Brandon Whitmore

Now for the reason for this post.... A large home builder in the area (and several others) are using a glue down method with engineered hardwood flooring and I have seen one builder use what appeared to be a staple down method. These installations have been on particle board and I have been writing this up as not being ideal and made recommendations to consult with the manufacturer for details on whether this installation is recommended. Of course, this has caused a problem and may actually be a deal killer on my last inspection because I have not backed down on my call. I have attempted to contact the manufacturer with no success at this time, and recommended that the buyer, Realtor, or builder get something in writing stating that this application is recommended per manufacturer. Darn--- still don't know if I should be writing this up.

I know I have read that it is not recommended to install engineered wood floors on top of MDF or particle board (I tend to use the words interchangeably and need to stop-- thanks for correcting me). I can't see it being a problem on a floating floor, but on a glue/staple/nail down installation I think it is questionable at best (still can't figure out whether to call it out any more). Here is part of an article I found indicating that particle board should be removed prior to installation. Particle board underlayment Looks like oatmeal and consists of tiny wood particles glued and pressed into 4 x 8 foot sheets. It is NOT suitable to use as a Structural subfloor material. I have only included Particle Board in this article because a lot of people see it when they remove old carpet and think it is a structural subfloor material like plywood or OSB. Particle board is NOT a structural subfloor material and is only manufactured to be used as a cheap underlayment filler sheet on top of the main structural subfloor material to raise the height of carpet to a desired level. Particle board can absorb excessive moisture is very brittle and does not hold nails very well. If this type of underlayment is present, it will have to be removed when planning to install a nail or glue down hardwood floor. * If desired, Particle Board Underlayment can be left in place if a floating engineered wood floor or floating laminate floor system is going to be installed over it. BUT the additional height may pose a problem with doors and appliances. This section of the article was taken from this site: http://www.hoskinghardwood.com/all-abou ... floors.asp

I have been seeing a lot of engineered wood and laminate wood floors installed on top of MDF underlayment. I have always been under the impression that it is not recommended to install wood floors on top of MDF. The manufacturers installation recommendations I have read do not list MDF as a recommended material. Does anyone else write up the installation of wood, laminate, engineered wood flooring on top of MDF as improper or not recommended per manufacturer? If you do, how would you recommend wording it? THANKS

Jim-- Thank you for all the helpful info.

Jim, Walkway steps were written up as a trip hazard (but entire development is like this). Also, there is a driveway that leads to this home (back left of main photo not quite visible). Driveway is 7' 10" wide all the way down to the garage and to the house behind it (can not figure out how the fire dept. will get a fire truck down there-- gonna have to lay a lot of hose. I thought that driveways were typically supposed to be 10-12' wide (someone correct me if I am wrong). I can not figure out how the driveway/ road to rear home was ever approved.

Jim, Home is located in SE Portland (N. of Foster Rd. on 141st (Multnomah or Clackamas County- will have to get a map). Since I am not allowed to disclose anyhing to anyone but my client-- shouldn't I get written permission from the client prior to notifying the building department? As far as the mold guy being a complete idiot, I would not argue that point. Shouldn't the growth be at least evaluated further? I am not sure who the builder is on this home, but would prefer not to inspect his houses in the future. (getting a headache on this one -- you should see their house next door)

AHJ signed off on it from what I was told-- doesn't seem to mean much anymore-- does anyone ever contact them to let them know what they miss?

My recommmendations for repair on the front of the home are to re- grade/ slope where needed, install a proper housewrap where needed and install siding once there is an adequate clearance of 6-8" between the top of the foundation and ground level-- would anyone recommend anything further? Also, regarding their interesting use of a tarp. I am wondering if this is an attempt at water proofing the foundation since the basement I joist framing is sitting on a pressure treated sill bolted to the foundation footing-- my concern with this installation is moisture wicking up off the sill plate onto the I joists-- I have pictures if interested. Slight thread drift-- in the crawlspace of this home there is zero ventilation with 2 mechanical vents blowing air around in the crawlspace (nowhere for air to go). There is some moisture in the crawlspace and heavy dampness on knee wall sheathing and framing throughout with about 3 colors of mold/ mildew type growth. The exposed fasteners throughout (subfloor down) are pretty heavily rusted and have moisture droplets hanging on the fasteners. The insulation is damp/ moist throughout and was actually dripping in some areas on one wall (toward front of home). My recommendations are to remove all subfloor insulation, install a proper ventilation system and dry things out. I also recommended consulting with a mold expert for evaluation/ testing. Am I missing anything? I am pretty worried about liability on this home and want to get as specific as possible for the submitted report. THANKS.

Has anyone ever seen this style of installation where OSB has been damp proofed along with the foundation and a tarp installed over the top?

Inspected a new construction house today. The house is a daylight basement style, but has a crawlspace beneath the lower level. The top of the foundation sits at a lower grade than the street. The foundation has been damp- proofed (tar type substance) due to the living space installed below grade. The majority of the foundation is not visible along the front (street side) of the home- the foundation is covered with housewrap with a standard tarp under the housewrap (tarp such as is used for camping). The Realtor cut back the tarp to see what was behind it and that is when I noticed that the foundation does not appear to extend above grade, and in some areas the OSB wall sheathing is actually damp- proofed behind the tarp. I will try to post pictures of this concern (one of many) and would appreciate any comments on this installation. Download Attachment: .jpg"] 100_0597[2].jpg 53.76 KB Download Attachment: newconstruction.jpg 192.91 KB Download Attachment: newconstruction2.jpg 149.79 KB

I appreciate all of your comments. I have been inspecting homes in the Portland area for about 5 years now. I do read plenty of technical manuals, forums, etc. I realize that I will never know as much as I would like to. The problem is that I often get conflicting info. regarding the proper way to install/ repair etc. I just wanted others opinions (closer to expert than mine) on what to look for, etc. Brandon--

Chris, Thanks for the reply. The Realtor and potential purchaser have both called me on separate occasions to talk about the brick foundation. (have not seen it yet to be sure it is brick) I will post some pics of any concerns after the inspection. -- thanks

Hi Guys, I am scheduled to perform an inspection on a 1904 2 level home today with a brick foundation (basement). The home is located on NW 23rd in Portland. It has been quite a while since I have inspected a brick foundation home. Besides the usual evaluation for drainage concerns, loose bricks and deteriorated mortar joints, cracks/settlement is there anything else I should be keeping a close eye on? If I do locate issues with the foundation, should I recommend a masonry contractor or foundation contractor? Any help would be greatly appreciated- Brandon