Brandon Whitmore

Does anyone have a good way of writing up all the standard defects in a paragraph that I can use in my reports?

I did not check this requirement prior to posting this either, but I read that it is allowable to fill the required air space with mortar instead of leaving an air space. (pretty tough to evalute during inspection for me).

Correct me if I am wrong, but doesn't the IRC allow the installation of brick veneer without weep holes and flashing above / below windows if there is a nailing flange at the windows (with a WRB)? I have had some trouble deciphering this requirement.

When you guys talk about the mag lite, are you talking about the re- chargeable ones or the standard ones. I still have not seen any other flash light that puts out better light for its size than my re- chargeable Mag.

John, I am sure you already know this since you just threw out the life expectancy of a roofing shingle to have a number for your report. 3 tab comp. asphalt shingles typically have a 20-25 year life expectancy and architectural comp. shingles can run 25-50 years depending on the shingle. - just an FYI. One part of determining whether there is life left in the comp. roofing is checking for the shingles flexibility by bending a corner (if it snaps.. no good unless it is better cold outside). Keep in mind that I am in OR and there may be regional differences. I am sure someone will jump in if this is the case.

Thanks Mike, I'll have to brush up on that one.

Along the same lines-- there are many homes out there where a horizontal trim is installed above windows, etc. and no flashing is installed. I can not find anything in the code books requiring it (so if flashing is there this is how it should be done per manufacturer). Now if flashing is omitted, what then? Do you just recommend keeping all horizontal trim very well caulked? What I do is write it up as a poor installation of materials and consider the trim to be a dissimilar siding material (flashing is required at dissimilar siding materials per IRC from what I make of it). Now since the code only says flashing is required (at windows) at dissimilar siding materials, how do you guys write that up since there is (supposed to be) flashing behind the siding/ trim at nailing flange areas? Now on installations where horizontal trim nailed to a panel siding after all siding is installed (and is then decoratice), how do you write it up since it WILL trap water and cause damage (unless Hardi plank which I have never seen damaged at these areas)?? Any help would be appreciated, because I am a deal kill and too picky apparently.

How many of you out there are writing up hardi plank and panel siding in contact with horizontal flashing (and almost always caulked) as an improper installation per manufacturers installation instructions? I have been writing this up as an improper installation on just about every home I inspect (seems to be the most common siding on newer construction). I have not gotten any complaints from a customer, but have been chewed out , etc. by builders and realtors for calling this out (because it is the way it is done). I included a link to their installation instructions for the panel siding (they also call for a 2" clearance from the roofing to the siding that I write up in the reports). It seems to me that I am reading everything properly and there should be a 1/4" gap with no caulk at all flashing areas. Am I missing something?http://www.jameshardie.com/pdf/hardipanelinstall.pdf

They fight similar to halibut if that helps any...

Thanks Mike

Mike, Would it be considered conditioned space even though it is sealed off from living space?

I inspected a house today that originally had a low sloped roof. A new scissor truss system was installed over this existing roof and R-38 batt insulation was installed on top of the original layer of roof (so there is now a void between the ceiling and insulation above). Are there any problems with this installation that I should be aware of?

I am not sure about the state of WA, but the state of OR has all building codes posted online (read only documents)--http://www2.iccsafe.org/states/oregon/

Was looking at the B vent installation instructions from a topic posted in 2005 and noticed a 12" connector rise requirement. Not sure if this applies https://www.inspectorsjournal.com/forum ... 20Vent.pdf (page 4 #

Mike, Not sure if this helps any, but it does seem to show how to date the furnace with the serial number http://icpindexing.mqgroup.com/document ... Notice.pdf

Jim, No building paper visible behind the siding on any homes checked. I am not finding anything that specifically requires building paper to be used along with the foam. The IRC does not cover any of this and I believe the foam can be used as a WRB (not best practices though). Am I missing something?

Jim, Once again, Thanks (yes it was the little coiled white wire)

Mike, I could not get any pictures of this issue because of the lack of access to the area-- wish I could have. Siding was Hardi lap Jim, You are amazingly correct- it was Legend Homes that built the homes and it was Legend Homes that installed the engineered wood floor on the particle board in my last post. I went onto some manufacturers websites trying to get some information on specific requirements. At least one of the websites specified that you should ensure you use a long enough piece of foam to completely cover the sill plate. My concern is that water getting behind the Hardi lap siding will drain down onto the sill plate, etc.

Just did an inspection for a one year warranty. Typical meter main installation with a distribution panel in the garage. The neutral and ground bus bars were not bonded together, but the neutral wires running off the AFCI breakers were attached to the ground bus bar. This seems like an improper installation to me, but was wired by an electrician and signed off by the city inspector. -- can anyone tell me whether or not this is allowed? Thanks

I inspected a house with blue foam sheathing panels. There is a piece of flashing that is sandwiched between the siding and foam and wraps down beneath the sheathing (so you can only see the foam at foundation level if you bend out the flashing). The foam only extends down to the TOP of the sill plate. I am having trouble finding specific standards for installation this foam sheathing, but shouldn't the sheathing run down below the bottom edge of the sill plate to ensure water that gets behind the siding sheds away from the sill plate/ framing? I checked a couple other homes in the neighborhood and this installation is the same throughout (subdivision built in 2000). Any help would be appreciated. P.S. - there is no visible wall sheathing or housewrap on this application

Jim, I have not seen the application of engineered wood floors directly to underlayment cause any problems yet. If I find anything from a good source stating that it is not allowed or recommended, I will post it here. Thanks for your time, Brandon

Jim, My only concern would be whether the glue will slowly pull away (pop) from the particle board during years of walking on, mopping, etc. (fasteners don't hold well to it so maybe glue will not hold well to it). I have read several different manufacturers installation instructions and so far have not seen particle board listed as a recommended material to install engineered wood floor to.

Jim, Based on the printed instructions in the above post, would you write up the installation as being improper? Nothing specifically says that particle board is a suitable material. Sorry-- instructions are a little blurry. The Realtor has told me that he has received a letter from the manufacturer stating that this installation is fine.

"And don't rely on a letter from the manufacturer either. I've found that manufacturers will write anything in a letter if it puts them in the builder's good graces. You need to find the manufacturer's printed installation instructions. " Jim, If the manufacturer puts something in writing stating that it is an acceptable installation for their material, wouldn't that make it acceptable?

Download Attachment: LEGENDHOMES.pdf 253.97 KB The builder is Legend Homes-- EkoWood manufactured flooring What I typically put in my report is something along these lines: "The glue down installation of engineered wood flooring on top of particle board underlayment is atypical. I recommend getting a copy of the installation recommendations from the manufacturer to determine whether or not this is an acceptible or recommended practice"-- Should I not make a note of an unusual installation in my reports if the installation is questionable and I have no way of knowing who the manufacturer is? Once again-- thanks Jim