John Dirks Jr

I am using Word 2002. I have whittled down my report writing template to about where I want it. I use three different fonts/sizes basically. One for headlines, one for subtitles, and one for text body. I currently make multiple mouse clicks to change back and forth between the chosen fonts/sizes. Can anyone tell me of an easier way? Is there a way to save the three different selections on the tool bar so that I only have to make one click or key stroke to switch?

The blower does run when the burner is on. If the white coloring is from spillage, why is it dis colored above the diverter? Thats why I dont think it's from spillage. Also, if spillage caused the green stain on the copper fitting, why didn't spillage cause staining on the rest of the copper pipes? I think I'm getting worried about nothing. If I'm wrong, someone please jump in and say so.

Mike might be on to something here. It is a flue pipe in the background. It's a fan assisted flue for the water heater. I went back and looked at other pictures I had and noticed a white coloring under the draft diverter. Is this solid evidence of draft spillage? If so, I flat out missed it. I am still within the contractual time frame for amending the report. Who thinks I should make an amendment to the report? The 48 hour contractual time frame will expire at about 4:30 PM today. If I amend the report to include suspicion of draft spillage, what profession is the best to recommend it be referred to in the report? Plumber or HVAC tech? Heres the pic in question. Image Insert: 120.54 KB

Either or both.

What would cause this corrosion on the water heater isolating valve? Image Insert: 102.78 KB

I put it in the report. Here is what I said: The vents for the upstairs bathrooms terminate in the attic space just below the ridge vent. Although this arrangement does not appear to have caused a moisture problem yet, it is still an incorrect installation. All mechanical venting devices should terminate to the outside of the structure. If you are concerned that this arrangement might cause a moisture problem in the attic in the future, hire a contractor to correct it.

Ok Mike, Thanks. Can you describe a damp course?

If it's not a problem worth reporting, I will leave it out all together.

I heard there were specific types of brick that are allowed to be in contact with grade. How can one tell which bricks are which?

The picture shows a seal tucked in. It's the outer portion seal that you can touch. Does this compromise the seal between the two panes or is it just a mounting seal for the frame? Image Insert: 82.53 KB

BTW I forgot to check the sheathing size. Any Guesses?

Well it does get cold here but not for really long spells. This attic had very good ventilation. Full length perferated soffits and ridge venting. There are no signs of moisture problems. I guess in this particular case the setup has passed the test of time and shouldn't be picked on.

Jim, There was no language anywhere on the panel that mentioned anything about doubling up on terminals. You can see in the photos that they are doubled with different sizes.

Thanks Brian. Bring on the electrician. Another thing, this place had all these new work plastic boxes and the those little flip type openings were broken completely off. Because of this I saw no effective system of securing the wire connections from being tugged. I suppose I should call this out as well? Image Insert: 93.94 KB Image Insert: 86.44 KB

Vents for both upstairs bathrooms are terminating in the attic. They are terminating just below the ridge vent. There are no signs of problems caused by moisture. Built in 1996. Is this setup a problem that should be noted in the report or do they get away with this? Image Insert: 150.27 KB

I have seen panels that allow two conductors to share a terminal if they are the same size. In this panel there are several terminals that share conductors of different sizes. Is this ever allowed? It is the main panel so I figure the neutrals and grounds on the same bus are not a problem as they shoud be bonded in the main anyway. I dont know why the shared terminals anyway as there were plenty of empty ones. Image Insert: 117.9 KB Image Insert: 141.62 KB Image Insert: 128.66 KB What do you think about the panel being stuffed in te corner? Image Insert: 120.48 KB

I think I need to research passive voice and nominalizations. I will do that and get to work with my ax. It may take me some time as my schedule is full over the next few days. Thank you for pointing me in the right direction. We'll see if I can stay on the path.

Bonnie, you being the linguistic guru that you are, I'd be honored to have you crunch it down. Go for it. My goal is to have a common statement to be used with every report that basically says; 1. If you want the legal language go back to the agreement because you wont find that stuff here in the report. 2. Some things are written here because they have to be according to SOP. 3. Some things are written about here because I think they need to be known. 4. Some things are not written about here because the SOP does not require it and, I don't think they need to be written about. Not really in those exact words but you get my drift don't you? I kind of want to explain up front that I wont be writing about things that don't need attention. BTW, I have had your writing course and your writings suggested to me by some of your loyal followers at this site. I'm determined to squeeze your offerings into my busy schedule sooner or later.[:-graduat

I wrote up this for my report templates. Open to scrutiny or praise or whatever. Preface/Exclusions This inspection was performed in accordance with the "Standards of Practice and Code of Ethics" of the National Association of Home Inspectors (NAHI) and The State of Maryland. Prior to the beginning of the home inspection on the above listed property, you were given some papers. They included an “Inspection Agreement / Contract for Servicesâ€

Good idea but I bet the stuff you mention is even more expensive at that. Cost is the main factor. The goal is to keep it as low as possible. The extra labor is not a problem since he is doing it himself.

I don't think peeling it would be easier than slicing it. However, if the backing is combustable I agree with removing it for safety reasons.

Ok then. You mean lay it down with the vapor backing facing up then slice the backing up to allow it to breath?

A friend of mine wants to add insulation to his attic that already has some up there. He needs the batts without the vapor barrier but he said they are more expensive than the ones with the vapor barrier. Would peeling the vapor barrier off of the less expensive batts be a viable option? Have any of you ever tried this? I had leftover R25 batts when I did my attic and I split them down the middle to add extra coverage in my attic. It wasn't a big deal really. I know it would be time consuming to carefully remove the backings but is there a technical reason why it should not be done? He cliams he can get R30 with backing cheaper than R25 without.

rotating outlet http://www.cyberguys.com/templates/Sear ... π=Y&st=5

I know this is a loaded question but what is the average real world cost of a mitigation system. I know it's easy to do a google search on the matter. I figure once a contractor gets on the job that add ons start piling up. Anyone have any real world bottom line averages?