief valve or combination thereof, shall not be directly connected to the drainage system. The discharge from the relief valve shall be piped full size separately to the outside of the building or to an indirect waste receptor located inside the building. In areas subject to freezing, the relief valve shall discharge through an air space, or by other approved means. The discharge shall be installed in a manner that does not cause personal injury or property damage and that is readily observable by the building occupants. The discharge from a relief valve shall not be trapped. The diameter of the discharge piping shall not be less than the diameter of the relief valve outlet. The discharge pipe shall be installed so as to drain by gravity flow and shall terminate atmospherically not more than 6 inches (152mm)above the floor. The end of the discharge pipe shall not be threaded. In another words... 6" or less (not more than 6" inches above the floor). The discharge ine cannot be discharged anywhere where it could cause injury or property damage. In my mind, if you have hot water pouring onto the garage floor and you walk into the garage with no shoes on... you may be injured. In additional to injury, property damage can and may occur. Property damage can and may be in the form or personal property as well as structural damage due to moisture being 'wicked' up. But to answer the question asked... it's 6" inches or LESS. Richard

Jerry, Not so... Here's how it should work: When a water heater is at rest, the tank will be filled with hot water (no need for the element to be on). When a hot water faucet is turned on in the home, hot water is taken from the top of the tank and cold water is again supplied at the bottom through the dip tube. The cold at the bottom of the tank activates the thermostat for the lower element. The lower element then comes on and heats the incoming cold water. The upper element will still be surrounded by hot water and will be satisfied. When hot water continues to be drawn, the tank will then be filled with cool water because the lower heating element will not be able to warm the water quickly enough as it comes in. After a while, the hot water will be drawn off up to the level of the upper thermostat. Now, both thermostats are calling for heat. Since only one element can operate at a time, the upper element has priority and will shut off the lower element. The upper element has priority because after the tank has run out of hot water, the upper element is the fastest way to replenish the hot water. Since the water is drawn off the top first, the upper element heats the water near the top of the tank. Once it heats the water in the top part of the tank, the thermostat will be satisfied and the upper element will shut off. The lower element now gets electricity and heats up the water in the lower two thirds of the tank. Under normal conditions, the lower element is in operation the majority of the time, although the upper element has priority. Rich Rushing

Erby, You're right, that one *IS* for wire. It does look almost identical to the sheet metal version. Do use plastic though... Rich

That instrument, manufactured by Starrett is designed to be a check-gauge for sheet metal and not wire sizes. Additionally, it is (as Mike pointed out) conductive---DO NOT USE inside an electrical panel. One way or the other, this can and may provide you with a fall in your career. You can cause contact issues that were not there before you monkeyed with the conductor to breaker connection, thus opening yourself up to liability. On top of that, your levitation skills may be enhanced by the ghostly apparition that your surviving spouse probably would not be able to identify. Go here to find the plastic type: http://www.professionalequipment.com/xq ... efault.htm Rich Rushing

Scott, Chad, I had one about two months ago that was a small home (twice-wide) with a list of $129,000. The buyers, nor I, had any indication of the type housing it was until I crawled this puppy. The exterior had heavy foliage that made the exterior and foundation wall simply not very visible or accessible. After finding out this was a manufactured home, I notified the buyers and the agent that was on-hand. Everyone was peeved after that-- the buyer because he was almost decieved and the agent because she obviously wasn't getting her commission.[^] Three days later I get an email telling me that the home had been reduced $45,000!!![:-eyebrow Needless to say, the buyer was quite happy that he didn't forego the inspection like he was going to... Rich

From the 2003 IRC. - R905.2 Asphalt shingles. The installation of asphalt shingles shall comply with the provisions of this section. - - R905.2.2 Slope. Asphalt shingles shall only be used on roof slopes of two units vertical in 12 units horizontal (2:12) or greater. For roof slopes from two units vertical in 12 units horizontal (2:12) up to four units vertical in 12 units horizontal (4:12), double underlayment application is required in accordance with Section R905.2.7. Richard R.

From the 2002 NEC. 250.142 Use of Grounded Circuit Conductor for Grounding Equipment. - (A) Supply-Side Equipment. A grounded circuit conductor shall be permitted to ground non–current-carrying metal parts of equipment, raceways, and other enclosures at any of the following locations: - - (1) On the supply side or within the enclosure of the ac service-disconnecting means - - (2) On the supply side or within the enclosure of the main disconnecting means for separate buildings as provided in 250.32(B) - - (3) On the supply side or within the enclosure of the main disconnecting means or overcurrent devices of a separately derived system where permitted by 250.30(A)(1) - (B) Load-Side Equipment. Except as permitted in 250.30(A)(1) and 250.32(B), a grounded circuit conductor shall not be used for grounding non–current-carrying metal parts of equipment on the load side of the service disconnecting means or on the load side of a separately derived system disconnecting means or the overcurrent devices for a separately derived system not having a main disconnecting means. - - Exception No. 1: The frames of ranges, wall-mounted ovens, counter-mounted cooking units, and clothes dryers under the conditions permitted for existing installations by 250.140 shall be permitted to be grounded by a grounded circuit conductor. - - Exception No. 2: It shall be permissible to ground meter enclosures by connection to the grounded circuit conductor on the load side of the service disconnect if - - - (a) No service ground-fault protection is installed, and - - - (b) All meter enclosures are located near the service disconnecting means, and - - - © The size of the grounded circuit conductor is not smaller than the size specified in Table 250.122 for equipment grounding conductors. - - Exception No. 3: Direct-current systems shall be permitted to be grounded on the load side of the disconnecting means or overcurrent device in accordance with 250.164. - - Exception No. 4: Electrode-type boilers operating at over 600 volts shall be grounded as required in 490.72(E)(1) and 490.74. 408.21 Grounded Conductor Terminations. Each grounded conductor shall terminate within the panelboard in an individual terminal that is not also used for another conductor. Exception: Grounded conductors of circuits with parallel conductors shall be permitted to terminate in a single terminal if the terminal is identified for connection of more than one conductor. Richard R.

Paul, I must be a regional thing as we are not that far apart. I have always known them as a sash balance. It does go to reason that since it is spiral in shape that it would be a 'spiral sash balance'. Richard

Rick, Seeing that you are in my area, I'll jump in. I see the type of set-up that you described quite alot. The lowest price got the job in this case. The lack of footings is an issue for long term stability. I like to tell my clients that just because the home was leveled doesen't mean that it will stay that way for very long. Especially in an expansive clay environment like we are in here in the North Central Texas area. Usually, with a home built in the 30's, you're going to find old/ outdated plumbing that is leaking or needs to be replaced, or it has recently been replaced. If this home still has the original plumbing and there is an issue with a leak OR the property has poor grading and drainage, the home could become unstable very quickly. Guess who will get the call... Rich

Don, Your $200.00 investment was easily worth twice that. Just the ability of this MM to provide quick and easy operation is worth the extra money of paying full price. I'd say you got quite a bargain. I've had the same concerns as you had with the Tramex Moisture Encounter Plus around stucco windows (getting false readings). I plan on splurging on the Tramex Wet Wall Detector early 05. I do quite a few commercial stucco buildings that certainly warrant the added investment. Richard