hausdok

Hi, Jim is right of course. The manufacturer's specs trump everything else. I can't remember the specs for the various types that I've seen and was looking at IRC 1306.2. IRC 1306.1 says per manufacturer's listing. OT - OF!!! M.

Editor's Note: This is an old recall from more than a year ago. Somehow we missed it. Trane and American Standard Gas-Electric Heating/Cooling Units News from CPSC U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission Office of Information and Public Affairs Washington, DC 20207 For Immediate Release Firm's Recall Hotline: (888) 556-0125 Feburary 11, 2005 CPSC Recall Hotline: (800) 638-2772 Release #05-104 CPSC Media Contact: (301) 504-7908 CPSC, American Standard Companies Announce Recall of Gas-Electric Heating/Cooling Units WASHINGTON, D.C. - The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission announces the following recall in voluntary cooperation with the firm below. Consumers should stop using recalled products immediately unless otherwise instructed. Name of product: Trane and American Standard Gas-Electric heating/cooling units Units: 18,200 Manufacturer: Trane and American Standard, divisions of American Standards Inc., of Tyler, Texas Hazard: A gas leak can occur if there is a crack in the gas valve body near the inlet pipe connection. A build-up of gas in the burner compartment of the unit could occur, which could be ignited by an internal spark. Incidents/Injuries: Trane has received five reports of gas valve cracks, though no injuries or property damage has been reported. greybody: The recalled units include 2 through 5-ton Trane and American Standard heating and air conditioning packaged units. Affected units are combination gas heat and air conditioning systems installed outdoors only. Gas furnaces installed indoors are not included in this recall. The units have identification plates displaying the model number; serial number; and the year, month and day of manufacture. The plate is located on one end of the unit. The first four digits of all serial numbers indicate the year, fiscal week and day of manufacture. The recall includes: • All units with model numbers beginning with YCP or YCX, and having serial numbers beginning with 3383 through 4475. • All units with model number beginning with YCY or YCZ, and having serial numbers beginning with 4282 through 4475. Sold at: Independent dealers and installers sold these units between October 2003 and December 2004. Manufactured in: United States. Remedy: Consumers with recalled units are being contacted by the independent dealers that installed them. Consumers who think they have recalled units and have not yet been contacted, should call their installer for more information. Using their model and serial numbers, consumers also can visit the firms’ Web sites to confirm if their unit is included in the recall. Consumers with recalled units should contact their installer to arrange for a free inspection. Consumer Contact: Contact Trane/American Standard toll-free at (888) 556-0125 between 8 a.m. and 5 p.m. CT Monday through Friday or visit www.trane.com or www.americanstandardair.com. Firm’s Media Contact: Lisa Glover at (732) 980-6048.

Hi, I don't think there is a prohibition against it swinging inward as long as it swings outward a minimum of 22 inches. OT - OF!!! M.

Hi, See 'em all the time. Don't know about the top one but the data plate on the bottom one is either under the lid on top or behind a small panel on the lower left side near the back. Use the rules for wood burning stoves in your region. That bottom one will completely heat a house around here, but in your region it's a lot colder than here in the winter so maybe two were needed. Provided there's a UL listing, there should be not less than 36 inches clearance to combustibles from the back of that unit to the wall, unless there's a clearance combustion system in place (I don't see one) in which case it can be as little as (but never less than) 12 inches. That bottom one is less than 12 inches. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Hi, Here are a couple of hits off a google search for cold climate heat pumps. http://www.aceee.org/pubs/a042_h9.pdf http://www.chelanpud.org/newsreleases/2 ... 040105.htm OT - OF!!! M.

Hi Randy, Looks almost like those were meant to be able to partially collapse the roof for transit or something. Anything about it that made it look like an old mod? OT - OF!!! M.

Hi Chris, Yeah, that is a good one. Anyone got a suitable caption. Anything I have to say about it probably isn't too politically correct. OT - OF!!! M.

Yeah, like a madman. I save stuff all month long 'cuz I'm too lazy to start the thing at the beginning and have it ready at the end. At the end of the month, after I've been promising Mike and Rose that the thing will get out on time, I allot myself one day and one night to get it all together into the Update. Guess what? It never works out and usually takes me about 3 days and a couple all-nighters. Then I post 'em to the boards in the dead of the night so I can finally go crash. I'm already promising Mike and Rose to have it ready by the 3rd week of the month but I'm guessing they won't be holding their breath come March 31st. OT - OF!!! M.[:-bonc01]

I walk 'em all unless the pitch is just to steep for me to get up at the valleys. The number of times that roofs looked great from the ground and turned out to have significant issues once I got up onto them is probably better than 50%. That's enough to convince me I need to do it, but that's only me. Walking roofs is a personal decision. Nobody can make it for you and if you gut tells you not to make the climb - don't. OT - OF!!! M.

Hi, I see 'em all the time and always remove both pre-filters and collector plate assemblies and explain to the client how to properly open, disassemble, clean and reassemble the things. Then I'll fire up the system and, since they they typically don't come on until the air handler kicks in, wait for the unit to heat up to operating temp. Then I'll walk back and give the return air duct on the intake side of the filter a wack with my hand. If it's working, there's absolutely no doubt in anyone's mind because that smack dislodges a bunch of stuff that the filter immediately starts grabbing and the snapping can last for several minutes. If I don't hear any snapping, I'll typically recommend that they get the system professionally cleaned and the electronic air cleaner checked out by a reputable HVAC tech. After that I'm done. I don't particularly care what happens between the seller and the buyer at that point. It's none of my business and if an owner said that he didn't want to fix something I'd just shrug and walk away. I'm not their mother. I can't make 'em do anything and I don't see my role as having to stand there and argue with anyone about my findings. Works for me. OT - OF!!! M.

E.I.F.S. is probably one of the most misunderstood systems out there today and the home inspection world is rife with statements such as, "There's no such thing as a good EIFS job." Don't believe it. It is possible to do a good EIFS installation job that when maintained properly will remain leak and mold free. The fact that there are so many buildings in the Pacific Northwest clad in EIFS for many years without mold and water infiltration is the proof in the pudding. The challenge for inspectors is knowing what to look for to spot the poor EIFS jobs and knowing how the system works is half the battle. This free on-line course will help you gain that understanding. You'll have to register in order to take the course but don't worry it's free. Click here.

Everyone wants to learn about mold these days but understanding mold is only half the battle. You also need to understand how to deal with its major contributing factor - moisture. This series of free on-line courses will help you do just that. You'll have to register in order to take the courses but don't worry they're free. Click here.

Mold seems to be on everyone's mind these days in this business. Years ago, we'd see it, tell folks to fix the water intrusion, dry and clean their house. No more. Today, because of mold litigation, inspectors are all walking around with a potential bullseye on our foreheads. We really need to get this stuff right. This free on-line course will go a long way to providing each of us a better understanding of mold and how it works. Click here.

30% off with 2 or more books!!! Check it out!!!

The U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) publishes a monthly newsletter with many good tips for conserving energy. In this issue, the duct sealing requirements of energy codes is discussed. Download February Newsletter: here. Sign up for newsletter here

A couple of months ago, we directed everyone to the Engineered Wood Association's site to download a copy of an APA study done after Katriana. Well, that document has since been updated to include study area overview map. Get your free copy here.

Oakland, N.J. -- Mikron's new 7815B infrared camera is like an x-ray machine for building diagnostics, the company says, identifying a wide range of invisible problems that add hidden costs to building ownership, such as air infiltration, moisture intrusion, mold, fungus, energy losses, pest infestations, as well as others. According to Mikron, the 7815B combines the highest-resolution microbolometer camera in the industry with a visible light camera and laser target dot to make professional thermal imaging point-and-shoot simple. For more information on the M7815B Building Inspection camera, visit www.mikroninfrared.com

Ever tried to test the receptacls in a home and been frustrated to no end by the plastic plug-in safety covers that folks use to protect their kids? Well, if we home inspectors work real hard to get the word out those d#%* plugs will be a thing of the past because Pass and Seymour has come out with a new line of tamper-resistant receptacles with integral self-closing shutters designed to prevent injuries to children. All kidding aside, these receptacles are a good investment for any parent with small children because the CPSC estimates that about 1,300 children are killed or injured each year by poking some foreign object into outlets. Your clients will appreciate you passing on this recommendation to them. The devices come in both GFCI and regular type rreceptacles and and cost about $6 to $8 each. For more information contact Pass & Seymour at 1-800-2223-4185 or check them out on the web at www.passandseymour.com. Oh, and while you're there, you might as download a free copy of Pass & Seymour's 40-page overview of the 2005 changes to the NEC by clicking here.

The home inspection world is rife with folklore. One inspector will "learn" a bad piece of information and then pass it on to another inspector and before you know it, another inspection myth has been created. Code discussions seem to result in the most misunderstandings but they needn't be - at least not where wood or engineered lumber is concerned. If you've got a question about engineered or dimensional structural wood, the American Wood Council's Codes and Standards Staff can help. The AWC has staff spread out all around the country whose primary function is to assist with code questions about lumber. Phone numbers and contact information can be found here. Make sure you bookmark this site because it is a treasure trove of useful information for home inspectors.

Those living in states with frigid and snowy winter climates will appreciate this document from the Canadian Mortgage and Housing Corp. (Canada's national housing agency) provides a general overview of the causes and cures for ice dams, and it also identifies where more work is needed to fully understand the prevention of ice dams in all climate conditions. To download your copy click here.

Hi All Has anyone got a photo of a recent either knock your socks off stupid or very educational type of issue that we can post to the front page of TIJ? If so, please submit them to this forum - Picture This - in the Discussion Forums section. They won't display until I've posted them and I'll keep them in order of submission. Submit a photo along with a head/shoulder shot and I'll see what I can do about displaying them together and giving you credit for the photo and may you uh, er, uh, FAMOUS! Yeah, that's it, famous. I can only post one photo, so if I get a series of them, I'll post them on a first come first served basis and change them ever week or so. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

On February 1st, 2006, CPSC, along with Desa Heating Products of Bowling Green, KY, recalled about 54,500 "40-80,000 BTU Portable Propane Convection Heaters for a flashback hazard As of the time of the CPSC release, CPSC had received 40 reports of incidents, possibly from the flashback hazard, including six reports of fires. The other 34 reported incidents involved minor property damage, including scorching of the flooring under the heater. There have been no reports of injury. Inspectors finding these units should advise the homeowner to stop using this heater immediately and return it to the store where purchased for a free replacement, refund or store credit The boilers are propane-gas fired and were manufactured between April 1, 2005 and October 31, 2005 and were sold at home centers and hardware stores nationwide from August 2005 through December 2005 for between $100 and $300. The units affected are DESA 40-80,000 BTU Portable Propane Convection Heaters which generate from 40,000 to 80,000 BTUs an hour. The following model names and number are involved in this recall: Reddy Heater (RCP80VC), All-Pro (SPC-80CC), MASTER (TC80VC), Universal (80-CC), and Dayton (6BY73). These heaters have serial numbers between 017390000 and 017632220. The model and serial numbers are on the carton and on labels attached to the heater. The designation “Made in Chinaâ€

On February 1st, 2006, CPSC, along with Weil-McLain Company of Michigan City, IN, recalled about 1,131 GV Series Boilers for a defect that can allow gas to escape and result in a fire or explosion if an ignition source is present. As of the time of the CPSC release, no incidents or injuries had been reported. Inspectors finding these units should ask the homeowner whether it has been repaired under the manufacturer's recall. If not, they should advise the homeowner to stop using the product immediately and contact Weil-McLain to arrange for an on-site repair of the unit by the manufacturer at no cost to the homeowner. The boilers are gas fired and were manufactured between April 1, 2005 and October 31, 2005 and were sold by plumbing and heating wholesalers to independent plumbing/heating contractor and then to consumers for between $2,200 and $3,200. The units affected are model numbers: GV-3, GV-4, GV-5 and GV-6 with serial numbers ranging from CP5075477 to CP5221234. The serial numbers and date codes are located on the left side of the jacket above the boiler rating label. For more information, contact Weil-McLain Company at (219) 879-6561 between 8 a.m. and 4 p.m. ET Monday through Friday and ask for consumer relations or visit the firm’s Web site at http://www.weil-mclain.com. To view the original CPSC recall, including photos of the units involved, click here.

Most of us believe that an accident during an inspection will never happen to us. However think back over the past months as to how many close calls you have had? How many times has the ladder jumped around while we were going into the attic? Or when the ladder shifts when you’re stepping back onto your roof ladder? Portable ladders are one of the handiest, simplest tools we use. Because of their simplicity we use them without a lot of thought. Each year in the U.S., accidents involving ladders cause an estimated 300 deaths and 130,000 injuries requiring emergency medical attention. As a fireman and a home inspector, I use ladders on a regular basis and it is easy to take them for granted. I have deliberate steps I take every time I set my ladder up to maintain my safety. The majority of ladder accidents are caused by improper selection and use. Some of the more common hazards involving ladders, such as instability, electrical shock, and falls, can be easily prevented. Prevention requires proper planning, correct ladder selection, safe work procedures. Always look at where you are going to use your ladder. I look for trees, electrical wires and other overhead obstacles. The ground where you are raising the ladder should be relatively flat and offer good traction to the ladder feet. If you are raising an extension or multi-purpose ladder to the roof, always try to extend it at least 3 feet above the roof edge. Make sure the ladder extension locks or dogs are locked and tie the rope around the rungs. On multipurpose ladders the locks should be engaged. The foot of the ladder should be spaced 1 foot away for every 4 feet it reaches up. An easy way to check the angle is to stand with your feet against the base of the ladder and extend your arms toward the ladder. If you have the correct angle, your hands should easily grasp the rungs. If it is a windy day take a bungee cord with you and wrap the bungee around the top rungs and attach to the gutter. This ensures a strong gust won’t blow down your ladder. Three points of contact is the rule for climbing or descending a ladder. Hold on with both hands when going up or down. If the client or realtor is available have them steady the ladder while you are on it. Check the soles of your shoes before climbing. Mud or debris can turn into a lubricant at the wrong time. If you have to climb a steep roof, use the valleys, as they seem to offer a better surface for climbing and descending. I wear mechanics gloves during roof and crawl space inspections. On a hot day the shingles and flashing are 130+ degrees. I learned this the hard way one when I was getting back onto my ladder and put my hand down on a shingle. That was the last time I went up without gloves! Seven Tips For Ladder Safety: 1. Beware of the electrical lines. When you are on the ladder or working on the roof. They may look innocent but can cause severe shock and injury. 2. Do not stand on the ladder's top three rungs. Do not work from the top or top step of a stepladder. 3. Take time to evaluate your ascension. Look at all slopes and valleys. Two and three story structures call for the utmost of attention and care. Pulling your ladder up on to a one-story roof to get to the second story is risky, as normally you will be placing the foot of the ladder onto a sloped surface. This one will get you if you don’t exercise good judgment. If you have to do this climb, get someone to hold the ladder in place, better yet, get a longer ladder and avoid the situation! 4. Ladders used to reach a roof should extend beyond the roof edge preferable 3 feet. With my Little Giant I make an exception due to the spread legs as they make it difficult to step onto the center of the rungs. I usually only raise it a foot or so above the roofline. 5. On the roof always be moving deliberately. Always looking at where you’re stepping especially when you’re backing up. The next step could be off the roof or cause you to go off balance. 6. Always have 3-point contact (such as, one hand and two feet) with the ladder. 7. Keep your body centered between the side rails of the ladder – so you don’t tip over the ladder. Never use a ladder that has been damaged. Lastly, if you are going to work on your roof, beware of the pitch or angle of the roof. It is always easier to walk up the roof than down it. I never walk on metal, tile or slate roofs and rarely on wood shake roof. I also rarely will walk on a wet or snowy roof. Those surfaces offer questionable traction and if I run into a problem I want all the traction I call get. This is my personal preface, which I am sure some people will disagree with but I back it up with 30 years experience as a firefighter. As a firefighter we use ladders in all types of conditions and only take risks when lives are on the line. We train with safety in mind to minimize the risks. If the roof looks pretty steep when you get to the top of your ladder, then it may not be safe for you. If your nervous and your body is sending out danger signals, then exercise your right to call the climb unsafe for you. It’s better to say no than to risk getting hurt or killed. In 2004, Rich Norris, a home inspector in San Diego fell off a roof and died from his injuries. I sustained an injury falling off my own gazebo last spring. I fell 15 ft. to a wooden deck and couldn’t work for 2 weeks. I was lucky; I didn’t break any bones and only separated a shoulder. When you own your own business and can’t work, your income stops. The bottom line is don’t take unnecessary chances. Be safe! Rick Bunzel is the Principle Inspector at Pacific Crest Inspections and a Firefighter with the Mt. Erie Fire Department Rick can be contacted at Pacific Crest Inspections @ 360-588-6956 or Rick@PacCrestInspections.com. For discussions about other inspection-related topics on TIJ's Other Forums.

Like any household appliance, the water heater has a very specific job to perform and it must do its job to the homeowner’s complete satisfaction 24 hours a day, every day, for years and years. Water heating requirements for the home have increased steadily. As a result, the last water heater purchased by the homeowner now may be too small to satisfy household needs. In addition, rising energy costs have become a concern. Operating costs now can be just as important in making the buying decision as the initial price of the new water heater itself! Investigate your pattern of hot water usage. Some sample questions may include:id="indT"> Number of people in the family; kids, teenagers How many bathrooms, garden tub or hot tub Automatic dishwasher Clothes washer id="indT">How many family members will routinely take a shower in any given hour. For instance, if all four of thechildren take a shower between 7 - 8 PM daily to get ready for bed, you may have a high usage demand. If both parents take their showers in the morning, Mom gets a load of clothes in the washing machine and turns the dish washer on before everyone leaves for school and work, you may have a high usage demand. Focus on your usage pattern and consumption factors. Peak Hour Demand is the key. Peak hour demand is the busiest one-hour usage period. This may be in the morning, evening or some other time during the day. Accurate calculation of the demand is essential to proper water heater sizing. Look at the following sample of a typical peak hour demand for this family of three. Click To Enlarge After you have calculated the actual peak hour demand load, you can use a make and model chart to choose the correct water heater within +/- 2 gallons capacity. When selecting the proper size look for the ‘first hour rating’ on the model chart. The ‘first hour rating’ is a function of the initial storage capacity plus the ability of the water heater to heat while in use. In the example above, you would select a Rheem residential electric water heater with a 65 gallon storage capacity. Use the chart above to calculate your Peak Hour Demand. Be honest - then check your water heater’s rating plate for the capacity. Are you close? "Technical Competence, Product Confidence" This Rheem technical service bulletin is provided through special arrangement between Rheem Manufacturing Company and The Inspector's Journal. To obtain a printer-friendly version of this article for your customers, click on this link. You can find additional plumbing-related topics at TIJ's Plumbing Forum or discussions about other inspection-related topics on TIJ's Other Forums.