leeboy

This mornings inspection was of a house built in the 1930s. It has suffered structural failure (deflection in 6x6 beams) between supporting posts. A carpenter sistered up suspect joists and poured some new footings adding posts. There are around 30 posts under this house. Issues and points 1. recent vapor barrier (6mil poly) has white mold under surface in many areas(dirt crawl space 3 Ft clearance) 2. some existing posts have decay at pad area(not 6'' above grade) 3. water infiltration at skirting around crawl space.(exterior grade above crawl space grade) 4. Some new structure(1 year old) has symptoms of decay. Only close to grade.2 issues powder post and rot from moisture. 5. Has the powder post beetle gone? 6. Has anyone treated the beetle before 7. This is a vented crawl space should it become heated? removing mositure? 8. Bug treatment? 9.a new poured ground seal would be below exterior grade. It would be difficult to create a water tight barrier 6'' above grade between supporting posts from the interior Thanks for the input guys. Click to Enlarge 42.17 KB Click to Enlarge 47.35 KB Click to Enlarge 28.25 KB

Vented eliminates moisture. Unvented has to be hermetically sealed. Vented seems to be common as unvented is likely to have air leaks and moisture despite you best efforts.

Once again this site fuels a mad homeowner looking to sue. "of course you realize this means war"

I have designed and built many showers, for what its worth on the 45 looks great above and below, more work and more materials, if not 45, brick lay looks best. both top and bottom, keep it simple

2% slope is required by code, cross venting is achieved by perpendicular strapping, you need cross air flow. if the deck is being built to a 90 degree wall there is a way to have a deck vent out of a box mounted on top of the deck that looks similar to a base board heater. Add a 6'' overhang to allow venting and keep that wall dry From Victoria

Looking for input on this one. 1.) adding Ridged foam to exterior over existing siding to add an RSI/R Value. 2.) If sealed tight will preform as a vapour barrier. (wrong side of wall) 3.) If sealed tight will act as an air barrier (good) 4.) house is 1970 and has 4mil poly not seled with accoustical sealent. 5.) leave a 3/4" gap, with strapingand add a with bug screen to allow moisture to escape (Rain Screen) allowing siding to dry. any R/RSI value left. The Idea is to add siding and an R/RSI value. Not a Vapour Barrier

We have done this on a few projects where we underpinned the foundations, by pouring the concrete with a additive allowing it to be runny with out losing strength, adding extra "head pressure" to the concrete to get it under the old footings to ensure contact. was it possible that the house was post and pad, then had a foundation poured after? What year was the house?

Foam is a great way to insulate a roof as long as you have enough of it and reach efficient R value (insulation Value) The rafters/roof framing/ trusses must be hermetically sealed in order to be effective, This method is highly recommended in a vaulted or attic type ceiling. If there is no air then there is no chance of condensation, as for the the dew point, it would exist at the center of the foam which is clearly impossible, no vapor barrier or air barrier required. It is costly.