Brandon Whitmore

That depends on many factors, and there are likely regional differences. If there is good shingle overlap to the gutter and I see no evidence of problems... no

There I was thinking it would be an easy answer... something I was overlooking. Could be anything from a secret air base nearby, to spy cams hidden in the bulb, UFO's... I think I will just ignore it, stay ignorant, and hold my breath. It may be safer that way[:-alien]

I have CFL bulbs in my bedroom fixture. Since I started using these bulbs, I noticed that at least one of the bulbs will faintly flicker on when the lights are off. This happens off and on. At first I thought I was just imaging it. Any ideas? Standard single pole snap switch by the way.

It shouldn't matter either way.

In this case it was a 2x sill. It is just not required to nail the sheathing to the sill if the sheathing does not extend that far down from what I have gathered.

Brandon, those install instructions from Tyvek are pretty much the same as I read from all the different manufacturers. It is pretty much like they all copied each other's wording, or are all owned by the same company. In R703.1 the code states that there must be a means of draining water to the exterior--- water will not drain to the exterior in this instance, so it looks like I can base it off the code. I know manufacturers installation instructions trump the code, but I prefer to use the code since I do not know how manufactured the housewrap. There is no band joist on this installation. There are joist hangers run down off of the sill plate. If they built the wall with sheathing extended down about 1" below the sole plate, that would explain why the sill plate is exposed (1" subfloor). In that case, end nailing requirements would have been met. Brandon and Jim--- thanks for the assistance.

He may have just not been very specific with that since I had several questions for him. He probably just meant that it does not need to be secured to the sill.

I contacted Richard Rogers , the structural program chief for the state of OR. He says that the sheathing should NOT be nailed to the sill plate, because the sheathing will just rip apart (be destroyed in his exact words) if it is.

Jim, your wording is always easily understood. It is not just 602 that confuses the heck out of me. Maybe if the code books were written in a way that were easily understood, builders would not have so many violations due to ignorance of the code, and we wouldn't have so many problems in construction nowadays If you get a chance, will you meet up with the ICC and give them some pointers? Or heck, if you will re- write the code book, I'll buy the first copy.

R602.10.8 is the closest code reference so far. It does not specifically state that the sheathing needs to be secured to the sill plate. So, if the subfloor is properly secured to the sill plate and the sole plate is properly secured to the subfloor.... shouldn't there be resistance to racking whether or not the sheathing is nailed into the sill plate?

I could see a good inch of the sill plate in areas. They could have run their nails at an angle (not ideal). Also, they could have nailed through the subfloor , sill plate together. ' It is joist construction, with joist hangers run off of the sill plate (subfloor at sill level). I know this is a questionable installation.... how would you word this concern in the report?

I would have thought so, but haven't found a code reference requiring this-- yet. (there are so many issues with the home that I got permission from the buyer to withhold the report for an extra day while I do more research. Do you have a code reference by chance? Also, I can't be sure the sheathing is not nailed towards the top of the sill plate. I had to get into a pretty precarious position to be able to see the sill plate. That is one thing I would hope would have been caught during the framing inspection..... on second thought......

Has anyone seen any installation instructions allowing housewrap to not overlap the sill plate? The new construction home I inspected today had wall sheathing extend down to the top of the sill plate and that is where the WRB ended. I am going to throw it in my report as questionable, and not likely allowed unless anyone has any info. to the contrary. My concern is that moisture that gets in behind the siding will run down onto the sill plate instead of draining beyond the top edge of the foundation. Anyone have any easy repair ideas for this?

Mike, I usually just see the clear or whitish plastic, but in this case it was a little thicker-- more permeable looking though... more like a weather resistive barrier look to it. Worst case scenario with the air leaks, what would you expect to occur?

New construction inspection. The builder installed unfaced batt insulation in the rafter cavities in the knee wall area. The batt insulation is then covered over with a white plastic type membrane-- pictures will follow. I am curious as to how to be sure there is the required gap between the insulation and roof sheathing. I already know they did this wrong , at least in some areas---- several of the eave vents screens are blocked by the insulation as visible at the exterior of the home. Also, what is the best way to air seal openings / gaps in the plastic membrane, such as where the B vent and plumbing vent pipes penetrate? Image Insert: 2.85 KB Image Insert: 4.21 KB Image Insert: 3.95 KB

Looks like perlite to me too. They use it in greenhouses to mix in with potting soil, etc. (I don't think it has a high R- value, but could have just been lying around).

Ahaa. I tell people I will only do it on a Monday or Friday so I can extend a weekend for the same reasons.... I know where to refer the coastal inspections now though. I usually only do them for people that insist on having me do the inspection, unless it is dead slow.

Just curious Jim, Do you do inspections at the coast?

It was an associate of applied science degree. You go to college full time and work full time when not in classes. It has been quite a while. I can tell you some of the courses that were taken. Fire Investigation, Fixed Systems and extinguishers(sprinkler systems),Fire Physics, Fire Hydraulics, Building Construction for Fire Protection, Anatomy & Physiology (for the EMT stuff), Fire Law, Weather courses ,etc. It was a pretty cool gig for a while, but I got burned out with all the medical work and politics, so I said screw it.... and here I am. (anyone want some books?) I assisted in some arson investigations on the structure side, but there were arson investigation teams from the state fire marshal's office that did most of that---- some of those guy's are sharp. I performed more arson investigation work in the years I did wildland fires while working for the state... I mostly just put the stuff out. (I actually got paid to cut burning trees down... pretty cool job).

I've got a degree in Structural Fire Science.... Paper on insulation in a home would be my last concern.

Good call... and thanks for making sure.. I could have overlooked it. I pulled the fan cover off and checked inside. The wiring is spankin' new yellow sheathed Romex. I have a feeling the old wiring was fried.

hmnmmm...... I'll see if I can get something goin here. With proper overlap of shingles on rake and eave dripedges, I say flashing is not needed. Many roofs in my area do not have flashing at either location, and no problems arise.

Agreed.

Regarding the exposed paper being a fire hazard.... I am curious as to how it poses more of a fire hazard than any other combustibles in the house? Once fire has hit that material, there are other problems. The only way I can see that being a problem is if the paper is acting as the tinder to start the fire, but I can't figure out what would lead to the paper catching fire. What is the reasoning behind the fire hazard concern?

Stuff like that has always been thrown in the report, I just don't get too carried away with my wording, unless it looks like it is causing a problem.