wingfoot

I don't think so. How do you know no power was found unless you are using a meter or another tool to check for power? I am not going to the trouble of trouble shooting the problem? Maybe or the bulb, wiring or switch, but that is ok if they believe that because it might be that or who knows what else. I just suggest changing the bulb and checking the light because that is typically what it is. My two cents for what it's worth.

I'm basically on the same page. I list as a defect where each light that didn't operate and simply write have seller replace bulb and check for proper operation prior to closing. I however use a disclaimer about motion control lights that I don't verify these. As far as receptacles I use the high visibilty dots and write the problem on the dot eg; loose or open ground. Then I list the defect in the report, Upstairs rear right bedroom has receptacle with an open ground, marked with colored dot.

Boy, do I feel dumb. assiduously Constant in application or attention; diligent: I need a dictionary to read that or hire an attorney.

Another way to get past the guard is to walk in and even though you don't have cards in the back, tell her that you have some updated cards and want to replace your old cards that are in the back. She'll assume that you've been there before and will wave you on past. It hasn't failed me yet. It will seem like a waste of time due to how many other inspectors cards are stacked up on the shelf but you still need to get them in there since you're new. Some agents especially new ones will grab 3 and give them to their client to choose from and who knows that agent may like you and become a good money maker for you in the future. Good luck, you'll need it with home sales slowing now.

IRC R802.3 Framing Details. Rafters shall be framed to ridge board or to each other with a gusset plate as a tie. Ridge board shall be at least 1-inch nominal thickness and not less in depth than the end cut of the rafter.

Call 1-800-ASK-BOOK or WWW.BuildingTechBooks.com It is 39.95 + shipping. That's about the cheapest I was able to find.

I appreciate the help everyone. By the way I am ordering a Preston's Guide today, I should have ordered one long ago. By the way the unit really cooled well for that age. I took a temperature at the supply of 52 degrees. Case closed.

Thanks Terry. hausdok, go take some deep breaths, hold and slowly release.

Carrier: Age is incorporated into the serial number. Through 1969, the first digit of the serial number indicates the year of manufacture. Example: 3xxxxxx = 1963, 4xxxxxx = 1964, etc. 1970 and later, a letter followed by a number indicates the month and year of manufacture. Example: A1 = January 1971, B1 = February 1971, C4 = March 1974 etc. A = Jan B = Feb C = Mar D = Apr E = May F = Jun G = Jul H = Aug J = Sep K = Oct L = Nov M = Dec I am assuming the unit is likely from the 80's and installed with the furnace in 1988. According to your post from Home Tech if it is indeed from the 80's my serial number should begin with a letter and mine didn't, it begins with a zero. So I still don't know.

Carrier A/C Unit Model- 38ER036300 S/N- 0461363 Anybody got a date on this unit? The furnace was a Carrier 1988 model. This unit looks about the same. Is it a 3 ton or 2.5 ton? I know. I've got to purchase a Preston's Guide. ASHI has for them 80 bucks, anyone found it cheaper than that? Thanks,

Paul, I might be able to send you some percentages from our testing by email that our company has compiled for metro Atlanta. Typically, in your neck of the woods, the readings are higher than we get on the south side. I'll dig around and see what I can find. By the way you can go to epa.gov and follow the radon link and pull up a map of the U.S. and see where it is high.

Scott, If it is the same house keep us posted.

I feel like you mgb I like being finished when I leave. I probably complete 10% at home. If I feel I need to research something or the house is so disgusting that I just want to get out because my skin is crawling, then I'll go home. Another reason I don't like doing them at home it seems to take me twice as long at home with all the distractions there. There has been a time when I have finished at the property and I've been driving home and said "crap" and forgot to put something in the report. I always tell the client the emailed copy they receive that night always supersedes the printed one on site, in case of changes.

That is really bizarre that your boilerplate would say using copper pipe for gas is wrong. It is all over the IRC Ch.24 about using copper tubing in gas applications. Regionally it is not an issue here. Maybe in your area. Page 2 here we come!

A little clarity may be needed from me. It wasn't the use of copper tubing for gas lines that I was concerned with, I see it used all the time here in metro Atlanta. It was seeing the copper inside of the fireplace itself that I had not seen, only black iron and flex pipe. I was unsure if the heat would be factor or not.

This has probably been discussed on here before but I didn't find it. How long has the drywall between townhomes & condos been required to be fire rated? I've inspected 30+ year old units that didn't have fire rated drywall between them in the attic and I called it out. Is that correct? What year did that become a requirement?

No problem, ya'll are cheap entertainment. We may even get two pages out of it.

Copper is allowed in my area for gas, I was unsure of the use inside the fireplace and the routing of the tubing.

I am used to seeing flex metal gas lines inside the fireplace for gas logs but haven't seen copper tubing before. Is this ok? Download Attachment: FPCopperTubing.jpg 199.9 KB

Thanks, I was picturing a large plug in device. I was way off.

I've never seen a "Wiggy", anyone have a photo of one and where can you buy them at?

I ran across something odd today on a new construction inspection and wanted to see if anyone had this happen before. I was testing a Jacuzzi tub duplex receptacle for GFCI protection with the pump running and I plugged in the lower outlet with my receptacle tester and got an open hot reading. I then moved the plug into the lower outlet and my tester to the upper outlet and got the same reading. I went and got my digital multi-meter to check the voltage and got less than a volt reading on it. Now I am really confused, so I plugged the pump back in and it ran it as I did before and I let it run for 10 minutes like I normally do and went back and plugged the tester back in and got the 2 yellow lights for a normal reading. I came back a few minutes later to check again and got the open hot reading again, unbelieveable. By now I had burned enough time messing with it, so I installed access panel and moved on. Has anyone had anything like this happen?

I inform them in the report if it's a 3 or 4 prong receptacle.

Thanks Bill, That web link you gave had the information I needed. "Catawba Siding manufactured by Georgia-Pacific has a smooth back and may be identified by one or more manufacturing stamps or numeric codes like those illustrated below: A numeric code that may contain the letters "GP" or "USP" for example: 2 21: 38 257 89 GP 2 21:38 257 87 USP 13:25 365 96 GP 07:11 10 04 96" It appears it is Catawba siding. I usually don't go to this much trouble identifying what brand of siding it is but I had such a good look at the siding from behind I figured I would try and track it down. BTW, this house had Polybutylene PB2110 as well but the current owners had the whole house re-piped with copper at no cost from the class action. It seems anytime I inspect a house from the mid-80's to mid-90's around my area it usually has the double whammy, PB & or some type of composite hardboard. As always thanks for the info.

Can anyone tell what type of siding this is from the stamp on the back? The house was built in 1988, so I am assuming the "88" is for the year manufactured. Sorry I didn't get a close up photo of the front, but I guess I am correct that it is one type of composition hardboard. The stamp reads; "1 050 88 OSP C" Download Attachment: Siding.jpg 182.58 KB