Brandon Whitmore

Thanks Jim

I would never put it past the city of Portland to pump smoke into the sewers and disconnect lines or require it, just haven't seen anything in writing yet.

I did not realize it was allowed to run grey water anywhere but into the sewer. I can see this being just fine in the country, but is it allowed in the city? I can't see why it would cause a problem- is this an option when there is a large backyard such as in the home I inspected?? (light bulb going off) There is a standpipe (older) with a shiny new vent pipe-- P trap questionable. I told them to ensure there was a trap to keep out pests and also told them I was holding the report ransom until I figured out what to recommend for this issue.

Jim, I went onto a website from the city of Portland and read that there were incentives for disconnecting and gave some good alternatives. I never saw where it said that is was required, but you never know. Of course disconnecting the rain drains and installing a drywell or other alternative system would be great, but I get sick of seeing green foot long splash blocks against homes causing serious foundation issues. Out of curiosity, with the installation the way it sits-- completely improper or grey area?

I did explain that they could install a sewage ejection pump if they wanted to move the laundry room into the partial basement. The laundry room is currently in the kitchen on the far W. end of the home (basement), and the rest of the plumbing is on the crawlspace side of the home (far E. end). I was unable to locate any other locations where the laundry room could have been at one time. The home was a flip and many items were covered up so it is hard to say whether the laundry room was moved. (could find no other locations where it could have been and visible plumbing was all original) I told them that the way it sat, it should not cause any harm if it is in fact running to the sewer and not to a storm drain and told them to verify when they have their sewer scope that is scheduled. Regarding the combination rain drain/ sewer. I am not aware of the city requiring the disconnection of rain drains in combination systems, but am under the impression there are incentives for disconnecting them-- please correct me if I am wrong because this will change things greatly if I am wrong.

I inspected a 1950's house this morning where the washing machine drain ran through the exterior wall and drained into the rain drain. Due to the age and location of the home, I believe that the rain drains run into the sewer system as well (combination), but can not be sure. I know on newer construction this would not be allowed, but I am trying to figure out the harm in running the washing machine drain into this rain drain (if they go to the same place anyway). Does anyone have any opinions on this installation? If I recommend repair it will be difficult due to the location of the laundry room to the rest of the DWV system (other side of home in crawlspace-- this on basement side). Thanks

This wiring was "piecemealed" together. About half of the main floor was standard wiring and the other half low voltage-- looked like they were slowly replacing low voltage wiring as things went bad. That being said, I just made a note in the report that it existed and it looked like much of the system had been replaced with 120v, etc. Thanks guys.

In the state Oregon, we are required to note the presence of solenoid type low voltage systems in the report. I am just curious as to what others call out or write in their reports when they observe these sytems (such as for 1950s/ 1960s lighting in the home). Thanks

Thanks Jim-- good site. I really appreciate your offer and will call you tomorrow if I can get done early enough (working out in Silverton).

Also, does anyone add any disclaimers to the report when inspecting a tar and gravel roof?

I have an inspection on a home with a tar and gravel roof coming up on Tues. Does anyone know of any good sites where I can brush up on installation details prior to my inspection? Thanks

Just my humble opinion, but I am not reading it that way. It seems to me that they are trying to say that the AFCI breaker just needs to be listed to protect the entire circuit, not that all outlets in the bedroom must be protected by the same circuit/ AFCI .

I understand how newer systems work, it just appeared to me on this one that the only open pipe entered from the driveway drain (could be wrong). This one looks more like a drywell to me, but probably wrong again. The pipe entering the catch basin appears to slope downward into the basin. Thanks for all the explanations, I think I will just have to assume that the drain I am seeing is for water to exit vs. enter. I wish I had a hose on that job to run water into that drain in the driveway to be sure.

So from what I am understanding, this is a catch basin that just allows water to permeate into the ground beneath the garage? Seems a little odd to me that they would install a catch basin directly beneath the slab(living space directly above garage). There was only one visible pipe that appeared to come from the driveway slab and then the sewer line that ran in there- am I missing anything? I did not see any pipe installed that would prevent overflowing if the moisture could no longer seep into the soils below. Does anyone know of any site I can go to that will let me study up on these?

Does anyone have any idea what this pit would be used for in the garage. It appears to be some type of drainage pit/ sump. The driveway slopes in toward the garage and there is a driveway drain at the base of the garage door. There is a pipe the same size that enters this pit. The sewer pipe runs from the basement into this pit as well. I tried to dig into the base of this thing, but it was full of muck and my screwdriver drove to the hilt. House was built in 1909 Image Insert: 4.33 KB

Randy, IRC says to measure 12" out I believe, but I also believe that the min. depth is 6" from what I am reading.

From what I can gather from the IRC '03, the min. tread depth of a winder should be 6". The tread depth at this stairwell landing/ step is 5" against the railing. Judging from this pic-- am I justified in calling this out a inadequate tread depth, or am I missing something? Image Insert: 3.87 KB

Thanks for all your opinions/ information. Brandon

Thanks Jim. I have walked them in the past only because they already have some visible dings, marks in them, etc. My concern is that this home looks so clean I do not want the homeowner complaining to me that I left marks on the roof. Have you had any problems with leaving any marks when walking them?

R703.8- Approved corrosion resistant flashings shall be installed at all of the following locations: 1)At top of all exterior windowsand door openings in such a manner as to be leak proof, except that self- flashing windows having a continuous lap of no less than 1 1/8" over the sheathing material around the perimeter of the opening, including corners, do not require additional flashing; jamb flashing may also be omittedwhen specifically approved by the building official. Can someone explain to me what they are considering self flashing windows. I am reading this to say that they are considering the nailing flange as a self flashing window.

Brian, Kind of late for you to be up isn't it??

I am scheduled to inspect a home with an aluminum shingle roof. I have never been comfortable inspecting them because of the lack of good access. How many of you would walk an aluminum shingle roof? I am usually concerned with dining the material. I have never been comfortable not walking any roof because of the amount of issues that I see on them that are not visible from the ground/ edges. Hopefully this link will work for a picture of the home through RMLS http://www.rmlsweb.com/v2/public/report ... d4aQ%3D%3D

When I make recommendations for upgrades (when I know it was not required at the time of the inspection), I will write ... recommended safety upgrade, or recommended energy efficiency upgrade-- etc. ---just my way of doing things.

WJ POSTED: "Just to throw a curve: I've had the 13-inch-long, 1-pound Streamlight rechargeables last for 10+ years. Replacement batteries are cheap; and, if I recall correctly, Streamlight will refurb old lights to newish condition for about $40.00." Mag Lites have a lifetime warranty on them and I have had all my past repairs performed for free (even when I offered to pay since I have dropped a couple off roofs and broken the lens-- there is an authorized service center in Portland). NO- I am not affiliated with Mag-- I hope I can find something better.

Alright, I have 2 re- chargeable Mag Lites and 1 Ultra Stinger Ultra that I bought when I was sold on it from a guy at the counter (tested both at Sportmans Warehouse when I needed another flashlight). I have used both and have gone back to the Mag. Must just be personal preference since I used the Mags for several years prior to changing over. I am going to have to look again, but I think that the newer Mags have upgraded to a higher candle power (new bulb design or something).