Brandon Whitmore

Here is a good article with illustrations that show best practices vs. IRC code requirements for the design of a bathroom. http://starcraftcustombuilders.com/bath ... .rules.htm added: http://www.nkba.com/guidelines/bathroom_3.aspx The bottom link has better illustrations.

I have a question regarding R307.2 in the IRC. I am seeing more and more one piece tub/ shower units where the enclosure is about 4" short of the 6' rule. I contacted a couple of plumber buddies who have never heard of this 6' requirement before. The wording in the IRC says that such wall surfaces (shower enclosures) shall extend to a height of not less than 6' above the floor. I am assuming this is measured from inside the tub (makes sense to me), but are they allowing this 6' measurement to be taken from the subfloor/ floor outside of the tub? I have started to second guess myself since they are manufacturing these units short of 6'. Is it not required to have a shower enclosure extend at least 6' from the standing surface of the tub? If it is required, why are they manufacturing lower shower enclosures?

I have only seen one crawlspace that was covered in concrete. It was a 50's or 60's ranch (er) style crawlspace with foundation vents installed as well. It was very nice.

Jim, it's strange that we work in the same area and I have only seen one sealed/ plenum crawlspace. You can keep them. Just wondering, would this style of construction be more energy efficient overall? Seeing how there are no vents or cool air rushing through the crawlspace sucking out some of the homes heat... I would think so-- could be wrong.

I am pretty happy when I see a 1 or 2" overlap between the siding and step flashing. I don't see how the installation in that picture would be better off with less flashing exposure. I would think that the water would be forced up the several inches measured from the horizontal roof to vertical wall junction, not from where the bottom edge of the siding stops. Not saying it is a good installation or anything.

I inspected a crawlspace in a 1980's Street of Dreams neighborhood that was completely sealed. There was a layer of clear plastic laid on the dirt with pea gravel spread across the plastic. I believe the depth of the gravel was several inches. There were heat registers in each room of the home as typical, but no ductwork. There was an open plenum from the furnace that blew into the crawlspace and entered the home via the registers. This is the only sealed crawlspace (as designed) I have come across. The crawlspace was very nice with no issues whatsoever after 20 years or so. Has anyone else ever run across this design/ style of sealed crawlspace in the NW?

Sorry guys. The link is repaired.

I just wanted you all to know that I contacted The Aluminum Shingle company. They were nice enough to send out a couple copies of their installation training video, as well as some other info. You can contact them at www.aluminumshingle.com, or call them at 877-319-7999 if any of you are interested. I had to contact them for this info., since their installation instructions are not available on- line (at least not that I could find).

Mike, I agree with all comments listed up to now, but Realtors do seem to have a heavy influence on the home inspector used. I have heard of many instances where buyers were swayed into using a specific inspector. For example: I inspected a house that a seller had purchased 2 years prior. I found appx. 20- 30k worth of damage not called out during the sellers purchase (previous inspection). The seller was none too happy of course and swore he would use me in the future. A month later the seller, who had a different Realtor than the last time made an offer on a home. The seller said he already had a good inspector to use, but the Realtor insisted that he should use this other inspector who was "really good". Seller purchases and moves into the home to discover many issues that had not been found during the inspection. Seller ends up being ticked off that he did not use me. No need to go into detail on how I found out about this. Let's just say it ends up being a very small world. Question for you all who have had your own business for over 5 years: What percentage of your home inspections are from Realtor referrals vs. other means? I have only had my own business for 1.5 years, and I would say I get 90 percent of my inspections from Realtors.

I just finished up an inspection with a Realtor I have worked with for years. I have never received a complaint from him even when working on his listings that have sale failed. He even backed me up on one of his 1.5 million dollar new construction listings when a heated debate developed between the Realtors from both sides, the developer, sub contractors etc. during a meeting at the site. Anyways, he just told me that on an inspection I performed this summer, the listing agent called him up and told him that Realtors should stick together to sell houses, and that he should quit using me. The reason.... I found too many issues with the home which caused problems. (I won't even go into the conversation I had with this listing agent right after that inspection). My Realtor also told me that real estate offices have black lists for home inspectors. (I am guessing the other inspector at Mike's inspection was one of the preferred ones) What I was told was very interesting. He said he would start paying attention to find out how well I list on some of those lists. They need to make a law preventing Realtors from recommending home inspectors. There are many good Realtors out there, and I work for them quite often. It is too bad there are so many bad apples out there. Oh well, I guess that goes for every profession.

I already sent him to the BIA website and the code info. I recommended that he have the veneer wall replaced from scratch. I told him that the builder has to comply with at least bare min. code and if there were any arguments, to have the AHJ re- evaluate the veneer for code compliance, etc. What he does with this info. now is up to him.

I just thought I would update you guy's on what has happened so far. My cousin has an architect friend who works mostly on exterior details of buildings. He told my cousin (purchaser), that if they re- sloped the ledge and installed a waterproof sealant to the brick it should be fine. I gave him my opinion regarding this umm repair?.... just thought you all would be interested.

That is exactly what I told the buyer (my cousin), and the Realtor (my aunt). I just spent the last few hours reading through the BIA tech notes and printed a lot of useful info. Tech note # 28 figure 2(d) had some good info. for the concerns posted along with tech note 7.

As always, I greatly appreciate all of your help and comments on here. I will be fighting the builder on this well armed as a result. I almost always tell my new construction client's that the builder will likely say that I am an idiot, and that I do not know what I am talking about. I tell them if that happens, they should call me and let me provide documentation, etc. in order to ensure issues are repaired (properly).

I know that the installation details are not good. I am just having trouble interpreting our OR residential specialty code to have it set in stone (or brick) that the installation is wrong. I am just waiting to have the large builder argue the point as is typical. Thanks for the above info. as well

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Bob, I am not very good at explaining things and was hoping people could somehow read my mind on this. I will post pictures to help explain my concern. Basically, a CMU type footing was installed say 12'' beneath the top of a foundation stem wall and the brick veneer was built up off of that. The current moisture that gets in behind the brick veneer will drain along the back side of the vener (1" cavity type) and run down to the veneer footing/ support where it will likely run into the ground. -- pictures will follow. By the way, a contractor or the mason then faked weep holes, likely to pass inspection. As you will see from the pictures the holes are drilled 1.5- 2" into the brick from the outer face. I know this set up is a poor installation per building standards, I am just hoping to somehow decipher the building codes enough to say the builder is not in compliance with the building codes. The code is so poorly written that I am having trouble doing so. Thanks

I am having trouble interpreting Oregon's residential building code section R703.7.5 "flashing shall be located beneath the first course of masonry above finished ground level above the foundation wall or slab and at other points of support......" And of course then weep holes are required directly above that flashing every 33" etc. I just finished inspecting a home in a new subdivision (all homes in the subdivision appear to have been done the same) where the brick veneer support starts well below the base of the foundation. There are no weep holes installed along the base of this wall above grade. Now, since water draining down the back of the veneer wall will not build up against any wall framing and will likely just drain into the ground, are weep holes really that important at this lower section of brick veneer. The brick on this home runs from just beneath the main floor windows to the ground only. I would like to interpret the code to say that the flashing should be installed at the base of the framed wall (just above the foundation) with weep holes above the flashing every 33" from there. I just can't quite be 100% sure from the wording in the code referenced above. I will post pics of what I am talking about later, but I am running late for an appointment. Thanks for any help---- I want to be 100% sure I am making a proper call regarding this improper installation of materials since the entire large subdivision is installed the exact same way. (I won't name builder's, but it is in NW Wilsonville)

Chris, I am with Randy on this one.... Typically when I run into the soft soil, it is from rotted tree roots/ stumps that were not removed during construction (usually in older homes). If the softness does run beneath the foundation in a large area, I make note of it in the report as a potential concern and recommend additional support (case by case of course). I remember dropping into a hole a couple of feet deep where a stump had rotted out in a tight crawlspace-- kinda freaked me out.

Hi Phillip, When I first pulled up your post, there were no pictures-- dead space only. I was just giving you a hard time-- please don't take it the wrong way.

Hi Fritz , Could you please explain to me why it is a bad idea to run the heat pump in the heating mode when it is over 75 deg. I once was told not to run the heat over a certain temp. with a heat pump. I then spoke with a heating contractor who went over my head with his explanation on why it would not hurt a thing by running the heat pump in heating mode no matter what. If anyone can point me towards some documentation I would appreciate it.

I can't recall seeing that exact style can light before. I thought the transformers were strange as well, but the owner was not around to talk to. (he told me he did all the work himself prior to leaving).

Man, and Chad was complaining about the size of my pic [:-magnify

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