homnspector

Maybe you should brush your teeth first, then smell the water!

dad-dun-it

The circuit board is the only thing that makes sense to me. Even if the limit switch is bad the burner should shut down if the blower quits unless it is a bad limit switch plus a bad pressure switch which is unlikely.

I had somebody tell me how to check the elements once. I think it was disconnect the power. Disconnect the wiring from the elements. Check the continuity between terminals (should be). Check for continuity between each terminal at the water heater tank (should be none).

I hesitate to offer Brian any electrical advice but I agree with Terrance and others, continuity may not tell you if the element is heating. Try the amp meter.

I think I understand the problem..

I would say that there is no way to answer that question based on the info in the column. I have to say I routinely find no problems with systems that aren't installed "to code". I'm not a code inspector. Do I really care about the spacing of supports if there is no sagging? Do you know the code from 10 years ago in your area? If the HI missed an obvious problem I don't think the time is a factor. If the problem is a technicality with no big issues over 10 years, I would say "so sue me".

I'm with Chad, I have 3 stingers and an ultrastinger and very rarely use them. I have pretty much switched to the 5 watt led's, 2 for $30 at costco. The batteries last a long time and no recharge hassles.

All the installers around are pushing these. I was in the market for new equipment about a year ago, they all tried to sell me hybrid. with propane at over $3 a gallon there was no way it was a good idea, but I couldn't convince them of that. The HVAC guys around here have a hard time converting therms/gallons/BTU/ KWH. I ran the numbers and it was about 1/2 to run off electricity versus propane and about the 3/4 to run the strip heat. With natural gas there may be some savings but not much. I finally decided on a heat pump with heat strips and am saving about 30% over my old propane/electric equipment from 1996. Course it cost me $10,000 to save $100 per month.

I haven't been doing this long but it seems to me that the technology may be rocket science but interpreting the pics isn't. I am considering level I for liability and credential reasons. It is expensive and probably a bunch of stuff I really don't need to know. If you consider that anything found has to be verified by other means anyway, its not that critical if you think the cold/hot spot is missing insulation or a water leak.

Cary, These things have 3 wires. 2 are connected to the (2) 110 volt bus bars by way of 15a breakers dedicated to that purpose (not double tapped unless it is a brand that allows 2 wires). The third wire is grounded. If there is excess current on either bus (like 600 volts) it is diverted to the ground. The only reason for connecting them to a breaker (rather than directly to the bus) is so the supressor doesn't start a fire if it shorts out. I don't beleive it matters where in the main panel it is installed. Most that I see are double tapped either under the bus terminals or another breaker which is not the correct way. Big deal? Probably not but I would call it out.

Cary, you are correct, that's what it shows and that is not the way it should be installed. What more could you want? Maybe a correct diagram.

I would call it a furnace if it is an enclosed type like an Apollo rather than an underfloor system.

39215. It's just like real hunting, the trick isn't to aim, the trick is to get the lead : air ratio as high as possible.

You get to hold the head[:-crazy]