Stephen Lagueux

Ok, Thanks Marc, appreciated

What is this thing called technically? Thanks. Click to Enlarge 34.17 KB

I guess it's all in the wording. You are right when saying ventilation won't EXTEND roof life. According to my sources, ventilation will help PREVENT premature deterioration of the shingles. Unless the following 2 groups are wrong, I would love to be pointed to the right direction so I could learn. http://www.asphaltroofing.org/sites/def ... acts_0.pdf http://www.casma.ca/en/bulletin_01.shtml

you know Bill, you're absolutely right. who am I to simply suggest the services of an expert. I was wrong all along. I should not have given her that advice (and I thought that was our job,silly me). I'll let you guys take the role of the expert. I don't have that need to feel that I'm right by talking other colleague's opinion down. have a good one. Good luck Lorlee

It'd be surprising not to have insulation at all but there could be some missing or could simply be inadequate and the absence of vapor barrier is quite possible also. Those plankboards could also have been installed without any air space behind. The walls, ceilings, floors and roof of a house are what we call the envelope. Those components have to meet minimum construction standards. If the envelope is compromised in any way or does not meet minimum standards, that can lead to problems. As far as the paint is concerned, I used to own a small paint manufacture back in the 80s and it's true that the mildewcide was removed from the formulas. Some had problems adjusting back then but it's not supposed to pose any problems today. For the mildew problem to be recurrent every year, it means humidity is coming from behind (inside the wall). The paint will act as a vapor barrier and emprison it until mildew appears and will then be eaten away. Humidity will also make it peel off due to lack of adherance. You need to find out how this humidity is formed in the first place. This is why an envelope specialist would be needed in your case. He will check the construction of the walls by doing a localized deconstrutive investigation and will make recommendations.

I wish I was still living in the US sometimes, it's the far west here in QC and there is no statute of limitation

That is pretty much how all insurance works! Ya gotta have it in place prior to anything that might be covered happening! yup, and the day you stop doing inspections, you either keep paying for a few years or you hope you never get sued while retired.

just keep in mind that it will only cover you for the inspections you make after purchasing the coverage.

Well, if that is the case, don't look any further. You need an envelope specialist.

if you can, take pictures of the slab in the garage and basement

do you guys have any problems with pyritye backfill in your part of the country? Many houses have problemes here in Qc, especially in the Montreal metropolitain area. Garages and basements slabs will raise and crack due to pyrite.

I agree with John, condensation inside the wall due to lack or bad insulation and/or vapor barrier. Who knows what these boards are hiding. As you all know, mildew is the product of a combination of many factors. Absence of mildewcide in the paint will not make mildew appear out of the blue. It simply protects the cellulose in the paint film from being eaten away by those micro-organisms.

could not have said it better myself, short and straight to the point. Here is my clumsy way of explaining it. Dew point will occur when the cold air meets the warmer air somewhere mid insulation depending on temperature differential from outside to inside, RH and GPP. If a proper vapor barrier has been installed on the warm side, that water has nowhere to go if the insulation is tight against the sub roof. That's where ventilation is important. The air space needed between the roof and the insulation provides a passage way for the warm air to rise out through the vent. That air movement creates a chimney effect that sucks air in from the ventilated soffit. The movement of that air on the insulation surface creates an evaporation effect and lowers the vapor pressure at the surface. The water located in the insulation at the dew point level will be attracted to the lower pressure area which is the surface of the insulation. The more the water goes to the surface, the more evaporation takes place and excess humidity now in the air goes out the vent depending on proper ventilation and the insulation remains dry. If no air space was there, water would still be attracted to the surface as long as the sub roof is dry. That water now in the wood has nowhere to go and that's when problems begin.

Ever tried to replace plywood affected by water intrusion that chemical foam has been sprayed underneath? Keep the air space, that is primordial for a long lasting roof. Make sure air gets in from the eaves and out through a proper vent such as a ridge vent. If you want to maximize R value without doing any major transformation, add from the bottom. A 1 1/2 inch foil-faced polyisocyanurate board will add another 10.8 to the R value (over 11 with air space and drywall). The floor and all the plumbing and ventilation componants have to be properly insulated and a vapor barrier is also needed (on the warm side). Make sure you have proper ventilation underneath the home. Have a professional do the job.

keep the 2 inch space for ventilation, make sure the vapor barrier is continuous and covers the entire ceiling without any gaps. make sure the floor is insulated adequatly ventilate Have an expert do the job

without taking any sides here, I'd love to see a good debate between the reaserch, scientific microbial community and home inspectors to see what could be learned from each other.

if realtors want to increase their odds of selling, than they just need pre list inspections. That way sellers know what to expect and can make repairs before it goes on the market. Odds of selling have increased dramatically by having fixed what could've scared away a serious buyer. No one would then be accused of being a deal breaker by being too picky.

I wonder if the inspector who condemned the house (once the walls are torn out) would've done it 6 years ago?

They all got bent out of shape last week after this show on tv that showed this old lady who bought a mobile home that was full of mold. She had it inspected but the guy's name must've been Magoo and never saw anything. After playing the emotional card and after a good river crying on camera, the whole province got pitty of her and now they want to regulate all of a sudden.

thanks for the input. two different systems entirely.

We hardly have any flat roof in my neck of the woods but had to inspect one yesterday. two story house, the roof drain comes down the wall and exits to the side of the house about 4-5 feet high. There is no plumbing vent on the roof but I noticed this configuration (pic here below) letting me suggest that the plumbing vent has been connected to the drainage column. I say this combination is wrong but not sure, any thoughts? The top portion is the drain exiting the side wall. The lower portion would be the plumbing vent. Click to Enlarge 70.65 KB

Impressive, that image really shows the wrinckles. High resolution camera really take nice pictures. Thanks

It's a flir E60BX

Nah, no wider view. The pic was taken with the default lens. I'm expecting a 45? lens wich should arrive any day now. can't wait to see the difference. I'm also thinking that those are wires.

It's nice to have more than 1 brain to try to figure this out. Heres a pic where we can see the foil. There is actually a 3/4 inch furring strip over the insulation pannel. I was wrong to say wooden studs earlier. This pattern would be consistant throughout the basement. So it would be the insulation, the foil, the furring strip and then the drywall. If those are wires, they would be within the 3/4 in. space. and yes, those would point to outlets. Click to Enlarge 71.05?KB