NewInspector

Aussie Toilet has dual flush, one button for #1 and one for #2. I think it's called the Caroma. It's huge in Europe. I read it in a highly recommended book called "flushed, a history of plumbing". Roger H

Anything that centered on the faucet must have been a marvel of what we call "Yankee Engineering". Someone had a wife as meticulous as mine and needed a place to clean his boots. RDH

"True! – nervous – very, very dreadfully nervous I had been and am; but why will you say that I am mad? The disease had sharpened my senses – not destroyed – not dulled them. Above all was the sense of hearing acute. I heard all things in the heaven and in the earth. I heard many things in hell. How, then, am I mad? Hearken! and observe how healthily – how calmly I can tell you the whole story." Recognize the quote - anyone? One of my favorites, reminds me of my day today. Took a little stealth & diversion to get this pic - Jack Bower would be proud. The outlet had a bulb. I plugged in a light, ringed the doorbell, nothing to report. The house had previously been lived in by an elderly man who had a hearing problem. I took a couple of pics, this was the only clear one in the batch. I have to go now - 24 is starting (season finale) - priorities. RDH Download Attachment: MysteryOutlet.jpg 41.33 KB

Just got a call from him, he wants me to come back on Monday AM to do some heavy lifting. I will remove the cover & take a pic. Might even get in the attic & see if tracing is possible. Funny, I thought this post was dead-in-the-water after the first couple of posts. Thx for all responses - til Monday PM.

I'd recommend a compression tee valve replace the saddle. Performs the same function & is code compliant.

Jim, I did not push, I was helping my Grandfather today & he asked me not to touch it. He didn't want something somewhere to go awry. I told him I'd post & let him know. BTW it doesn't push, it twists on / off. RDH

What is this? Please help. House constructed in 1969. Download Attachment: HI 082.jpg 80.04 KB Download Attachment: HI 083.jpg 89.07 KB

Hello all, I understand all the issues regarding FP Breaker Panels (loose bus conn.'s, CB's failure to retrip, slim panel width prone to overcrowding, FP falsifying data), but I came across an older panel w/fuses & realized that I hadn't really come across anything in my readings. How should these be addressed? Aside from being outdated (by modern standards) and from FP. Thx in advance. Download Attachment: FP Panel_Fuses_1.jpg 183.74 KB Download Attachment: FP Panel_Fuses_2.jpg 155.97 KB

THX JIM.

Thanks for all the responses. My next question would be for the code gurus. Does the code address this issue? RDH Quote: By misfortune was my life prolonged, so that I may tell sad stories of my own mishaps. - Silas Marner

I found this on the manufacturers website. I don't know if the practice of creating a chase is actually practiced, but it does seem to be preferred/recommended below the roofline. http://www.selkirkcanada.com/products/v ... 202004.pdf Download Attachment: Ext_MChimney_3.jpg 64.55 KB

My question is how to tell if an exterior metal chimney is rated for exterior use. I am new to the field & during my training came across this one. Would the info typically be included w/the other stamped info? This was a waterfront home built in the 1950's. Also, are there any restrictions as to the proximity of this type of chimney & a deck. RDH Download Attachment: Ext_MChimney_1.jpg 321.07 KB Download Attachment: Ext_MChimney_2.jpg 140.28 KB

I never imagined I'd ever see something like this. Just imagine my surprise as I pulled back the curtain to reveal this. This was definitely an accident waiting to happen. RDH Quote: A man who has nothing to fear from the truth, has nothing to fear from lies. Download Attachment: Int_SunkenBath.jpg 180.51 KB Download Attachment: Int_SunkenBath2.jpg 228.38 KB

Thx for the info - cleared it up for me.

I've been on a few inspections now and I've come across this system on a couple of occasions. The valve to drain the boiler is at the bottom of the unit about 2" or so above the floor. It is probably not a concern but looks a little cumbersome so low to the floor. I suppose draining is usually done with a hose hookup so this is a non-issue.

Scary, I actually understand this stuff now. Thanks for the lesson.

Good stuff - thx much hasdok, appreciate the lesson.

Can anyone recommend a good read regarding history of foundation construction. I have found a couple at my local library, but nothing that covers a wide array of construction types. The reason I ask is that when I went on an inspection with a seasoned inspector he was able to guestimate the age of the homes by the foundation makeup. It impressed me that he could at least have a general feel for the age of the building (no matter what other exterior embellishments had been added) without stepping in the door. The listing had said 1950's, but he estimated a probable age closer to the 1920's. Wouldn't you know, he was right on it. This may be something only time can teach, I'm not sure yet.

My apologies to those i've offended by posting my initial reply. I am new to the field & was merely trying to find out if what I had been told/taught was accurate. I should have asked the question as to whether a widespread, melting type, damage to VS could be caused by foil faced insulation board installed behind. I would still like an answer as I am now thoroughly confused. It seems from your posts that foil faced backing has not been a problem. Is this factual? I should have included a disclaimer with my previous postings that I am neither an experienced inspector nor a wordsmith ("more temperate")

Staying on topic - I have read of but never seen vinyl siding deterioration such as this. I seem to remember the cause being a result of foil faced insulation board sheathing installed behind. The problem was with a darker (less reflective) vinyl on exposed sides of the structure. I assume only more temperate climates would experience this aberration.

I am aware of the issues over old FP Panels, but have read reports of faulty or recalled Zinsco panels, Wadsworth & Push-matic breakers. Any info. on any (except FP) is appreciated. I'd also ask NE Inspector's if they'd ever come across Zinsco panels. It seems these are geographically limited to W & SW US. Thank you in advance for taking the time to reply.

So, there was no immediate support problem & you still find the need to report a deficiency. The current code requirement is nice to know for current standards of practice, but if it has stood the test of time & shows no signs of deterioration why report? I'm not a code historian & do not know if this was accepted practice at the time of construction. Reciting code is dangerous because you don't want to give the appearance of being a code guru. My advice would be to keep it simple & avoid overinspecting. My question would be (to all others), what if the service entrance conduit failed tomorrow (with no signs today), would I be at fault that I didn't note it's noncompliance with current safe building practices? There is a lot of grey area in Home Inspection, I assume this is another example. I'm still new to this arena, forgive my ignorance.

Nice as an aside to inform the client, but with no visible signs in the attic after 2.5 yrs of use = no problem. Also, I'm not sure what adding baffles w/out soffit ventillation will do (unless it is an old balloon framed structure which may allow air to be pulled up and through). In NE, I would include a picture w/basic fundamentals of attic ventillation & recommend a continuous soffit vent be installed. Basically this would entail cutting a continuous channel & the soffit (if none present). As an aside I would mention the necessity of each bay being equipped with a soffit vent (ideally). This would be necessary if the soffit was not wood & could not be channelled, then individual vents would need to be added @ each bay. All CYA in my opinion. If this were my own home I'd be taking the wait & see approach, but legally I'm more comfortable with recommending adequate soffit ventillation be added. Only caveat I'd include would be the difference in ridge venting systems. Baffle type (W in cross section) exceeds cheaper mesh type ridge vent systems. Inadequate ridge vent will allow wind driven rains into attic. If your going to recommend a product, this would be a far superior/minimal extra cost addition.

I believe the smoke machine would indicate current conditions & may not be indicative of all/or normal operating conditions. In any event, adding all the extra ventillation would have done the trick no matter what the original cause. Hate to think I have to start smoking the attic as part of typical inspection, I'm not that dedicated.

Questions, Questions & more questions. Both heating systems were identical, correct? If furnace, was there a humidifier installed @ problem house? Insulation in attic equal, or does problem house have more warm/moist house air seeping into attic (possible vapor barrier issues w/one house & ceiling)? Does one have air handler & the other not? The air handler is typically used to create a reasonable interior air exchange rate in new/tight construction. I would expect to find the air to air exchanger in the home w/out the problem, because moisture will be expelled with the air. Also, consider the fact that one system may be working while the other is not - all things being equal. I don't believe that simple orientation would cause widespread conditions, but I may be wrong. Is the problem roof showing any signs of moss growth on the leeward face? Either way the recommendation of a baffle type continuous roof vent is probably the most adequate remediation technique. Is the sheathing salvageable? (i.e. Will the roof have to be replaced anyway)