Brandon Whitmore

From what I know it is a custom factory made roof covering. I believe it is one of the only flat roof system's out there that will not void their warranty with standing water on the roof. The one's I have seen have looked good. Tougher than any other roofings? Depends on who you talk to. I would just say it is a good product.

Link to roof/ gutter pictures: http://www.HomeGauge.com/report/605303 I didn't get many pictures of the flat roof, by the time I got to the flat roof, I had a Realtor call a qualified roofer who happened to be in the area-- he finished the inspection...... I'd seen enough. There is probably about 500-- 800 sq. ft. of flat roof not shown. I just received word that the original roofer does sheet metal work as well, and plans on repairing the current gutter system while replacing the roof. Oh Great

What's a copper/ coated steel roof?[:-slaphap I can't tell you the last time I saw one on a larger flat roof area. I just got final permission to upload part of the report with the roof/ gutter system-- the link will be in the next post.

Now that everyones weighed in on this, I need to find out where the heck I got my answer from.

25 feet rings a bell. Otherwise there is supposed to be a meter main/ exterior panel--- that is based on my memory and or course I am not an electrical guru.

Crap, I'd better look that one up-- I see them used all the time and can't stand them, but did not realize I could cite code. Randy and Jim-- thanks for letting me know 30# felt is required on 40 year roofs-- anyone know why? Tapered insulation board... gotcha. Yankee gutters= built in gutters. Learned something new again. Once again, thanks to all of you for the help/ education. I would have referred them to a roof expert to specify materials and repairs, but who is an expert these days? That is of course, besides my panel of experts on TIJ.

Randy or Kurt, Let me know if it would help to forward you a copy of the report (with the buyer's permission) to see the roof details, and gutter system. Otherwise, I could post a couple pics.

Anyone have any experience with the Certainteed Flintlastic SA System with the Nailable Base,interply Base,and Granulated Cap Sheet. It is supposed to carry a better warranty Than most torch down(10 Yr) Systems,with A 15 Year System When All 3 Plys Are used.

Thanks for replying Kurt. Why 30# I never even thought to specify the brand. I am actually not even being paid for the work I am putting into this right now. They are going to hire me to do phase/ quality of workmanship inspections when the time is right. Thanks, I don't have much experience with ice and water shield in this area, but do have some experience with WR Grace. Competent tradesman for built in gutters in this area? [:-slaphap I haven't seen another built in gutter system in over 2 years I just think built in gutter systems are more problematic and would prefer not to see one. That may be due to the fact I have never seen a "competent tradesman" install a system yet. Where's the dripedge (I specified dripedge metal at rake and eave areas). I don't think that is what you are referring to though. I have pictures of the current system if that would help? I have very little expertise when it comes to flat roofs. On residential systems they are really uncommon out here. I pretty much have to re- educate myself on a given system during/ after an inspection. I just use common sense on an inspection of these roofs and almost always find so many flaws I can punt to a roofer. The roofer specified that they were going to use " torch down", and tell you the truth that is what I was trained to call it. I will have to do more research on ventilation systems/ requirements for a flat roof area, because I can't answer your question. There is zero ventilation at these locations at this time. Man, I am going to have to start charging for this with the amount of time I put into it.

I am in the middle of specifying roof repairs / replacement of a 1.3 million dollar home built in 1890 right now. The upper level roof with about a 10/ 12 slope is to have a 40 year comp. shingle roof installed. I recommended they upgrade to a 40 year roof because of the complexity of the roof system. I recommended they install ice and water shield at all dormers, rake/ eave dripedges, and in all valley areas. I recommended they upgrade to 1/2" CDX plywood vs. OSB. I recommended the use of nails instead of staples (they actually complained about this one) I recommended they remove the corroded galvanized built- in gutter system with a standard system to save the soffits from further damage. I recommended they comply with all current ventilation standards with 50% ventilation at eave/ soffit areas and 50% at the ridge. They offered to upgrade to a 30 lb. felt paper instead of 15 lb. I am pretty sure that is money wasted-- anyone? Now for the flat roofs areas. There are numerous shed roof and roof deck areas on the home. They are wanting to replace the current torch down comp. roof with the same (properly installed this time). It has a very limited/ minimal slope with evidence of slight pooling in areas. I am not a big fan of torch down. For the Pacific NW, what do you guys recommend be used (I would like to see a PVC type membrane that warrants against standing water on the roof areas). It is in writing that the roofer comply with current building code, all manufacturers installation instructions, and with either the ARMA or NRCA standards (their choice on that one). The roofer is being required to comply with the most stringent of the requirements when there are conflicting requirements. The reason I am now involved in this is that I inspected the roof during the home inspection. The roof installation was a complete hack job with improper lay- outs, missing flashing, etc. There were a min of 4 layers of roofing material, ventilation standards were not met, etc. The roofer has agreed to re- roof the home and deduct his labor from the price, since he improperly installed the roof to begin with. I tried to specify that the roof not be re- roofed by the same roofing contractor, but that one would not work in this case. Any input would be appreciated as I don't usally get involved in actually specifying materials, etc. By the way, the purchaser is more than willing to pay for any upgrades.

I recommend that you speak with your accountant. Some things depend on the way your business is set up.

Thanks Tom, buttttt this wasn't found during an inspection. I may have been up in the tree with a chainsaw and may have seen the entire thing go down [:-taped]. The guy who was supposed to be holding tension on the rope forgot (insert sound of beer can opening here) to hold onto the rope for the very last branch of the day. The branch just barely swung into the roof and we did not think much of it until I went down to check the shingles for any scuffs. I found one scuffed shingle and then noticed it had hit right on the truss chord. There is no damage to the plywood sheathing, and just a neat split in the top chord. So, let's just say this was not discovered during the course of an inspection.

Mike, That is one ugggly bumpout.... actually make that one ugly house.

This could be good news for us. More appraisers may place a contingency requirement that the home must be inspected as part of the home purchasing process. I would think this would help limit their liability.

Either way, it does not appear to be 3' through the roof as it should be.

I love those panels that have pins(?) holding the deadfront in place. It just makes my job that much easier/ safer.

The panel is back- fed. The service wires run to the breaker and the breakers supply power to the bus bars. The breakers must be secured in place so they can't pop free. If that breaker popped off the bus, the breakers would still be hot which would be a pretty good safety issue.

Based on memory the requirement for a chimney is the 10-2-3 rule. For a B vent, there is no 10-2-3 rule. The requirement is based on the slope of the roof (min. 12"). The 2' above the roof line within 10' applies when there is a sidewall within 8' horizontal feet of a sidewall. I am still not fully convinced that the B vent needs to be extended..... I am curious as to why there is a requirement to go 2' above any point within 8' horizontally of a sidewall, when there is only a 12" requirement elsewhhere. The only thing I can think of is that there would be a chance of venting back through an eave vent or window?? Anyone have an idea or answer?

Hi Patrick, I use Home Gauge software and really like it. Some inspectors do not like the "canned" look, but it seems to work really well for me and can be customized pretty easily. I'm sure they still have a free trial so you can play with it, etc. Customer service is second to none. Having said that, you might want to look at Inspect Express by DevWave software as well.. they sponsor this site and I hear they are pretty good.

Kurt originally posted I have a friend who had a large tree branch fall onto his roof, which cracked/ split one of his top chords of a truss. I let him know what he would technically have to do to have a repair designed, but........ I also told him I thought that gluing the top chord together just might be a really good repair. What do you all think?

Thanks Bill, I'm going on 14 hours straight , and the brain ain't workin too well......

Sorry-- having trouble uploading the image Image Insert: 987.33 KB

2006 IRC: Does M1602 Exception 2.3 apply? I am looking for a reason to write up this furnace return air duct above the wood stove. It is one of 3 return air ducts in the home for a new electric funace install (older return air). The house was built in 1978. Image Insert: 70.77 KB

Me neither, must be a North Dakota thing.

I have to agree, just wish I didn't. She probably has the best of intentions, but there is always that one bad apple.....