Chris Bernhardt

I see this every so often. I don't like it. Is there anything other than personal opinion that says its wrong? In this case the mounts were bearing directly on the roofing and were directly over the exterior wall on the trusses. At that point it should be all solid wood so I can't see that theres really anything structural wrong gravity wise. Client wants it to be condemed. Download Attachment: jse_IMG_0724.jpg 54.46 KB Download Attachment: jse_IMG_0732.jpg 51.51 KB Chris, Oregon

Do you write up every item individually or lump them altogether in one governing concern? For example lets take electrical outlets. Do you write an individual piece of narrative for reverse wired outlets, grounding type outlets without a ground, outlets dead or outlets with out covers or stuff broken off in a plug, worn, loose and a zillion other things that could be wrong with outlets or... Write one piece of narrative listing for example the problems with outlets and just say have an electrician go in and clean up the mess. It's crazy. Sometimes the client or rather his agent will want say a GFI fixed but not address say the reversed wired outlet or whatever. In otherwords they cherry pick through the individual items. Writing things up individualy on a system I think gives the impression that you don't have to fix everything for the system to be satisfactory. If the individual items all are needed to be repaired for the system to be satisfactory then we should say that which is something I know I have not been making clear. The thought got initiated when I saw Jim's recommendation for an electrician to just go and clean the wiring mess up in the attic etc.. Chris, Oregon

I sat next to one of the Portland muni's in a couple of code classes at Chemeketa who was responsible for enforcement of chapter 29 housing maintenance requirements and he was the one who told me about this stuff but said that they probably would not try and enforce it except in special situations. You can go on to the portlandonline website to "services" and then "charter, code & policy" and then "Portland city code" and then "Title 29" Its in section 29.30.230 Emergency Exits and section 29.30.090 Windows. Salem does not appear to require this or address it other then to just maintain what you got. Chris, Oregon

Thank you Jim for your clear and level headed advice. It was just what I needed to hear. Chris, Oregon

Well that may or may not cover what I said verbally about it being required to the agent. I did find an interpretive ruling on the Oregon code that said that as long as the replacement window clear opening was not less then the original clear opening then it could remain assuming it was legal at the time of original construction otherwise it has to be brought up to curent code. I went aggressive on the windows based partially on what I read in the "Converted BR in basement. No egress" post in the interior forum. Was my language to imflamatory? Should I have made it kinder, gentler and softer? I have been thru a fire. In a fire people can get all confused. I know I did. I may have been wrong to word it the way I did but it was my honest opinion at the time that having egress windows are that important. If I otherwise really wanted to buy the house I would make it top priority to change install an egress window in the bedrooms. I don't think I could sleep at night knowing my kids may not be able to be rescued. Chris, Oregon

Without actually grabing hold of the individual wire nutted splices looking at them closer and then testing the connection by giving it an appropriate tug and twist to the wires and wire nut how do you know if you have a sound connection? Sometimes them there wire nuts will fall right off. When I said eval I met for the electician to check the connections and fix them. I guess I should have said that. Chris, Oregon

BTW, I initiated this post as I was writing up the report that resulted later in my Old houses and egress windows post over in the exterior forum. I was struggling with how aggressive to write up replacement windows on an old house that did not qualify as egress windows and low and behold the zoid went ballistic with that I'll never be reffering you again attitude. Oh, Well - live and learn At least I'm trying to get better. Chris, Oregon

One of my favorite zoids just squealed so loud my ears are bleeding. I wrote up a 1959 house with vinyl double pane replacement windows for lack of egress.

Should we be writing these up for more than just the cover? The majority that I see have no cover because it was either installed or monkeyed with by a handyman, homeowner or his buddy. We can't touch them without a license in my State so its hard tell if the workmanship is satisfactory little alone if its to code. Would you write them up for further eval by an electrician also? Chris, Oregon

I struggle with this alot. To me there are things that need to be repaired now and things that need repair. In other words if a client asks me "When should it be repaired?" The answer would depend on what it is. If its a safety matter there is no other answer then to repair it right now as soon as you can. If its something that will cause damage or further deterioration then the answer is the same. If its something thats no correct then the answer to that can get problematic. As far as I am concerned everything I write up should be corrected if they want to avoid and problems now or in the future. The zoids of course are always trying to get the inspector to differentiate between those things that should be done now and things that can wait. That whole idea is rediculous as in the mind of the buyer every item in need of repairs has a cost of correction associated with it and its just dishonest thinking to try and say that items not in need of repair right now are not worthy of consideration. I don't think it is right to try and minimize something by indicating that it could be taken care of as part of normal maintenance or saying something like this. I have a problem with that idea. There is just not enough information there and any hint of delaying consideration for later is likely to get an inspector into trouble because all of the ramifications were not addressed. Whats your opinion on the degree of importance aspect in report writing? Chris, Oregon

It looks like a split buss type panel with a 60 amp sub main breaker feeding the lower half of the panel. Chris, Oregon

In one of the code clases I took a few years ago the instructor,a well known and respected ex-muni now retired, stressed that we should follow the written code and that it was a well known problem that local muni's pick and choose what will be OK in direct contravention with the intention of the code. He also discussed that the exceptions are near to none and gave several examples one even where the state chief muni screwed up allowing something that resulted in a fire. Chris, Oregon

Is metal flex duct approved for ducting range hoods like the one in the picture? Our Oregon code says smooth metal only but I even see this on new construction that has supposedly been thru final. Download Attachment: jse_IMG_0437.jpg 51.22 KB Chris, Oregon

Inspected a house recently where they had replaced the LP lap siding on the front of the house with fiber cement however at the corners of one particular window, the living room window, and below it the wall measure abnormally high with my tramex ME plus but not with the surveymaster. The pattern of the moistured anomally suggested it was moisture. I measured no detectable moisture on the interior wall and floor nor were there any moisture stains below in the crawlspace along this area. What would your recommendation be here? I think the sheathing is either wet or mositure damaged but you can't get to it without removing some siding to confirm it. Chris, Oregon

After viewing all of the videos and reading just about everything on the best of building science website I am back to the same concern. The experts complaint over and over is that the tradesmen are not doing it right. I have shortened up my recommendations and have adopted Jim Katens imperative style with great success so far as many of the realtors I work with have recognized the change and commented how they like its clarity and brevity. Instead of saying do it to code etc. I do use the words correct and proper alot in thier place when I have a concern. It makes me feel better but I don't believe the idea of doing something properly or correctly is going to be picked up or comunicated to the seller or to his contractor. But if you listen to what those gentlemen said in the videos they were always using the words like "properly" and "correctly". Now I know its been said many times already Chris you sound like your too concerned about the seller! I claim I am not and just want my client to get a decent repair and was just trying to be proactive in the matter. Listening to the experts like Joe Lstiburek and Bruce Harley etc. got me all concerned again and even more about the energy & comfort issues which I have been weak in. Chris, Oregon

I don't have a subcategory under windows that says screens present/not present if thats what you mean. I report on them only if their missing or damaged. Now on old houses with wood framed windows I wouldnt't report on them at all where they were not met to be present. Chris, Oregon

Well crap, that is a long list. At least for me anyways. The ironic thing is that none of the home inspection books currently published would make it on my list of essentials. I have a bunch and have read them all but I have never used them as a cited reference. At least for me in my Oregon practice the reference that I use the most is the Oregon Residential Specialty Code. Followed by - Electrical Inspections of Existing Dwellings and the NEC Then the list gets long of refrences I use occasionally maybe once or twice a week. I would say that JLC and TIJ are essential There is just a horred list of articles, books and web sites availible that anyone might find usefull. I imagine that some inspectors lists might have to come as abridged book. [] Chris, Oregon

I have 2 really good books both of which I have read cover to cover and then reread them but like always its like reading the bible. Every time you read it you come up with something new. The first book is (Water in Buildings - An Architect's Guide to Moisture and Mold) written by William B. Rose published by John Wiley & Sons copyright 2005. The other one is Listibureks Moisture Control Handbook which many here I am sure already familiar with. I was studing about moisture vapor in particularly in both books when I read a paragraph in the moisture control book concerning fireplaces being really a big house exhaust system assuming you use it. Well in this house that I started this post with it has an electric cadet heating system and upgraded windows and doors and more insulation. I imagine that the vapor pressure levels are literally thru the roof as has already been suggested permenating thru ceiling assembly and condensing on the upper boundary surface of the added insulation which is now colder then it would have been if they hed not added more insulation. Has anybody noticed a correlation between the lack of moisture problems in homes with actively used woodstoves and fireplaces vrs ones that just have electric heating systems? Chris Oregon

How should I write it up though? Provide more ventilation only? What about the damp insulation should I address that? Chris, Oregon

The house was built in 1973. It had a black plastic vapor barrier over the ground in the crawlspace. It had a plywood subfloor although I don't recall if there was a vapor retarder there or not. And I believe there was no vapor retarder in the ceiling assembly other than the paint. Usually if the moisture is coming from say an exhuast fan venting into the attic its pretty obvious as condensation, mildew and mold tends to emanate from those points. The was general and every where thru out. Chris, Oregon

This time a year its not unusual to see condensation on the under side of roof decking sometimes even drenched wet and dripping however in just a very few instances I have it the other way where upper surface of lets say the loose fill insulation was damp but the roof deck above although damp was not drenching wet. I am not quite sure how to write this up? Once the insulation is damp do you consider it damaged? If so do you try and dry it out in place? Remove and replace it? Do nothing? And to the source I wonder in these cases is it really from the house or is just from a severe and sudden drop in temperatures? In this case attic had approximately 14" of loose fill, soffited eaves, normal number of roof vents, one gable vent and kitchen and bathroom exhaust fans were vented up into roof vents and house is 1000sf and crawlspace was dry. Theres snow on the ground, very little on the roof and the temps lately have been low 30's. Chris, Oregon

Thanks Mike, that was the answer I was looking for. I appologize if I ask seemingly silly questions that any seasoned inspector ought to know. Please continue to indulge me with honest answers. I have my reasons for asking certain questions that go beyond just getting an answer to that particular question. And Randy you got it right. I am trying to clear up questions in my mind about how to properly handle inspection dilemmas. Thanks, Chris, Oregon

Randy what is the degree of importance here? Fix it right now? I guess that is my real question cause I see them at 16" or 14". Now at 12" its going to be really hard for a roofer to work with out accidently comming close to contacting the conductors. Chris, Oregon

Based on what I have seen it seems our local utility will hook the service up to just about anything. My guess is that complying with the NEC is the responsibility of the homeowner or whoever. How do you write up those drops over the eave lower than 18" above the roof? Chris, Oregon

When I was an engineer one of the pain in the ass duties was to determine mean life between failure. Yea, I know its BS. The fed required it when you sold to them. To anyone else it was useless information. Chris, Oregon.