n/a29

I won't do pools and I disclose them in my contract, because I don't have a clue on how to inspect them properly and I feel that trying would be a disservice to my clients. I would love to learn about them so I can provide pool inspections with my services. However, I suspect it would take quite a while for me to get to that point of knowledge. I will keep reading your posts, Norm.

In just the little bit of inspection experience I have had, I have seen leaks like this seal themselves just as Chad mentions. You crud over a leak enough and it will hold like chewing gum. If it isn't a high pressure leak, which obviously it is not, then the corrosion often times will hide the signs of the original leaking. Good call Chad!

Yeah, it looks like it is leaking or there is a leak elsewhere that is dripping on this part that is corroding because of it. I know that sounds too simple, but it is the only logical reason I can think of without seeing more.

I concur with Chad. Looks fine to me.

Very cool!

Download Attachment: SV4000902.JPG 511.62 KB Download Attachment: SV4000912.JPG 637.46 KB Had my first encounter with the FPE panel that I had never heard about until this topic on TIJ. In additon to the inherent problems of the box type itself, I found a double tap on fuse #8, neutrals and grounds on same bus bar, debris in the bottom of the box, bare wires close to the casing, etc. etc. etc. Coming from the subpanel, there was a 240 volt wire going to the AC unit that had been spliced by twisting the wire together and wrapped with electrical tape. It should be no surprise that the wire had already melted and had fire hazard signs written all over it. Some people are extremely lucky!!!

Making an attic "livable space" is a very bad idea, regardless of how you vent the exhaust vents. That attic needs to be highly vented for many reasons.

Well, that's very safe, in addition to being exceptionally self-serving. Having suffered through 120 hours of fire science class in the mid 80's, we proved it wrong on a daily basis. Unfortuneately, I don't have the paperwork available; I threw it all in a dumpster about 15 years ago. That's OK; those inclined to frenzy are usually dis-inclined to believe research that doesn't reinforce preconceived notions. Overheating wires, creating fires, or otherwise causing unsafe conditions was the sole intent of our lab sessions; no one was ever able to start an electrical fire, and voltage drop >40% was necessary to even begin to make something warm. Wild hi voltage sparks were sent through tissue paper & dust, & getting something to ignite required extra exceptional efforts. #14 AWG wires were subjected to sustained loads of 30 amps for periods of hours on end without ever getting noticeably warm. In one of the experiments, we wrapped #14 in tissue, wrapped that in newspaper, wrapped that in insulation, then placed the whole thing in a sealed box w/ an interior temperature of 140degF, then subjected it to another 24 hours of continuous 30 amp load. After 24 hours, the wire was not noticeably warm beyond the 140degF ambient. Being unable to start really good fires was bummin' everyone out. Point being, the NEC is an exceptionally conservative document, & if one is within bounds on stated rules, one is very safe. Applying freakout status to minute excesses noted only in FPN's is conjecture bordering on silliness. Getting out a bullhorn only serves one's need to be loud, not educational. I agree with you Kurt and Chad. The voltage drop is not nearly as much of an issue as current drop/load, which is protected by the breakers/fuses. Total circuit voltage will fluctuate by the percentages noted previously. In a parallel circuit, which is how residential circuits are wired, for all intents and purposes, voltage is constant across each parallel leg. Only the current drop, and ultimately...the voltage drop, will very (in theory) based on the resistance of the device it is passing through, i.e., a wall outlet, a wall oulet powering a toaster, or a common fixed wired light, or a light attached to a ceiling fan. All these devices will present different resistances to the circuit, but only the current is supposed to fluctuate with the different resistances. In theory, the total circuit leg voltage will be constant. The voltage "drop" across different devices will vary upon those current and resistance changes in the attached device. V (Voltage) = I (Current) X R (Resistance) However, there are other factors that will allow voltage to fluctuate as Mike, Chad, and Kurt have indicated, such as the service supply from the energy company. 10-15% voltage drop across a device or in one parallel leg is nothing to be alarmed about at all. Current drop is much more of a concern and if there was a problem with excessive current drop/load, then your breakers and fuses would be tripping and blowing indicating a problem. Download Attachment: circuit.bmp 983.55 KB

Download Attachment: Soffit_Vented_Fan.bmp 922.14 KB Builders in my area used to do this and also vent the exhaust fans into the open attic space. Since I became the municipal code inspector, this is no longer being done. WHK...just save yourself the grief and vent to the true outside as the code states.

Dan, I agree that those HI's out there like yourself should not be "compared" to green HI's like myself. I think the idea of testing and licensing is due to so many new HI's coming into the industry. How else can an HI's knowledge, experience, and credibility be evaluated in order to apply some regulation to the industry. I can see your point how it might not be fair to make those of you who created the HI industry "face off", so to speak, with a newbie inspector like myself, but it is the only way to keep all inspectors on a level playing field, adhering everyone to the same standards. I am sure you have passed the testing and other licensing criteria with flying colors, so really, ask yourself, is it that big of a deal to take the tests, etc. for the industry regulation criteria? The only thing that would really bite in your situation would be having to pay for taking the test, etc. Maybe instead of grandfathering the seasoned HI's and waving the necessity of licensing, etc., maybe the seasoned veteran HI's should not be charged the testing fees, etc. I think most veteran HI's would be ok with having to take the test and get licensed if it didn't cost them anything to provide proof of their knowledge and experience. What do you think?

Very interesting! I figured it would have to be something along the lines of cost or efficiency. Well, then there is the last part too. [:-timebm] Thanks Chad.

Mike, I am curious to know what brand, model, etc. this unit is. You say this is only the 5th or 6th AC unit you have seen. Does it never get warm enough for an AC in Washington???

I'm curious why these are still not being made. I like the idea of being able to make your own gas. Is it expensive to run one of these and make the gas compared to other energy methods maybe? Was this just used as a back up method of utility when it was being used?

That is a very worthwhile thought. It is entirely correct. Thanks Kurt. Humble pie doesn't taste too bad. [:-paperbag]

For what my thoughts on this forum are worth at this point...I was told from ITA training that saddle clamps were a no no on gas lines and waste lines. Ok on water lines as long as they were not on the supply water line. Regardless, I would write up that the gas line's life span was exhausted and should be replaced. Dan

Very good point Tom.

I see your point. I agree that the builder should have built in accordance with current code and you are right trying to go back to a former code is bs. However, I don't know of too many builders that wouldn't still pass on the cost of the gutters to the client, whether it was before or after the sale.

The builder should put gutters all the way around the home, but the builder also has the right to charge for those gutters, so I don't think the client should get any money back for the cost he or she incurred to put the gutters on. Had the builder originally put gutters all the way around, he would have passed on that cost to the client in the price of the home, so it is a moot issue if you ask me. A home buyer will never get more than what they pay for.

Us JARHEADS didn't get mail call. We were told that if the Marine Corps. wanted us to have family, especially a wife or girlfriend, they would have issued us one as standard issue!!! [] I wish my ex-wife had been standard issue. Then I could have just given her back when my tour of duty was over instead of having to spend thousands of dollars to get rid of her!!! [:-banghead] **3rd Marine Airwing, Heavy Marine Helicopter Batallion, Tustin, California. 1985-1989.**

Chad, Thanks man. I am glad I found out about the FPE situation in spite of looking like an idiot to get the information! [b)] I know no matter how much education and training I have under my belt, I will always have things to learn and will come across situations that I am unsure how to handle. That is why I frequent places like this and talk to other inspectors. "I am not too proud to say I don't know". I just don't want to get beat up for asking. [:-banghead]

No complex here. I didn't mean to sound arrogant or anything, just that I have an electrical background and not new to electrical. Didn't mean to insinuate that home inspectors don't typically know electrical or anything of the like. It just sounded to me that I was being called an idiot in a nice way by asking about those particular boxes. But, thanks for caring enough to reply.

I will assume this was not a slam on me and only leave this additional comment: I actually have Bachelor degree in Electrical Engineering and I have background, although many years ago, in residential wiring, so I don't lack any education and I have more experience in electrical than most home inspectors do. I also went to what I consider the "BEST" home inspection training available...ITA. I am just not familiar with these particular subpanel types and the problems surrounding them, as I am not a licensed electrician and I have never come across any in my inspections. Most homes here in the midwest use cutler-hammer or other reputable brand boxes. Very few homes even have subpanels around here unless it is a farm with power to a barn or utility bldg. Thanks for pointing me to where the information on these subpanels reside on the forum.

Great idea! Actually, I would like to flame n' blame management at Sprint more than anything. All the way up until the Friday prior to being walked out the door, I was told by my managers that I was a "valued employee" in a highly critical area and that they could not replace me easily. HA!! I guess it is partly my fault for being so naive and gullible. Amen, brother! It is all about padding the pockets of the company big shots you never see and only hear about on the news about how corrupt they are. Does the name Bill Esery ring any bells??? [:-dunce]

Ok, I am going to put myself at high risk of razzing and ridicule here [:-banghead], but what is an "FPE" subpanel and why are they not recommended?

Thanks to all for the replies. You confirmed my initial thoughts. Dan