DonTx

I'm curious as to how many inspectors call out the gas shut off valve as being inaccessible when it is located behind the range? Donald

Most plumbers I know will also charge more to replace a water heater in the attic than one on a floor space. Donald

In new homes when I only have a few places with tile I'll grab a clothes rod out of a closet and use it. On large areas I can cover more with a golf ball. As Norm stated, you gotta be careful with the slices. I'd forgotten about the chain. That's something I might try in the future. Donald

I'm not sure it was epoxy, looked more like liquid nails to me. Besides, Kohler says it doesn't want adhesives or adhesive sealants used on its china. [:-thumbd] You'd think for 1.3 mil you could find someone who can read instructions. Pity the fool that tries to remove those sinks if they ever have problems! [:-scared] We actually had fun inspecting this home. We found 119 marble tile on the 1st level that had no thin set below them. Some were already loose. The agent stopped by and once we showed her the difference, she wanted to help so we gave her a golf ball. Soon all three of us were sounding the tile and the builder shows up. He had a stunned look on his face when he walked in. Nice guy, but he didn't offer to stay around and help us. I told him I had more golf balls if he wanted to stay and help, but he declined. Donald

Seems I read in the NEC somewhere that running wiring across the buss is a no no? Can someone educate me with the exact code? Download Attachment: .jpg"] IMG_0085[1].jpg 73.3 KB

I have to admit. I didn't find this one, the homeowner did. [:-banghead] She wrestled the shield off of the top of this direct vent gas fireplace and asked me if this was suppose to be like this. I told her I didn't think so. I got the model and SN# and pulled the installation instructions. Sure enough, it was wrong. She said the fireplace company had been back out 3 times since they moved in. 2 techs told her it was fine, the third said he didn't really know that he'd never seen one like this. I check them all from now on. Donald P.S. But she didn't see the cracked sheetrock in her living room due to a plumbing leak!! [:-batman] Download Attachment: .jpg"] IMG_0083[1].jpg 29.12 KB

What are your thoughts on this tub installation? Download Attachment: ShelbyHome 005.jpg 63.29 KB Download Attachment: ShelbyHome 004.jpg 49.86 KB How about these undercounter sinks? The pieces of cardboard have great structural value. Download Attachment: ShelbyHome 007.jpg 32.9 KB

I've always been told those little roots can penetrate into the concrete and mortar. The damage is done as the roots grow larger and penetrate the mortar. Plus it gives critters of all kinds a home and access to your home. Now hush up and eat your Kudzu, it's good for ya! Donald

About 90 to 95% of the new homes here have the water heater in the attic. Builders say it's because no one wants them taking up their precious space in the garage. 90 to 95% of new homeowners don't want them in their attics because they know what can happen in case of a major leak. Seems like I've read either a water heater manufacturers installation instructions or a t&p valve makers instructions that say these things must have a seperate line plumbed to the outside. I can't remember, I just call them out if they're stupid enough to run them this way. A few builders will even put the poly pan underneath new gas water heaters in the attics. As for #3, I think builders think they look cool in the attic and that Chicks dig 'em. Donald

Got pics? Donald

This pool today had one continous coping/deck. I'm guessing, (judging by the date on the pool heater) that this pool was constructed around 1993. It appears the pool shell may have been replastered but I don't think the spa was. There are cracks in the mortor between the stone just about where the coping would meet a deck on most pools. Is this a concern or just typical mortar curing. Photo's 1 and 2 Also, in the spa there appears to be some spots worn through the plaster. Not rusting, just looked like bare spots. Photo 3 Photo's 4 and 6 are some staining on the pool shell. Is this typical? And while I'm at it, on photo 6, are the intakes suppose to more than 3 foot apart or within 3 foot? Donald Download Attachment: ChantillyPool 001.jpg 63.02 KB Download Attachment: ChantillyPool 002.jpg 57.84 KB Download Attachment: ChantillyPool 003.jpg 30.32 KB Download Attachment: ChantillyPool 004.jpg 27.42 KB Download Attachment: ChantillyPool 006.jpg 37.35 KB

Those are what you call shakes? We call that kindling here [:-jump] Donald

Thanks everyone, I like Dan's site, I've visited it many times in the past for all types of information. I even put a link to his AL pages in my report when I find AL wired homes. However, I've never found a definate answer on his site or on my own. I always refer AL to electricians, but I know many of them don't have a clue as to what the dangers of AL wiring can be.....but they know what 5 to 10 bucks per outlet/switch is to pigtail the wiring. I don't pull the outlets out of the box to insure that the pigtailing has anti-oxidant paste on it and how else would you know if the wire nut is not flammabe unless you set some of fire? When it's all said and done I tell them to see a sparky and I give them a copy of the CPSC page that basically says that pigtailing is not a safe alternative and leave it at that. Somehow it still doesn't feel like I've done enough to educate them. Donald

Okay, As I've understood it for quite some time, the CPSC does not recognize pigtailing AL and Copper as a safe alternative but the NEC does. Now this is where I get a little fuzzy....if the wires are pigtailed, can any wire nut be used or just an Ideal 65 type nut? Yes, I know there are issues with Ideal 65's. But I'm wondering if any ole wire nut will work or does it have to be a special one? Donald

I have Adobe Acrobat 5.0 and will be upgrading to 6.0 shortly. I have a couple questions that hopefully some of you can answer. 1. When I make changes in reports with AA 5.0, people who have AA 6.0 tell me they can see the changes even though I've secured the document. Is there any way I can hide all the changes from everyone? 2. When I open a PDF document up, the book mark window opens as well. It's annoying and I've tried many times to prevent this from happening by changing some settings. No luck. It didn't do this when I first bought the program. How do I keep that box from popping up? 3. What is the difference between the Standard Version and the Professional version other than the price? Can I upgrade to the Professional verstion if I have the Standard version? Thanks in advance, Donald

Okay. If it's what I'm thinking of, it's like Sto's powerwall or powerflex system. It's made up of elastomeric polymers. It may or may not have silicone in it depending upon the brand and manufacturer. If you pick at it just a little, it will look like rubber or vinyl. You'd think you could peel it off if you tried. Donald

Paul, probably applied a one coat stucco over the CMU's. For the life of me I can't remember what the type of coating is that your talking about although I see it quite often. Let me dig into my files and see if I can find the name. Seems like it's an expoxy type finish for stucco though. Looks like a 20 year shingle on the roof. Amazes me how builders spend money on some things and then scrimp on things like shingles. Donald

Same stuff, different food coloring. Go to www.owenscorning.com and take a look at it for yourself. I don't think this is designed for ductwork anyhow. Forget about when the fire code became law. We all know there should be a garage/home seperation. Donald

Great...I've been doing those two things...now on to the third item. Some ballcocks do not have a fill hose. Should all of them have a fill hose running over to the overflow tube? I've often thought that those flush assemblies filling from the bottom could be a source of cross contamination. I suppose there is a back flow preventer built in? Donald Toilet Mouth For A Day [:-king]

This is one of the qualities I like about Mr. G, always bringing up stuff I forget about. Now that he's cleared up the leaking head gasket problem I've wondered about, I'll ask another one. Should there be a 1 inch difference between the top of the fill tube and the ball cockvalve? I've heard something about needing an air gap to prevent possible back siphoning...is this it? C'mon people, let's talk commodes! Donald

I actually did try that first. I kept getting an icon that led me to a folder without the PhotoDraw exe. in it. Once I re-installed it to a different folder I had no problem finding the exe. icon. Thanks everyone, Donald

Thanks Terry. I could find all the other PhotoDraw files but never the exe. So I uninstalled it and re-installed it in its own folder. Found it right away then. Thanks again, Donald

The report software I use will use any photo editing software I choose. All I have to do is point the reporting software; via a "browse" button. Then when I need to edit a picture all I do is click the picture and the software will open. My problem is I use PhotoDraw and it has been installed on my computer for a while. I think it was installed as a package and I can not find the program itself. Yes, I used the Search feature....about a 1000 returns. I find plenty of the shortcuts but not the actual program. Is there an easy way to find the original program? I don't have this problem with other programs, just window based ones. Donald

I have the APA Guidelines for OSB but cannot find any place where it states that exposed OSB edges should be protected from the elements. I have stone veneer (yes, real stone) hanging off of OSB. The lower edges above grade are exposed behind the stone veneer. Donald

Mike and anyone else in the Pac NW. In your part of the world, are house wraps put on between the inside of OSB or on the outside of OSB (or other sheathing)? Do you know anything about Pactiv Ultra House Wrap? Is it like Tyvek or is it a moisture barrier? Thanks, Donald