Brandon Whitmore

Can anyone tell me how long the installation of through wall flashing and weep holes have been required, specifically in the state of OR? I still am yet to see a house that is detailed the way it shows on BIA.org.... new homes or older.

Brian, I was taught the same thing a few years back at a training seminar.

WHOOPS

I am sure many of you already know about this, but for those who don't http://www.nfpa.org/freecodes/free_acce ... ?id=7008SB

http://ecmweb.com/grounding/electric_sh ... grounding/

Mike, Jodi's first post stated she could see felt in several areas already-- that is why I posted that.

That roof looks like shingles to me. Didn't know felt paper was supposed to be used on a shingle roof-- if the roof can't breathe it would rot out the shingles faster (or like Jim said.. they are the thinnest shakes I have ever seen). I am a fan of skip sheathing instead of a solid decking as well (for shake or shingle)

The toughest part will be to fasten the dripedge in place. If the shingles are pretty new, you can bend the shingles up without causing damage during warmer weather, and just slide the eave dripedge into place. As far as fastening goes, I would probably get some self tapping screws and try to secure the flashing on the exposed face. The rake edge will not be so easy because of the location of fasteners-- good luck on that one. Disclaimer: I have never installed dripedge flashing after the fact.

I've actually done that... with the owners extension cord--- there was nooo way to get to the GFCI without spending a couple of hours moving items.

Around here it would most likely be located in the garage behind a bunch of crap (typical in the 80's era homes--- 1900's that is ). It is almost always in the garage when the GFCI controls the exterior, bathroom, and garage outlets. whoops... just saw where you posted from-- search the garage walls really well.

My vote's for solid wood.

Be there soon..........

Hey Erby, I can see your hands, but where the heck is the rest of you body[:-magnify

Crap... I may not even be born yet...... who's doing all my reports?

Thanks Jim. I've seen stains such as those and worse in some nasty rentals where the condensation rotted out sheathing and rafter tails as well. (above bathrooms). I see more signs of leakage more often than not with replacement windows, where the original windows are plumb with the siding/ wall plane and they don't install flashing.

What are some other causes of water stains see at the top of vinyl windows besides leakage at the windows. The stains I am referring to are where you typically see a few tan/ brown water droplet marks along the interior top edge of the windows. (head area track).

No gable vents. It had plenty of eave vents and can vents right up at the ridge.. ventilation looked great, which is what is throwing me off. I did not calculate the air balance between upper and lower ends, but it looked pretty good. Thanks Mike-- I'll recommend they have a roofer try to figure out what is going on and/ or add ventilation.

I just did a 1996 single level ranch style home. Roof slope is about 5:12 (lots of attic air volume), housewrap looked like kraft paper, plywood sheathing, good ventilation, etc. Home sat on a fairly level lot with decent grading. The crawlspace soils were well covered with 6mil black plastic and the crawlspace was dry. Along the perimeter of the attic there is mold/ mildew growth that is black/ gray in color... not too thick. The growth starts at the insulation line and extends up a few feet. There is an eave vent every 3rd truss bay with no growth in those bays. There are water droplet stains on the vinyl windows at the head areas of the tracks along the E. end of the home (kitchen, bedroom areas). Seeing as how this is a single level ranch home with good eave overhangs, I see no way that flashing would matter at the windows as they are not exposed to the elements== I am ruling out improper flashing as a potential cause of the moisture stains. I am pretty much stumped as to why there is mold growth in the attic with the water stains on some of the windows. By the way-- the worst mold staining is on the E. end of the attic above the windows with the stains. Anyone have any ideas? This one has me stumped. Oh yeah-- the vapor barrier is installed so the top edge of the barrier is secured to the sill plate at the top of the foundation stem wall-- this is a pretty typical installation for newer homes in this area. I was thinking that maybe condensation from the ground is migrating up to the vapor barrier, and moisture is entering the wall cavity where it condenses on the attic sheathing. Possible? This building science stuff gives me a headache.

Neal, I use it so little, that I am not sure. Dang... I just hucked the box out the other day when cleaning my shop. I bought the package at Sportsmans Warehouse and it came with the charger or chargers (I will have to check), and the flashlight.... I'll get back to you when I get back into town.

Find out if contractors did the work in the basement and try talking to them.

I've got 2 re- chargeable mags and one ultra stinger. I have used the ultra stinger just a few times and don't like it much.. Anyone want to trade an ultra stinger for a re-chargeable mag?

Thank You

Hey Mike, Do you know if OR and WA will have home inspector license reciprocity agreements between the states?

Ouch... I got all excited until I saw how much it would cost.

Shoot, I was just thinking I only had the flue virus.