Brandon Whitmore

I guess I can't recall seeing that style. Judging by the width of the shingle blown up, I would have called it 3 tab.

I didn't call the roofer to "explain myself". I called the roofer to find out what was really said, since I figured the homeowner misinterpreted the discussion. The homeowner just happed to be right. I called the seller/ homeowner to ensure my client had the roof properly repaired as requested in the addendum.

I stand by my statement that 3 tab is crap.............. anyone have any pictures of newer blown off architectural shingles.. shingles that are within 20 years old. (excluding natural disasters)

I haven't installed or measured 3 tab in a while, but shingles are around 36-39 1/4" wide per section. Figure that each 3 tab is 12" wide (width between each keyhole/ groove) and that should give you a good idea of how far that B vent is from the wall. This is based on memory, but should be really close.

PEX is not allowed for that use. The only PEX type material I have seen listed for that use actually says so on the pipe (you can buy a stick of it at Home Depot, I believe the lettering is red/ pinkish).

That doesn't get my confidence up regarding identifying the material--

It's definitely a judgement call on an older roof, especially on crap 3 tab. I will go around looking for a looser than typical or loose shingle, one near the top of the ridge, or one pretty well protected from moisture. Often I find enough other issues with a roof I will not even worry about checking for proper placement of fasteners. I probably find issues with 90% of the roof's I inspect, and that goes for new construction as well. Question for others in the NW, when is the last time you saw a arch. comp. shingle blown off?

That's the weird thing. The seller just ended up being caught in the middle of this. I think that either the roofer has had problems with inspector's in the past, or he is off his meds. There's no other logical explanation for the way he reacted as soon as I questioned him on it. Maybe he talked to the roof and the roof told him I hurt it........... The seller just wanted for me to tell him what to do. He asked me if I would fix it, and then asked me for my roofer's number so he could get this taken care of. The seller was really polite/ cool over the phone and didn't really sound like he was upset or blaming me at all. He was just passing on the info. that his roofer told him. It's definitely a first for me to have a contractor not want the work, and sound offended for being asked to do such a repair.

I'm not quick on plumbing code references either, but I would say it is wrong (code). For your report, just write the fact that flexible drain lines will plug up easier, drain poorly, and that smooth walled drain pipes should be used. To heck with the code when it comes to common sense.

The only concern I am aware of with properly peeling up shingles is the blow off potential. On newer shingles on a warm/ hot day the shingles pretty much seal right back down. I can't see how peeling up a corner is a leakage issue (unless you aren't careful and tear the seal off the shingle below), as the overlap and slope is what sheds the water. Water will run down at the joints and seep in behind the seal anyway's, that is why the fasteners should not be close to the seams/ joints. I agree with you that sealing down 3 tab shingles (if they don't self seal) would be a good idea due to blow- off issues, but I can't tell you the last time I saw a 30 year roof shingle blow off. (I'm sure it has happened). I'm just throwing out my opinion/ take on this to see what others think, thanks for the reply Phillip. Also, how many of you guy's out there will peel up shingles to check for proper fastener placement, etc.? Just making sure I am not the only one.

I received a call from my Realtor today. She requested that I call the seller to explain my concerns with the roof. I called the seller, who proceeded to tell me that his roofer had read my report, and told him that I should replace and repair at least part of it for him. The seller let me know that the roofer said that the only repairs that were needed were caused by me. Yeahhh This is on a 5 year old home with a arch. comp. roof. (temp- about 78 deg) On many of my inspections of newer homes I will carefully peel up the edges of a couple of shingles to check for proper fasteners, fastener placement, etc. What did I find when I peeled a couple of shingles up......... staples (not allowed). Also, improper staple placement. This all came about because I told my clients that they needed to repair the improper starter course installation where the shingle joints on the starter/ first course were lining up. I just figured the seller was confused so I called the roofer. I asked him what was said, and he actually started getting abusive/ irritable and told me I damaged the roof and would be responsible for repairs. (he was not the original roofer by the way). I stayed calm and let him know that on a hot day the shingle would seal right back down. He disagreed and said peeling up the shingle instantly damaged the shingle. I asked him for anything from a reptable source to back this up. We finally agreed to disagree. (10 minute conversation back and forth-- a little heated) I then discussed the starter course issue with him. He told me that to try and fix this issue would just disturb the shingles and would cause more harm than good. I stayed calm and questioned him on it. He said that it had caused no problems up to now, and shouldn't in the future. I asked for a guarantee in writing, and he said he would tell my client's the same thing. Arghhh I started wondering if I was crazy, so I called the most knowledgeable roofer I know in my area. At least he was with me. Nothing like a pissing match in the morning to get the day going.

Man, that would mean we would have to pop back out of this slump soon. Was it this bad the last couple of times? Of you inspector's inspecting during the last downturn, was it this slow then as well? Reason I ask, I have a pretty good opportunity to go to work with a large commercial HVAC company. The guy's say working for the company is just like owning your own business without all of the headaches. The pay would be about the same as it is doing HI work when business is good.

Can't say I have ever seen a mammal cause that much structural damage. Impressive

Chris, Thanks for the reply. The closest up pic is the one in my second post. You probably know this, but you can click on that picture to enlarge it-- it's the best one I took for a close- up.

I agree, Thanks for the info. Bill

Les, Thanks for the answer I did not want to hear [:-bigmout

I do agree-- wire nuts are the way to go. The argument is that even if the tape falls off, the open wire is terminated in a plastic junction box. I'll keep searching for a code source. Thanks Kevin.

Anyone know the best way to remove paint from comp. shingles and mod. bit. roofing materials without damaging the roofing? The painter wanted to brush the mod. bit lightly with a wire brush and then pressure wash lightly--- my answer was @!#* NO. The painter also wanted to just lightly spray the black roofing with a black spray paint to cover over the white paint, jeesh. I'd rather they just left the paint in place than do any of the above. This is on my consulting job with the built in gutters. Thanks,

Walter, If I promise not to share your report with another soul, would you let me read one of your old report's?

Yes

I found a bare wire in a home a while back. The bare wire was just taped over with electrical tape and placed into a junction box. I do not like this installation, and believe there should be wire nuts installed to cap off the bare wires. Anyone know for sure whether just wrapping the end in electrical tape is allowed? Better yet, will someone point me toward the proper code reference.?

Can't say I've ever seen one of those roof vents before. It's strange how things differ geographically.

I did a new construction inspection about 2 weeks ago. The house was sided with Hardie Plank. I wrote up some installation issues with the siding, the main one being over- driven fasteners. The builder was offended and thought he would get the siding rep. out to bless the installation. The new house is proudly showing off it's 2nd new siding system--- they ripped it off and started over. [:-bigeyes OUCHHHH....... This is the first time I have heard of a factory rep. not saying "yeah it's wrong, buttttt........."

I have seen manufacturer's with minimums down to 8" from the wall (8 and 10" this last week).........

Richard, Thanks for posting that picture... I started sneezing as soon as I looked at it. [:-slaphap