AmeriSpecguy

I did taste it but not on purpose. In fact I still taste it a few hours later. But thank you for confirming!

Wanting to verify with the learned folks here. I have not seen this type of insulation before. Is this Perlite? Thank you in advance! Click to Enlarge 60.65 KB

I don't know where you get that idea. It's not ridiculous, but it hovers right at being ridiculous. B&H is an Amazon vendor, among many others. Amazon isn't Alibaba or Taobao. I am sure there is some vendor someplace on Amazon that is dipshit, but I and our other business buy mountains of stuff out of Amazon. Mountains. It's flawless. It's an absolutely awesome operation. Not taking anything away from B&H; they're excellent. But, Amazon's prices and service are just as good, sometimes better, especially if you're Prime. I've purchased what turned out to be gray market camera equipment and lenses from Amazon. I've purchased other items which were advertised as having a certain set of specs and when received had a completely different set. All from supposedly reputable sellers. Read reviews on thousands of products and you'll find the same story. I'm glad you've had good luck not all of us have.

I've used a OnePlus phone for years. No bloatware and the same basic OS as Android with some tweaks. Otterboxes are the best defense against drops that I've used. Had one of my Samsung years ago. Dropped it daily from atop ladders and never had a single issue

With Amazon you run the risk of running into gray market products which may not have a warranty and may be of sub-standard quality. You would need to check the sellers' feedback very carefully.

I'd second B&H but I see I'm too late

I stopped opening emails from that sender a long time ago and now just delete them as soon as I see the email

I find these quite often. I put it in my report but don't make a fuss about it. I do usually see some rust in the ducting serving that register though

And re-reading my original post I realize I posted in haste and didn't convey my worries properly. The post should have read that the guest bath was only accessible through the guest closet from the bedroom. I have not seen that configuration before. So I can't blame anyone for not answering the question correctly since I didn't even ask it right. That's what I get for being in a hurry [:-paperba

I did not mean to offend and realize my wording in the previous response could have been better. Please don't let me from discourage you from asking questions. I have to admit I was annoyed but the good thing is I have thicker skin than that. While I rarely post here I learn from you gentlemen on a daily basis. Maybe one day someone will have a similar question and be able to learn from this thread. I am a firm believer of learning new things every day. If I think I know everything then I'm either an insufferable know it all or dead and neither is a good thing[:-paperba

The just dumb comment was because of the possibility, at least in my mind, of moisture collection in the closet area. The only means of ventilation in the bath was mechanical fan. This was more for my information and to alleviate my concern not my clients report. I have not seen this setup before. If I am to learn I must ask questions. Thank you for your replies.

I'm currently at an inspection where a guest bedroom leads into the guest bath. This is the first time I've seen a configuration like this and it just seems wrong. Is there any code cite to say this is wrong or is it just dumb? Attached is the pic shot from the bedroom through the closet into the bath. Thanks Click to Enlarge 42.68 KB

I'm playing with Seek Thermal's device which is Flir's competitor. Their resolution is 206x156. From what I've seen Flir's device has slightly better optics which make their images easier to read but the device itself is bulkier.

I see this on probably 25% of my inspections and done by supposedly licensed contractors.

The next time you see a normal-size range installed with a 30-amp breaker, check the kw rating on the range nameplate. I suspect that the breaker (and maybe the wires) will be undersized. Most ranges need 40-amp circuits. Many of them, with warming zones, warming drawers, and convection fans draw well above 40 amps and should be on 50-amp circuits. As for your theory, if the microwave were tapped off the range feed, why didn't it die when the breaker tripped? Electric ranges are the minority here but I will def. check the nameplate for the kw rating. As for my theory it's a quandary and therein lies my confusion.