Brandon Whitmore

Thanks for the reply Scott.......should have just uploaded this picture first. The filter is tight in it's slot against the furnace, but not on the incoming return air side. Image Insert: 61.57 KB

I just got done inspecting a geothermal heat pump installed in a high rise condo. http://www.climatemaster.com/index/res_ ... ity27_page The heat pump is the tranquility 20. The heat pump is located in the laundry room while the return air is located in the hallway outside this room. Question: does it matter that the filter slot is wide open, and that some of the return air is being pulled from the laundry room? The way they installed these systems, there is about a 1" gap between the filter and return air duct. Picture a return air duct run to a furnace, but being partially open on 2 of the 4 sides.

Thanks Jim

Here's a link to their panel installation instructions in case anyone wants to brush up on them. I had to look them up today, so I figured someone else may want to read them. http://www.louisianapacific.com/Literat ... ctions.pdf

Shoot, with the callous's (sp?) I have on my elbows I don't need elbow guards. Since you own one, would you ever go without? Do you use it on all of the low lying crawlspaces on flat ground, or just some of them? Does it speed things up , slow things down, or just make it easier on your body?

Am I the only one that rips the crap out of my cloth coveralls? I have them patched up often (mostly on the back from subfloor nails), but go through several pairs a year. I guess I'll have to try out the Sear's one's

Definitely for a speed bag, the question is why is it on the ceiling? Way too high unless the puncher's head is nearly rubbing the ceiling.

I just wanted to let y'all know that Oregon is officially out of the stone age. Our 2008 Oregon Residential Specialty Code (IRC) now requires a WRB behind almost all siding materials (even vinyl and plywood panel -- wow).

I would not buy a camera without a good re-chargeable battery. My battery will last me for a week, and I have a back- up battery that I rotate. Can't say I have ever not had juice/ power (Kodak camera). I carry a power inverter in my truck and charge all of my gear on the fly, that way I can't forget anything. I just have never had good luck with AA batteries, but to each his own.

Never seen one in, under, or above around here. We don't have many crickets either......hmmmm

"ask the client's if they lost a pet recently"

Kevin, I have heard it is so you have continuity when the meter is pulled.

Jim& Chris, Thanks The weird thing is that the roofer I refer out told me that they do cut in the reglet and counter flash that way. He called me today and said they were going to do it the other way, and that the new company he works for has been doing it this way with no problems. That is 2 roofer's in a row that mentioned insurance issues with cutting into the chimney's. Is this something new for the industry, or are they just chicken's? The roofer did mention hiring out a sweep to cut into the chimney's as an alternative.

Well, according to the NRCA's 5th edition roofing manual, counter flashing is allowed to be surface mounted. Their installation detail shows a surface mounted counter flashing with a hemmed caulking lip like you would see installed against a parapet wall with mod. bit. roofing. That pretty much answers my question as to whether it is allowed. Is this a good practice, and how long can you expect the caulking lip/ seal to last?

The original roofer's on this job told me that they were finished, but never counter flashed the chimney's. They told me a chimney company would have to do the work, and that their insurance would not cover them for installing the counter flashing. I called another roofing company who told me they would counter flash the chimney. This morning they called and let me know that they were not going to cut into the chimney. They are planning on fastening the counter flashing to the chimney, and then sealing the top edges of the flashing. My concern: The sealant will fail over time. Their concern: Cutting into the chimney will weaken the chimney. Question: Is their installation an allowable practice backed up by the NRCA/ ARMA or other industry standards?

I agree. Dissimilar siding materials are required to be flashed or overlapped. Also, trim protrusions are required to be flashed (is that a protrusion?) Also, contact Hardie's tech support.......there is no way they will tell you that is OK.

The historic home I am working on in Portland ended up with an energized gutter system. A gardener bumped into a downspout, and it started arcing. It tok 2 electricians 2 days to track down the cause. The roofer's flashing conacted some exterior wall knob and tube wiring, which energized the flashing and gutter systems. Luckily, nobody completed the circuit while working on the roof/ gutters, etc.

The guy's I have working on this home were just featured in our local newspaper.................. http://www.oregonlive.com/hg/index.ssf/ ... the_g.html

I sure hope so. All I could do was recommend that they ensure permits were pulled/ signed off to ensure the system was "properly'' installed. Can't really inspect the system since it is sealed. As far as I can remember, this is my first one of these found on an inspection. You guy's would have loved the 1960's style single wide enveloped with an addition down the street[:-bigeyes

Thanks guy's Jim-- this was in Yamhill on Olive St. , which is downtown if you can call it that. Do you see whole house ejection pumps very often?

Anyone have any good sites to point me towards, that will show a proper installation of a whole house sewage ejection system. This is a first for me. The home is located within the city limits, but the sewage must be pumped uphill to the sewer main. The sewer line runs out to the side yard and into the basin (sealed), where it then get's pumped into the sewer main. Of course, I couldn't find any markings on the system, so I can't Google the name of the pump system.

Jeff, Thanks for the post , Let me know when class starts.......[:-dunce]

Polly, a picture would help

I would recommend installing a vapor barrier and subfloor insulation. I would probably recommend adding insulation in the attic as well. (just guessing there is minimal insulation up there too).

Oregon's plumbing code is based on the UPC and not the IRC so it depends on what code you use in your area. Check out 608.5 in the link below: http://www.cbs.state.or.us/bcd/programs ... pter_6.pdf I don't know whether Oregon has modified the original wording from the UPC, and don't have access to the UPC to check. I should have worded my first post better, since what I wrote is obviously not true according to the IRC. Phillip, thanks for proving me wrong. I'll be more careful in the future before I condemn something.