dtontarski

I was taught and also viewed on line, at what I thought was an authoritative site, that splices were only allowed in panels to lengthen conductors. (as is often required when old service panels are updated) But, as I can see from this current thread, I was steered wrong. As a follow up to reading this thread, I googled "splices in service panels" to see what other info was out there, and discovered that the general consensus was that splices are o.k., as long as they are kept to a reasonable number and are not overcrowding the panel - plus, as mentioned in this thread, have the proper wire gauge to breaker size fit. Actually one of the other inspector's forums debated this, and what I took away was that this condition is somewhat open for subjective (good common sense) code interpretation. I'm glad I took a moment to review some of the recent TIJ posts that I missed. Question - Is it recommended that we report observed splices and the possibility of nuisance tripping - or that these circuits be further evaluated to determine what the likelihood of nuisance tripping will be?

Jim - Once again - thanks! Knowing the rules is one thing - understanding why the rules exist and the safety issues around them is so much better. I appreciate your willingness to share your expertise and your efforts to make those of us who have found this great educational resource better inspectors. Dave

Bob, Two ungrounded ane a single stranded. Dave

Mike - I'm not sure what a Myers hub is (couldn't find this in my Hansen book), but the panels were connected by a piece of steel conduit approximately 8" long (see photo). Feeder did not have separate grounding conductor and one terminal bar held all grounds and neutrals. (many together under single screws) Other: what's the word on surface rust? The terminal bar screws in the main service panel had surface rust. How do you typically call this out? Thanks for the advice. Dave Download Attachment: Sub Panel Bonding Issue.jpg 109.63 KB

This was a new one on me. I inspected a home the other day that was for sale by a home inspector. I always imagined that this would be loads of fun. To the point - the sub-panel was not properly wired as a sub-panel - the grounds and neutrals were bonded. As he was right there, I pointed this out to him. He informed me that this was o.k. because it was close to the service panel. I, as tactfully as possible, explained I knew of no distance to service panel rule that made this o.k. This guy has years of experience on me as a home inspector and I always try to be as respectful as possible to everyone I come in contact with....my question is: Is there some such rule that I'm not aware of? I spoke a local electrical inspector and he told me I was right to call this, but I would rather trust the experience of the regulars on this site to review this and set me straight on this. Thanks!

Found the indirect system upon my return. (Amtrol) Required the removal of a tacked in place piece of paneling that sealed a small space built into an otherwise sealed off crawlspace under a rear building addition. The safe was in here too! Thanks for the input.

This boiler provides hydronic heating to 2-floors of this home. There is a thermostat on each floor. These 2-thermostats controlled hot water circulation to all rooms. The finished basement and third floor have radiant electric baseboards. The boiler is on concrete. It has a pressure release valve, but no extension pipe, and the other issues you point out were noted and a recommendation for further evaluation is planned. I searched all four finished floors for another source of hot water and found none. I'll do as you suggested on Sunday. Thanks.

The most common installation I see for homes which get their hot water via a hydronic heating boiler are the indirect-fired systems with tanks. I've yet to see a boiler with tankless coils for this purpose. The home I inspected last evening had no evidence of a tank or coils. It appears that there is no isolation of the potable water from what is traveling through the boiler and the water at all faucets was close to 130. I'm heading back to this property on Sunday to retrieve my radon monitor and have a chance to take a second look. Any advice on what I should be looking for that would make this install acceptable?

To clarify my initial inquiry - I inspected a 2002 built home with a 2002 Trane condensing unit (Model TWR036D100A0). Inside the home was a Trane electric furnace. (it gets cold up here) The thermostat was a basic design with either a heat or cool position. The outside temperature was in the 80's. I checked distribution with the unit in cooling mode, shut it down for a while, and then set the thermostat to heating mode to check to see if the electric furnace component of the set-up would come on. The buyer told me that he was told that this shouldn't be done. I interpreted the info I was able to get online for this particular Trane equipment as implying that it was quite state of the art and would handle this switch over safely. The good news is that I didn't seem to blow anything up, but I would like to hear from any of the HVAC experts out there. How should these units be tested when it is over 75 - or shouldn't they. I don't want to "interpret" myself into damaging an expensive piece of equipment. It seems others that use this forum could benefit from some advice on this as well. Thanks.

Are there risks associated with activating the electric furnace components of a heat pump system in hot weather? If so - what are these? If not, what is the best procedure?

Thanks Jim - good simple clarification - exactly what I needed.

I hope that folks are still following this thread... Jim K stated: "That cap tells you that you're looking at a direct vent terminal, not just a cat IV vent." Can someone share with me basic definitions for Category IV versus Direct Vent? - How do I recognize direct vents versus "just a cat IV vent?" Thanks.

Thanks everyone!

Would someone be willing to share some boilerplate information on how to report on rust and corrosion on the interior of a service panel? These photos appear to indicate that water has followed the SEC into the panel - resulting in rust on many of the breaker terminals and on the panel enclosure, and oxidation on the aluminum conductors. What is correct - to simply detect and recommend immediate further evaluation? Or do I go beyond this and state it needs to be cleaned or replaced? (yes - I recognize that there are additional issues that require corrections) Thanks. Image Insert: 132.89 KB Image Insert: 140.03 KB Image Insert: 151.35 KB

As always - valuable lessons learned by posting on this site. Thank you for all of the valuable feedback.

Thanks for your reviews and responses. Someone e-mailed me an illustration from a training manual today from one of the inspector training schools. I'd post it, but I don't want to risk violating any copyright issues. The illustration is titled "Improper sidewall vent locations - high efficiency furnaces" It shows a HE vent installed directly beneath a window and is captioned "3' clearance (if > 100,000 BTU) - 1' clearance (if < 100,000 BTU)" That's it - it does not mention if these clearances are beneath, to the side, or over. Has anyone out there reading this post seen this illustration? This is from one of the most reputable training schools. Any opinions on this?

I posted this same photo a few days back and got some helpful responses, but I'm re-posting this with the hope of hearing from some of the HVAC pro's that regularly contribute here. In my report I stated: "I have rated this category marginal in order to point out the following observation regarding the termination position of the furnace vent: - The International Residential Code (IRC) & the Uniform Mechanical Code (UMC) require that category IV forced vents (the type that is used by this home's furnace) terminate a minimum of 4' below or to side of windows. The window adjacent to this appliance vent does not have these clearances. NOTE: As with all codes, these codes can be superceded by the manufactures installation instructions and listings. I did not have the opportunity to review this documentation. I recommend that the termination point of this vent be verified to comply with Rheem's window clearance recommendations for this furnace. NOTE: As the window will likely never be open when the furnace is on, the hazards associated with this are minimal." My Questions - Was I right in my statement regarding the manufactures installation instructions taking precedent over these codes? Does this type of exterior vent cap actually make this safer than standard pvc pipes? I did an online search but couldn't come up with anything that would validate the safety of this installation. Is it unreasonable to suggest that the builder produce documentation verifying that this furnace is safely vented per manufactures installation instructions? I'm taking crap from the builder - demanding to see my NYS license and my ASHI certification, etc.... Any advice on how I should have addressed this observation? Image Insert: 139.96 KB

Brandon - Code check reads "min 4ft below or to side and 1 ft above window or door" in the forced vents (category IV) section, but as I understand it the manufactures instructions are the ultimate guideline. I didn't have the benefit of having these documents during my inspection so I went with code check. Dave

Observed this category IV forced vent for high efficiency furnace venting very close to AC unit today. This seems to violate common sense, as this warm moist air will surely affect this unit, but does this violate any code issues? (Yes, I did point out that the window over this vent didn't meet the 4' below or to the side clearance requirements) Image Insert: 139.94 KB

Thanks Mike. As always, a detailed reply. Yes - this entire set-up was called out as exigent and the repair people will be there this morning when I am setting up my radon equipment. (off course every window in the home was open when I arrive to set it up the first time...but hey...these open windows may have saved these folks from CO) The horizontal vent has a negative horizontal pitch, no draft hood at the water heater itself (one located in the vent about 8' away), marginal clearance to ceiling joists, etc...... So no problem with the aluminum tubing itself? NOTE: The forced air gas furnace which shared a common unlined flue, had similar issues. I think the water heater was actually causing spillage at the draft diverter for this. When I fired up the furnace, the spillage in this area made me drop the cover and jump back.

This water heater has what appears to be an aluminum gas supply line. Is this an approved gas supply line material? Yes - I did note that there is no TPRV extension pipe and that the unit is not vented properly. (the draft hood was never installed, the horizontal draft run has a negative pitch, and several other exigent conditions) Image Insert: 88.84 KB

Thanks!

Can anyone educate me on this type of siding? When was it popular Image Insert: 138.81 KB Image Insert: 134.02 KB? Would it contain asbestos, or does it pre-date the popularity of asbestos in building materials? If asbestos - would it be friable? This was installed on an 1850 built home that I guess they got tired of painting. Thanks

Can anyone provide me a link to a good website, document or recommendation for a book that will help be better understand how to date window construction, based on type of jamb liners, balance systems, etc.? I've attached a photo - sorry that it's a bit washed out...so much for having an undergraduate degree in photography. The jamb is metal lined, the home was built in 1910. I'd rather say the windows "are" original than "appear" to be original in my report. Any direction and guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Dave Tontarski The Finger Lakes Region of NYS Image Insert: 72.75 KB

Mike - There is a receptacle outlet in the ceiling for the opener. This is on the same circuit as the garage wall and the exterior receptacle outlets. This circuit is protected by a GFCI receptacle outlet next to the service panel in the basement. Are there safety issues as well as convenience and nuisance tripping issues? Dave