DonTx

Deep down I figured it didn't add up to a hill of beams but I still like to see something more substantial like hangers or a ledger strip. If you look at the first pick, third rafter to the right (or first rafter on the right if you want to look at it that way) you'll see the tail of the 2x12 has split off. I commondly find cracks/splits at these tails.

That's kinda what I've recommended in the past Chad. I should have mentioned this was new construction. I don't get this bent out of shape when it's an older home. Just recommend a ledger strip or hangers (depending on the slope) and let them decide whether or not they want to do it.

I see this type of thing quite often. It normally occurs at a pitch change where a sloped Family Room ceiling meets the attic. I think notching the rafter ends this way is wrong. In my world, the beam should be set low enough to accomodate the 2x12 rafters then the 2x6's can be braced to the beam. I usually use IRC R802.7.1 (in part) Notches at the ends of the member shall not exceed one-fourth the depth of the member. The tension side members 4 inches (102 mm) or greater in nominal thickness shall not be notched except at the ends of the members. What say you? Download Attachment: RafterNotches.JPG 162.68 KB Download Attachment: RafterNotches2.JPG 187.38 KB Download Attachment: RafterNotches3.JPG 131.99 KB

I use PhotoDraw integrated with my reporting software. I don't take pictures on a regular basis unless they are paid for, if the client will not be present or if a defect is found in an out of the way place. When I'm in my reporting program, I can select the photo I want from the camera and import it into it's place in the report, clicking the photo opens PhotoDraw with the picture ready for editing, caption it and put my markers on it, hit save and the changes show up in the program. Total time is about 10 to 15 seconds per photo. The most photo's I've ever put into a report is about 20. Donald

Hi Andrew, I use to be a Mac person myself years ago. My first puter was a Mac and I do love those machines. I've been thinking of getting another Mac here lately. I miss the simplicity and power of those machiens. Whisper Solutions use to advertise that their software would run on Virtual PC. Not sure if it still does since they've upgraded their software. You can find them on the web at www.whispersolutions.com. Other PC software programs may run on VPC, I'm just not sure since I haven't tried them. If I'm not mistaken, Brother Mitenbuler has a FileMaker based inspection program. He'll be hanging around the board somewhere when he gets back from Austin.

Gastite (CSST) has a 100 page design manual that covers just about all types of installations. Although I haven't read the entire thing, one of the "Do's" is to "protect it from contact with sharp objects", such as furnace cabinets. I think the IRC may even address this. I call it out every time I see any type of flexible gas line entering a furnace cabinet.

Erby hit the nail on the head. Did a new construction home out in the boonies a few weeks ago and they had a new set up like this. Only the tank was like RubberMade material.

I'm glad you got your issues settled. I returned the software for a full refund (as stated by Lorne elsewhere in this post) mid November. I'm still waiting for my money.

Wow, a phone line plugged into my computer. Who would have thought about that! [:-dunce] [:-paperba Scott, I send out about 95% of our reports in email. However, many of our clients want us to fax the builder, agent or cousin a copy. Since I have a staff in the office, I don't mind. I just hate printing out a report so it can be faxed! Thankss everyone for the suggestions. Now if someone could tell me what a phone line looked like....[?]

Thanks Dom, I never realized I already had a fax program with XP. Okay...I've tried it but I'm on DSL and everytime I try to send a fax it says there is no dial tone or that the line is busy. How do I get around that one?

I hate printing reports so I can fax them. It's also a waste of paper! Does anyone have any suggestions on fax software so I could fax a PDF document?

Rich, I agree with Scott. I have a Wet Wall detector also and it's practically worthless on Stucco due to the metal lath. It's too powerful for Stucco. There is a company here that is cleaning up on Stucco inspections (referrals from Realtors) because he drills through the Stucco and then takes a moisture reading using probes from a Delmhorst or a Protimeter. I still haven't found no industry standard for checking moisture in Stucco this way. I find it easier to come in from the inside and repair the sheetrock rather than poking a hole in the moisture barrier. Stucco inspections are big around here. I'm thinking that a infrared camera would do the trick nicely. I then wouldn't have to drill holes through the Stucco and damage the moisture barrier.

I gotta brag about scoring on a new Tramex Moisture Encounter off of Ebay about two weeks ago for $200. It arrived last Friday just in time for a 4700 sf forclosed stucco home I had on Sat. Tramex claims this meter will detect moisture an inch deep, so I was eager to try it out. The home was on the water and had been vacant for about a year. The stucco looked rough and there were many cracks and damaged areas. Once I was pretty much done with the inspection, I started around the windows with my new Tramex. At the Master Suite windows and the windows of the bedroom above, the Tramex nearly jumped off the meter. I found many other areas around the windows and walls where the meter showed high readings. I started second guessing the Tramex, thinking perhaps there was some metal mesh or wiring it was picking up on so I went and grabbed my Protimeter SurveyMaster. The PM got into the yellow in a few areas so I figured there was some moisture after all. I pulled the cap off and used the pins on the sheetrock (I didn't worry about damaging the sheetrock because the former owners had done a pretty good job of damaging it before being thrown out). The pins registered 24-27% in the high areas. [:-bigeyes I tried another area where the Tramex had showed in the red and where the Protimeter showed in the high green on the scale. This area showed 20 to 22% with the pins. I think I'm gonna like this new Tramex. I won't give up my Protimeter because of the pins and ease of getting into window corners, but I will definately be using the Tramex most of the time. Loose and leaking commode bases will tremble at the sound of me unzipping the Tramex pouch! Did I mention I only paid $200 for this new meter? [:-magnify If you're looking for a new toy, these meters are worth every penny most places ask for them (around $375-$400).

I believe knowing how to decode the numbers is very important. Can't tell you how many times a listing read "recent HVAC upgrade" and the equipment turns out to be 5 or 6 years old. I always tell the Client to ask the Seller and Selling Agent their definition of "Recent". I've seen more than one Seller try to push a 8-10 year old A/C off as "just a couple years old". I've seen two year old compressors that looked like they were 10 and 10 year old ones that looked like they were new. I've stuck my foot in my mouth one too many times by saying "that unit looks like it is only a few years old" and then have to explain to the Client that it's a 10 year old compressor after I read the data tag.

Thanks crusty. I did use the IRC but since this was a multi-family, multi-storied building I figured the builder probably would say the IRC didn't apply in this case so I was trying to use the IBC. No AHJ's in this community.

I've got the BIA CD. I couldn't tell where their wall flashing was located. I always see weep holes at the lowest point which is just above the slab or lintel. No slider to the balcony. Just a window. The other windows were fixed position windows. Donald

Okay, even if that was them, why would they be between the 1st and 2nd brick instead of below the first brick at the mortar bed?

Did a 1 year warranty on a Condo on the third floor of a 6 story building. Weep holes consisted of what looked like surgical tubing put through the mortar between the first and second brick. Even the ones over the lintels were this way. Has anyone seen this before. The IBC says about the same as the IRC when it comes to weep holes, so I can't see why they would do this on the entire building unless I'm missing something here. Also, the only egress window in the Master Suite was a 30" long x 15" high swing out window (it only opened about 10 inches) that led to the balcony. Couldn't find anything where the IBC blessed this. Your thoughts on this?

Bain, Just because "No one adheres to it" is not a good reason not to call it out. My reports would be very short if I failed to call out stuff that builders and trades do not adhere to. Things such as proper brick masonry construction, insulation, window installation, etc. Keep calling it out. You may be surprised to find them following the rules one day and you won't have to worry about a Smarty Pants Lawyer asking you why you didn't call something out.

We've been finding quite a few attics with insulation that does not meet the depth the label states. One of my inspectors was doing some research when he came across this article. Here's the link. http://hem.dis.anl.gov/eehem/00/001112.html

I'll go with that. Thanks Jim and Brian. Yeah, I had already told the lady it was time to put this little soldier to rest. I just like to add the date if I can find it. Besides, this was my personal best, the oldest gas furnace I've ever inspected. Broke the old record of '69. The sad thing is, this furnace looked better than the two 1990 rust buckets I inspected yesterday!

I could barely read the info off the data tag on this furnace. Fedders Gas Furnace 60,000 BTU What I thought I saw was Mod# GU06001T SN# CB108647 I can't find that SN or Mod in either the Prestons Guide or my Carson Dunlop guide. I think it may have been a Mod# GUC60C1T which makes it 1967...pretty darn close to the age of this apt. I was hoping to cross reference with the SN# but haven't had any luck. Any help? Edits are for BTU and Brand

So, Inquiring minds wanna know....what did you tell her? "Sure, yes ma'am, I'll have a Summary for you as soon as I'm done!" "Not a problem, it'll be a breeze because my Checklist doesn't have enough space for a house this size" LOL...j/k Chad...Good Luck BTW...some free advice...it's worth what you paid for it. I use to find myself re-inspecting the same rooms whenever I did these million room homes. I know leave the light on in each bedroom I check and then when I'm done, I work my way back out turning lights off. Beats the heck out of leaving a trail of Ginger bread crumbs. (unless the Realtor comes behind you turning the lights off)

Thanks Mike, I did see the recall when it came out, but the recall said those breakers were manufactured between April and March of '04. The ones on these homes would have been manufactured sometime in the summer of '03.

I inspected a 1 year old townhome yesterday and I could hear a slight buzzing in one of the breakers. Never did figure out which one was buzzing. At the end of the inspection after I had gone over my findings with the lady, she picks up the phone and calls the neighbor next door and tells her to hire us to do her one year warranty inspection. Her neighbor calls the office and we worked her in today. She also had a buzzing in the panel. I did notice that she did have a surge protector installed, but it didn't sound like it was coming from there. These were both Square D panels and breakers. Any thoughts on what might be causing this? It's the first time in a long time I've heard any buzzing from breakers.