Brandon Whitmore

It was an estate inspection.... they wanted to know what to fix prior to sale. If it was on the market, I would expect to see a painting incorporating the singed material, or a heavy coat or primer and paint. [:-slaphap

Brandon, do the roofers install the shingles on the rake edges horizontally or vertically? Many roofers in this area will lay the shingles vertically along the rake edges to get a nice straight line at the rake. Could just be a regional difference.

This is a pic taken in a bathroom of a 1960's home. The fan in the picture is new-- can't figure out what happened to the old one..... Image Insert: 37.74 KB

I agree with Brian. The shingles do not look that old.... I can't tell from the pictures why there are cracks present. Also, the original layer of shingles on the rake edges don't look worn (look newer)- -it's got me stumped.

The weep holes are supposed to be installed directly above through wall flashing. You can't just drill the holes through the brick. The flashing acts as a ledge and forces water to drain out of the weep holes. The weep holes are directly above the flashing. The finished grade level should have been installed beneath the weep holes. Installation details can be found at the BIA.org website, I think it was tech note 7, but I'll have to look it up. Check the links below for installation details/ diagrams http://bia.org/html/frmset_thnt.htm http://bia.org/html/frmset_thnt.htm

What Kurt says makes sense, and I see the same thing. Not to get too picky or anything, but there is supposed to be an uncaulked gap between that flashing and fiber cement siding above the belly band/ water table as well. The installation details can be found on- line at Certainteed's website, or Hardi- Plank's website depending on the manufacturer of the siding.

The way these codes are written irritate me. So what you guy's are saying, is that the 2x6 rafters are potentially oversized for the span? Since they potentially could have gotten by with 2x4 rafters, they can use a 2x4 purlin (if that is the case)? Am I reading into that correctly? My brain is starting to hurt reading into these dang codes. I don't see many purlins used in these parts on newer construction, is it common in other areas?

Why not just say "have all damage, etc. professionally repaired" and leave it at that. Or "have all damage repaired by proper, licensed professionals"

I just put "have a qualified, licensed professional perform the necessary repairs" It covers any trade.

Randy Said: "The bad is my dollar/hour ratio is drastically reduced. In fact, that's real bad" I am in the same boat--- time to start charging more.

Thanks Guys, I went ahead and wrote it up anyway's. I just made a note of the fact that it is a safety concern to be aware of whether or not a violation.

I carry a long screwdriver, and use the handle side when possible. If it is full of water (above the float), it is not working as intended. Often, it is only because the float is jammed against the sump/ bucket.

Here is a link that compares the costs of different types of water heaters. http://www.aceee.org/consumerguide/waterheating.htm Also, Roto- Rooter has a deal going on in Oregon (through the Energy Trust of Oregon) through the end of April where you can get a 50 gal. Marathon water heater installed for $765.00. That is only about double the price of other inefficient models. I have not seen a better price, but am still looking.

Jim, What kind of mileage do you get?

Thanks Jim

How many of you guy's that carry a 24' or larger extension ladder have a smaller rig that gets good gas mileage. (I need my 24' extension ladder, unless there is a telescoping ladder that goes that high now) Eric--- with curves like that, she has to be aerodynamic

Is there anything in the code book that says you can not install a panel in a stairwell. This morning's 1940 house had the panel installed in the stairwell on an outside wall. Picture a basement stairwell, with the top 4 steps being winders (panel between winders and straight run), turning and heading to the basement. There is no landing in front of the panel. Allowed or not, I say this is a stupid installation. I thought the intent of the code for working clearances was so a person working on the panel had room to jump clear in case of emergency. I would not want to see someone fall backwards down the steps while working on the panel. The panel was updated in '00 with permits pulled, and the installation was signed off by the city.

To not get too off topic or drift too much, I will provide my own advice on getting a rig. Find a vehicle that gets the best gas mileage possible, sits low enough to not have to reach overhead to pull a ladder (it gets old), and be sure it is presentable. You need to make good first impressions every day. I have a canopy on my truck right now, I figure it helps with gas mileage as well as a bed rail cap... could be wrong.

The electric on- demand water heater I found said to allow for 120 amps for the water heater alone -- based on memory from yesterday's reading. [:-bigeyes

Does anyone have any experience with these new high efficiency water heaters that have a lifetime warranty? I am thinking about putting one in my place, but figured I would ask here first http://www.marathonheaters.com/

Jim, excuse my ignorance, but is that a Scion? Also, would I have any problems securing a 24' extension ladder to a rig such as that? With the way gas prices are, I am thinking about purchasing something that gets better mileage than my Titan (13 mpg[:-yuck])

When water is shut off to the home, I show the realtor's how to turn the water on, and provide the tools necessary. I let them know what to look out for, check, etc. ,and place all of the liability on them (I hope). When breakers are shut off, I do the same. Does anyone see anything wrong with this approach?

I may be getting a little picky, but I say that the pipe is designed to carry water (rain water). If the pipe is in that bad of shape where visible, who's to say there aren't other spots hidden spots that are deteriorated? I agree with the majority-- pipe should be replaced

Thanks for all of your help and info. regarding this issue. The builder's head mason evaluated the home and has agreed to repair the improper weep holes, flashing, etc. I just wonder if it will be done right this time, and if they plan on repairing the hundred's of homes in the subdivision that were done the same way.....

I saw that too, it's driving me nuts not knowing for sure. Oh well, I will figure it out sooner or later-- I think I'll just go golfing and try to forget about it for a while-- it's eating up my weekend.