DonTx

Amazing, I haven't ever seen a FPE fuse box before. Nice decal. Thanks for the pics. Donald

Is there an ASTM standard or other Industry standard for performing stucco inspections? There is a company here that actually drills into the stucco and into the substrate to take moisture samples. I guess it's like taking an EIFS sample. I would think that the metal would drive the probes of the moisture meter crazy. This company has been at it a while and have made a pretty good business out of it. Your thoughts? Donald

I freakin wanna know how it's spose to be done!![:-dev3] Seriously, I had pretty much nuked the roof in my report by saying a lot of the same things you just did. I was curious how the flashing around that chimney should have been installed. Tar paper. The tile will outlast the paper..right? Yes Nails through the holes at the head Okay, you got me on this one. I'm thinking you're talking about how far the upper tile was overlapping the lower tile? Judging by how far the loose ones had slipped, about 2 to 3 inches. I dunno. There was so much tar/roofing cement/expandable foam/caulk around them I couldn't tell. I did see one flue that was properly flashed with lead. All others had been gooped up. Would lead be a proper flashing for that chimney? Would it have been preformed or poured at the site? Thanks for the help Mr. C. Crusty, thanks for the link. Donald

Okay you tile roof gurus. I need a little help. This roof appears to have a chronic case of leaking. Now the agent says it just started about 10 days ago when we had really hard rains. I'm sure it leaked then, but I also believe it has leaked in the past. I found old tar/roof cement compound in the valleys and around most of the roof penetrations. I also found where someone used plenty of expandable foam in the same areas! I don't think the penetrations are flashed correctly. I've never seen a chimney designed like this. The main part of the home is like an octagon shape with the peak being the chimney. I did find water stains on the framing members. (no surprise there) How should these penetrations be flashed and how should this chimney be flashed? Donald P.S. A little history on this home. It was built in 1974, 4000+ sf, a former Miss Universe owned it at one time (probably sold it because the roof leaked). It was on Ebay but didn't sell. It's located in a small coastal town on the coatal bend area here in Texas. It's about a 1/2 mile from the beach so I know it has seen it's share of storms. Download Attachment: tilechimney.jpg 61.7 KB Download Attachment: turbinevent.jpg 57.48 KB Download Attachment: tilevalley.jpg 79.75 KB Download Attachment: valley2.JPG 74.26 KB

WHK, someone will post a picture soon showing you what happens when you vent a bathroom fan to the soffits. Who ever has that picture, please post it again for WHK's sake. Donald

Wow, those file sizes even made my DSL scream for mercy!!![:-bigmouth]

I don't know how ya'll do it up North. Most builders here will run baffles up the rafter bays, vent the blocking (if any) and continue the baffles right up to the main attic. Soffits on the bottom and what ever type of upper attic exhaust venting that particular builder uses. The baffles, if installed correctly, should give you an inch or more of space. Just food for though because we're in a hot/humid climate so your needs may be different. Donald

Trendy builders here put outlets up under the cabinets. Just make sure the cabinets aren't too high. 18-20 inches depending upon which flavor of code you want. Donald

My WAG is 4 ton unit(CH19-51-2), manufactured in '93 gathered from the sparse info I have in the Carson & Dunlop Technical Guide.

This is actually a one year warranty inspection. He looked at a couple of the neighbors homes and didn't see it on any of those. He also said he found small amounts of it inside the home. I basically told home to tell them in the report that he didn't know what it was and call for further evaluation and testing by an environmental lab. Lambs blood? I should've known...It just keeps slipping my mind to look for it. I hope that ommission is covered by FREA in my policy [?] Donald

My inspector emailed me these photos of a home he inspected today. His explanation was that this stuff was all over the soffits, hardi plank, metal window frames and he even found some inside the home. He said it appeared to be a rusty red color. Any ideas what it may be? Donald Download Attachment: redrustystuff.JPG 85.54 KB Download Attachment: redrustystuff2.JPG 82.76 KB Download Attachment: redrustystuff3.JPG 59.6 KB

Thanks everyone, Chad, this was a phase construction inspection. These wires were only roughed in. They are typically wadded up and shoved back into the box until the snap switches or dimmers are installed later. I always try and pull some out to make sure the grounds are there. It's not uncommon here for the snap or dimmers switchs to not be grounded. Donald

That particular gang switch was for the living room. I suspect two are going to the ceiling fan/light fixture. I have no idea where the other one is going. Possibly to another light fixture? Donald

To me, it looks like the electrician does not plan on grounding the snap switches and dimmers. I don't understand why there are neutral wires wire nutted to the ground wires though. Can someone explain? Donald Download Attachment: IMG_0059.JPG 47.45 KB Download Attachment: IMG_0060.JPG 40.42 KB

Many insurance companies in this area will either not insure a roof with comp over wood shingles, increase your premium or disclaim roof coverage. The same goes with 2 or more layers of shingles. They know the next time it needs shingles, it'll have to be stripped down to the decking and they do not want to be left holding the bag. Donald

If we could get that option operated by remote control via a key fob to deal with Realtors, we'd have something! [:-idea] Donald

Are thermostat wires running to the A/C required to be in conduit if they are ran under the ground? Donald

Thanks Kurt, didn't think about it from that angle! [:-propeller]

Thanks guys, I've done wrote the motor mounting up and the lack of a weather cover. Now I'm still a little fuzzy on the wiring. Wouldn't this unit be grounded by the wire running back to the SP? or should it all be bonded like swimming pool equipment? Donald

I'm not sure I follow you Kurt. You compiled the report onsite and emailed it from the site. Okay, why couldn't you have just printed it out? Am I missing something? I love new technology, however new technology doesn't alway like me. [:-banghead] Donald

Two things come to mind here. 1. Shouldn't that motor be supported by something other than the PVC pipe? (this seems like a gimme, but there is a possibility of me being wrong, I don't usually get a lot of softballs!) 2. Does the motor and tank need to be bonded or does the copper line from the pump to the pressure tank take care of that (the plumbing to the home was PVC)? Donald Download Attachment: IMG_0001.JPG 80.76 KB Download Attachment: IMG_0002.JPG 59.51 KB

Ahh Chad, you are soooo wise!! I still cringe when I go back and look at the reports from my first inspections. Your 60th should look a lot better than your 20th. Hopefully your 600th will look a lot better than your 100th. Some folks never get this though. Donald

You may try to find it yourself, but unless you have vast experience in this area I wouldn't recommend it. Shake roofs (and others) can be leaking at one point but actually show up at another. I think you'd be very lucky to find it on the first go. Have a professional roofer with experience on shake roofs come out and find it. If he starts telling you the roof is shot, or this or that is shot, call some one else and get second opinions before believing (and paying) anyone. Donald

Since I upgraded from a candidate to a full member I've started getting about 3 to 5 inspections a month from the site. Some members haven't paid up and do not show up on the site. Others haven't went on the site and entered their name in the Metro area. Right now, it's 4 of us on the Metro site for Houston. Once they visit all 4 sites, I usually get the call. People relocating here from other large areas such as the East, North East or Upper Midwest know the ASHI name. They never balk at my prices. I didn't join for the business. It's like Chris said. It's about credibility. Someone on another board put it like this. ASHI is like the Special Forces of the HI industry. Not everyone can, or wants, to make it past the hurdles. If you do, your looked up to by those who know the difference and sometimes shunned by those that are envious. When other organizations have the clout ASHI does, then I'll consider joining. Donald

This is for you die hard Code gurus. This is a long post, so be warned. (but shorter than most of Mikes [] ) This particular home was one I inspected in Dec. We have expansive type clay soil in this area and I routinely write up new homes without gutters. I use the IRC 801.3 as the code for this. Anyway, my client is very anal but nice guy. He loves a good argument. The builder screwed up and stated that they follow the IRC so now that he's paid $1200 for gutters at the back of his home, he's trying to get the builder to reimburse some of his installation fee. It took the builder 3 months to reply to his letter. The builder first stated that they used the 6" in 10' rule, then stated they use a 12" overhang and feel that meets the code. I supplied him with R801.3 and R102.1. He even called the ICC Technical Assistance Director who agreed with us. The builder finally responded in writing and this is their letter. "Per Dale Phillips, code certified inspector, he states that the origination of the specific code you are referring to, IRC2000code, R801.3, 'goes back to the 1995 CABO code. HUD and VA examined this portion of the code and rendered an interpretation (manual 4145.1 revision 2) that a home would be in compliance if one of the following conditions were met. 1) The home had a minimum 24" eave 2) The home had a full system of gutters, downspouts, and splashblocks 3) The home was equipped with foundation perimeter grading that included a system of swales to direct roof water away from the foundation and off the lot. Included with item #3 are minimum lot slope requirements and minimum slab height requirements. After the federal government rendered its opinion, the municipalities followed suit. The City of Houston as well as most other municipalities in this area accept the HUD/VA interpretations.' With this said, ******* Homes has chosen option #3 as the means of handling rood water run off. We do not interpret the code as saying that gutters are required around the entire house and garage. Therefore, ******* Homes will not be installing gutters on the rear of your home. Establishing the proper drainage of water away from the foundation of your home is our method of handling the run off of roof water, and therefore, meeting code requirements in the construction of your home." I think it is strange that the Technical Assistance Director of the ICC has a different interpretation of the code than HUD and the VA supposedly do. Are you aware of the 1995 CABO code, and can a builder use such a convoluted excuse for not complying with the IRC? A quick review of HUD Manual 4145.1 Rev 2 - Appendix 8 "SITE GRADING AND DRAINAGE GUIDELINES" doesn't seem to echo the three conditions Trendmaker listed. Also, it states that if some fairly strict drainage requirements can't be met (6" in first 10', then 6" every 25' after that) then "e. Roof drainage should discharge at least 5 feet away from building walls when expansive, collapsible or erodible soils are present." Here's the link I got this info from: http://www.hudclips.org/sub_nonhud/cgi/ ... s1=(4145.1)op 1=AND&l=100&SECT1=TXT_HITS&SECT5=HEHB&u=./legis.cgi&p=1&r=17&f=G I paid over $1200 for gutters and would really love to get some reimbursement. Trendmaker has not been responsive as you can tell. (It was January 21st when I asked for their opinion in writing) Bold type is my clients comments. My thoughts are that the home was not built in '95 and the CABO code does not apply in this case since the home was built in 2003 so when the code originated is irrelevant. This is also not a HUD/VA home nor is it in the Houston city limits. (besides, Houston requires new homes to have full gutters) Your thoughts? Donald