dtontarski

Thanks everyone!

Thanks - The home I inspected today was listed as a 1922 built, but it looked more like an early 50's home to me. (I thought is was odd that the square footage and year built were identical) The Bulldog Panels appeared to be the home's originals. That post WWII to mid-60's information helps validate my guess on the home's vintage. Have Bulldog's been discussed on this forum? I went back about 20 pages and didn't see anything specific. Any boilerplate info out there on how these are described in reports?

Does anyone have a timeframe that Bulldog Pushmatics were installed?

Thanks Mike.

Thanks in advance Mike. I looked back through 5 or 6 pages prior to making the request. Figured it would be easier to just ask and maybe beneficial to new visitors to generate some new info. on this topic.

I generally recommend that an HVAC pro further evaluate a gas or oil fueled furnace or boiler if the unit appears to not have been recently serviced. (generally - if I don't see a service tag or a receipt dated within a year of my inspection). I feel this protects my clients as well as myself. I rarely see heat pumps or electric furnaces, and don't have any general recommendations for these units. Anyone out there see these on a regular basis and have general recommendations for frequency of service? Or anyone have any SOP's for inspecting these? Thanks.

Everyone - thanks for the review & input. I did recommend further analysis, including load calculation, the removal of breakers, and the inspection of the bus. The square footage of the home has been increased significantly since it was built and I pointed out that this service was currently marginal and recommended an update. This home was cosmetically flawless with great curb appeal...they actually installed new shingles.....just to the roof exposure facing the street. Out of sight...out of mind....roof and electrical components alike.

Morning Chad, I'm writing up the obvious issues. When a panel has one of these old surge arresters with leads going to each of the hot bus bars do you address this? This is mentioned in Hansen's book...but not called out as an issue. Dave

Inspected a home on a hill with an elaborate lightning protection system. Note the discolored breakers on the upper left side of this 1975 split-bus main service panel. Could this scorching be the result of a past strike? What's the call on this? Further analysis by an electrician? Is breaker replacement mandatory? I don't pull breakers...could this have damaged the bus? Any and all advice will be appreciated. Thanks. Download Attachment: Discolored Breakers.jpg 205.05 KB

Chad - I was thinking the less academic architectural style - Vernacular. It was pretty eclectic pulling characteristics from many styles. (Architect was Samuel Lewis) You pegged the run of the joists. Maybe those multiple layers of wood and composition shingles (180 years worth) contributed to the spread. Good call on the joists hangers and finishing...what I was planning. I'm over 14 hours into my report writing now...whew...I may pass the next one of these on to you......I wouldn't have taken this one....but for the stocked trout pond. Thanks everyone.

I had the privilege to inspect an 1827 home this week and have a question regarding an observation. The joist to beam joints were exposed in one of the rooms and it appears that these joints have separated. How tight were these joints typically designed to be? How tight should they remain. Is this typical separation after 180 years? The stone foundation had typical settlement issues with step cracks in the brick walls transmitting up across the walls, but repairs had been made (not all that professional), and the building seemed square and plumb. I've rarely observed tight joints, but I'm curious regarding what is typical, what should be called out, and how should I call it out? Any shared wisdom or helpful web links would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Download Attachment: Joist To Beam Separation.jpg 87.88 KB

Gary & Paul - Thanks - Great guide Paul...thanks again.

Paul & Jim - Thanks. I figured that this had to have been allowed at one time, and I have been simply pointing out where to reset, as I do when the first floor half bath GFCI protects the standard receptacle outlets in the baths down stream. Thanks for providing me a clearer understanding and for explaining your thoughts and standard reporting practices on this.

What is the current code for Whirlpool tub GFCI protection? Are these required to be protected by a GFCI receptacle outlet in the vicinity of the tub, or can they be protected by a GFCI circuit breaker in the main panel. Has this code recently changed regarding these requirements? I seem to see older installs with circuit breaker protection and new ones with receptacle outlet protection in the access areas. Saw one Saturday without circuit breaker and no access to enclosure. I recommend further evaluation, but it got me wondering about how the code for this may have changed over the last 15 years or so. Thanks.

I frequenty find exterior outlets that are protected by an interior GFCI receptacle outlet protecting one of the kitchen small appliance circuits. And, on occasion, I find exterior outlets protected by an adjacent bath GFCI receptacle outlet. Was there a time that these exterior outlets were allowed to be on these dedicated circuits? Does anyone have some standard phrasing they would share on how they report these conditions?

Gary, Copyright 2001, 2005 - 3rd printing. I ordered the new one (see my earlier post) and they sent me this one. Strangest on-line ordering experience I've every had. Mine is likely the same one you have. Dave

Thanks Mike - Things to do today: 1. Finish reading Hansen's book...just arrived. 2. Finish reading all historical home threads in preparation for my 1827 built next week - - Historical House Inspection @ standard fees - stocked trout pond inspection - no charge (catch & release protocols to be followed)

Mike - Way back up in this thread you stated "If it's an older home with 2-hole receptacles, or it's pre-1962 (or was it 63?)" What exactly is it that you are referring to here? Was it 62 or 63 that 3-hole receptacles were introduced? How about thermoplastic insulation...was that introduced around 65? I find timelines very helpful as I sort out the original equipment in homes for updates. I usually have the year built from the MLS listing. Sometimes it is accurate, other times it is not.

Thanks Mike. Your opinion and the reasoning behind it reinforces what I understood about it. The collective opinions of the experienced individuals on this site helps us all report with confidence. Another window question - more photos attached -Wouldn't best practice be that all exterior window to trim seams be caulked against driving rain? Download Attachment: Tom Ewing 031.jpg 80.39 KB Download Attachment: Tom Ewing 045.jpg 57.96 KB

I inspected a 2-year old home built by quote "one of the areas top builders" yesterday. There was a 5x7' fixed window (vinyl framed/insulated glass) in the family room. The window frame (the vertical 7' side) was bowed out in the center approximately 5/16" on both sides. The current owner was told by the builder that this gap was necessary in order to allow the window to flex against the wind. Opinions on this? Download Attachment: Tom Ewing 080.jpg 97.71 KB Download Attachment: Tom Ewing 079.jpg 56.6 KB

Thanks again for pointing me in the right direction on the Miraflex...here's some info. found on the internet. I'm posting this for the benefit of anyone following this thread looking for the same basic info. I was looking for. Imagine loading all the fiberglass insulation you would need to insulate a medium-sized house into a station wagon or minivan. Owens-Corning's new PinkPlus insulation comes in a roll half the size of a comparable product, making it easier to handle and less expensive to transport. These compact rolls are one benefit of the new Miraflex glass fiber. Miraflex is two forms of glass fused into a single twisted filament. The twists hold the fibers together, so chemical binders aren't needed. Owens-Corning even removed the coloring and other chemical additives, which is good news for people concerned about the health effects of fiberglass. Miraflex fibers themselves may reduce health concerns, too. The fiber is much softer and less irritating than original fiberglass insulation. Pink Plus rolls include a perforated pink plastic wrap. The wrap reduces itch-producing dust and helps the insulation slide into place. However, because it's perforated it doesn't create a vapor retarder as brown kraft paper facing does.

Bill, I visited the J.M. site and I interpreted the information posted there as the sleeve did serve as a vapor retarder. I'll need to revisit that site and check out the O.C. site. Thanks for the product info. Not much useful information out there with simple google of "encapsulated insulation". Dave Tontarski

Thanks Mike Do you know who manufactures this stuff? I'd like to read more about these products for background information.

I observed the bagged or plastic wrapped type batt insulation (I think its marketed as an itch-proof product for do-it-yourselfers) in an attic today installed over the original 40+ year old fiberglass batt insulation with a Kraft vapor retarder (oriented properly). I know that multiple vapor retarders are not recommended and it seems that this installation has actually create three. I realize that some vapor from the home may find its way up and get trapped in the original insulation. This will probably affect its thermal resistance value, but what is the worse case scenario here. Has any one seen water logged insulation and other related damage in this type of installation? What should I recommend to my client? That they remove the fancy new insulation and discard it? That the remove it and slit both sides of the plastic to prevent moisture from being trapped below? Anyone - what would you do/say? Thanks. Download Attachment: Insulation.jpg 119.29 KB

Thanks - this is the exact type of information that I was looking for....what, when, & why. The additional background information on Romex is also greatly appreciated. I hadn't seen these facts before. This is the kind of detail that makes this site so beneficial.