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Thanks again Marc. Do appreciate the offer. Bought an extra one to have on hand as well.

FYI in case anyone else experiences this, only happened one more time. Then began issue with condenser continuing to run after setpoint reached, with indoor shutting off properly. Tapped contactor and it shut off each time. Replaced contacter and no more issues, so we'll see. Thanks again for the input.

Thanks Marc. Coils have already been cleaned. The contactor mechanism itself is enclosed, I was referring to the wire attachment terminals since they are not and do have some corrosion. I have another thermostat from when I replaced it several years ago I keep as a backup. So far it's been normal the past several days so waiting out this heat wave a couple more days then doing some more checking. Thanks again.

I did not remove power. So far hasn't messed up again. On another board someone said it was likely high/low pressure switches. Found another guy that had near the exact same thing and he said his was the contactor having corrosion and carbon buildup from arcing while engaging and caused intermittent contact issues and replacing that fixed his. Either of these sound possible causes to you? At least the contactor is easy and cheap. May even start with cleaning connections and applying dielectric grease if that is a possibility. Thanks again. Kevin

Just to clarify, when this occurs, outdoor unit shuts down when temp is reached as it should, however indoor fan does not (in Auto), "Cool On" stays on on thermostat and outdoor unit won't start again when temp inside rises unless turning system off at thermostat and turning back on, then will operate normally (i.e. outdoor and indoor shut off and "Cool On" shuts off when temp reached) until the next mess up. Thanks, Kevin

Thanks Marc, but that's not the case here. "Cool On" normally does not stay on on mine when the condenser isn't running and it's in Auto. When it does this, it can get to any temp in the house while set on 70 and it won't kick on to cool it down (highest while I was gone was 78). Even got the thermostat to think it was 85 inside today while set on 70 and it wouldn't kick the compressor back on. Have to shut it off, then turn back on to get it running again. Thanks again.

Hi all, Our AC has started the following intermittent issue: When temp is reached, the condenser shuts off as it should, but the indoor fan continues to run and says "Cool On" like it is still running and having a call for AC. The unit then has to be manually shut off and back on at the thermostat. Then the normal lockout seems to be working properly flashing "Cool On" will until time threshold is met, then it will operate normally. Again, only intermittent, but trying to chase down what contact or sensor could cause this. I've seen posts where others replaced their thermostat with no change, so didn't want to start with that if that's not it. Thanks, hope all are well! Kevin

Thanks alot for all the replies. Helped a lot to narrow it down. Kevin

Looking into replacing our 20+ year old HVAC, even though it's going strong. Figure it's time to increase efficiency on my terms before of a failure. Looking for opinions on different brands. Split system, 3.5 Ton with gas furnace. Is there much difference in brands anymore these days? Thanks for any input. Kevin

Put in a tankless and sell the old 40. Still wouldn't trade mine after 6 years it's been in

I can attest to the much faster burn times nowadays. Much of the issue is the shear amount of "stuff" people have and it's all synthetics, which lead to the much higher heat. The other issue we have is the engineered structural components (I-joists, light weight trusses, etc.) that also burn through much faster and bring houses down much quicker. Add in improper modifications to them and it's impressive to see how fast they drop. We keep trying to change tactics to keep up and improve outcomes, but it's always a challenge. If anyone's bored and wants to look into some of the research, look up UL/NIST Modern Fire Behavior studies that were done. Really is impressive the amount of heat. http://www.firerescue1.com/Firefighter- ... -dynamics/

My 40 year old house had one I just tore out during remodel, it was unventilated and had no signs of moisture issues inside. Can't personally think of why it would react any different then any of the other walls. Not sure if that helps, but that's my experience with mine. I'd see them quite frequently when I was inspecting and never gave it a thought, not that that means anything.

The Rheem customer service is phenomenal, at least for the tankless anyway. I would assume it's good for tank also.

Thanks guys for all the input

Thanks, if I can't sweat or get wrenches in for compression, might spring for these. Haven't been able to find much about failures with them, didn't know if anyone else has. Have heard even less about compression failing.

Thanks, Sharkbite says it can be removed and reused. The manual compression ones can too? Old ones I replaced had the crimp inside it that grips the pipe so had to cut them off before I sweated new ones on. Could have been because they were so old maybe? Thanks again. Aww, got ya. Misread, thought you were saying they could be removed and reused. Might just go that route if I can't sweat them, since the originals lasted 30 years. The nut and ferrule stay, the valve comes off.

Thanks, Sharkbite says it can be removed and reused. The manual compression ones can too? Old ones I replaced had the crimp inside it that grips the pipe so had to cut them off before I sweated new ones on. Could have been because they were so old maybe? Thanks again.

Hi all, installing new kitchen cabinets. I prefer to solder the copper lines, but due to space constrictions not sure I'll be able to. Considering Sharkbite fittings and manual compression fittings and looking for input. Are the manual compression ones similar in durability to Sharkbites? Any known issues with either? I could solder extensions on them while the old base cabinet is out if I have to to be able to solder my valves back on, but don't really want any unneeded new fittings in the lines if I could avoid it. Most Sharkbite reviews I've read were good, just looking for any other input from you folks. Thanks, Kevin

Of the hundreds of legitimate CO calls I've run over the past 20 years, we've never found CO showing significant level differences in different levels of a home, it acts as Jim said and pretty evenly mixes with the air with just the natural air movement in the home from the HVAC. We always recommend a CO detector outside of sleeping areas regardless of what level it's on. That's so it should alarm and wake them if a problem arises before it makes them sick or dead. Especially important in multi-occupancies where a problem in another unit or a suicide in a garage will eventually migrate to the other units. We still use the Nighthawk with digital readout I mentioned above in our fire stations and many of us in our own homes. Some of the newer ones that have combo natural gas detection have shown some faults more than than the others, but they've been very reliable. The monitors we carry show pretty consistent readings with the ones with digital readout. Of all the calls I've ran where there was a detector, 90+% alarmed prior to anyone becoming ill. For one's reporting any symptoms, our ambulances do a breath check with a COHb detector to check them. If someone's going to be transported, we do send them to a place with a hyperbaric and let them know the highest reading we've obtained.

Thanks, I have the tool, was just concerned with the condition the subfloor would be in if I did have to, but suppose I could just use filler if it came to that.

I installed one about 8 years ago; I swore I'd never go that route again. It turned out really well, but I made a mess. Yeah that was kind of my concern. Have read several posts at other sites where people said go that route as a last resort. Has anyone been on a 1/2" floating? Is it anywhere near as bad as laminate or thinner floatings with the squishy feel or hollow sound?

Thanks for all the input. I've never dealt with glue down, so that was my main concern with this specific one. Kinda figured I'd still notice it was floating even with the thicker 1/2". Several others allow staple down for 3/8" and 1/2" just not this particular one. If I don't find another I like that allows staple down, will probably do this one and glue it. Anyone ever install glue down engineered? Thanks again

Thanks, it is 3/4" plywood subfloor, upper level of home.

Hi all, I am installing new wood floors in our kitchen and dining room coinciding with new cabinets and I am looking for input on pros and cons with the different types that people have experienced. The only absolutes so far are I am going with pre-finished, 5" wide plank, and no "painted" surface laminate. Needing to figure this out before I start cabinets so I can place the proper sleeper height under the cabinets. Was planning to use MDF under the cabinets for height of floor installed, recessed back from toe kick to allow me to tuck the floor under. I was originally going with 3/4" solid, standard nailing down. However now I've started looking at some of the engineered hardwoods (with the hardwood wear layers) since it has more consistent quality in the pieces, expands and contracts less requiring less expansion gap at edges, and is $1.50+ sq. ft. cheaper for the finishes we are going with, and can still be refinished, albeit only 1 or 2 times. If I go with engineered, I was hoping to do staple down with either 3/8" or 1/2" thick. However, we've found one we like that is bamboo with very high surface hardness rating and is 1/2" thick and interlocking. Only problem with this specific one is that it isn't rated for staple down, and can only be glued or floating per manufacturer. When I was inspecting, I couldn't stand floatings as I could always feel the "give" in them and the hollow sound, and I prefer the solid feel. However with the glue down, would assume it will be harder to replace a piece if needed, with subfloor having to be damaged to get it out, not to mention the glue cost and mess. So, anyone have experience with a 1/2" floating? Does it still have the same issues I noted above, or is some of that eliminated with the thicker 1/2"? Any other input on gluing down? Thanks in advance for anyone willing to provide input. Kevin

Laundry room floor overflow drain by chance? Doesn't explain water dripping out from faucets running though.