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Concrete and Clay Roof Tile Installation Manual (Mortar Set) This pdf file published by the Florida Roofing, Sheet Metal and Air Conditioning Contractors Association Inc., is a detailed 154 page manual that includes virtually every type of concrete or clay roof configuration that inspectors in Florida and the gulf coast region will see. Concrete and clay tile roofs suffered a lot of damage in the regions hit by hurricanes Katrina & Wilma. This manual is a good addition for the bookshelf of any inspector who regularly sees these installations but it will be invaluable for inspectors from outside that region who are working as sub-contractors for one of the FEMA contractors doing damage assessments of hurricane damaged homes. To download your copy, go to the Monier Roofing Tile site. Find other free downloads here. Find discussions about other inspection-related topics on TIJ's Other Forums

Hurricane Katrina - Structural Performance of Wood-Frame Buildings in the Aftermath The Engineered Wood Association has just released this document as a free pdf download on their website. It's basically a 20-page report (including photographs) done by several of their personnel who served on one of the initial damage assessment teams. Interesting reading. To download the report go here. Visit www.apawood.org/katrina for additional APA news and information on Hurricane Katrina. You may have to register to access these. However, it only takes a minute or so and they don't spam those who have registered. They never send anyone unsolicited emails. Read about more inspection topics on TIJ's Other Forums

Log onto any internet discussion forum for home inspectors and one of the most hotly debated topics is always how to properly inspect and test overhead doors and the automatic entrapment safety features of any automatic openers used to control them. It's one of those topics that is usually initiated when an inspector laments the fact that an unhappy homeowner is demanding that the inspector pay for damages to an overhead door or an opener that were caused when the inspector tested the opening device. Though the inspector might have initially brought up the subject seeking advice on how to deal with the homeowner's complaint, the thread rarely stays on topic and these discussions usually end up focusing on whether the inspector's inspection/testing method is proper. That's where the controversy begins. Being home inspectors and being used to offering opinions on all manner of things, there is never any shortage of opinions offered by respondents to the thread initiator on how to go about testing these devices and whether or not the inspector's actions actually led to the damage. Ultimately, the threads usually devolve into war stories about past experiences and no consensus ever seems to be reached about which is the proper method. In fact, instead of narrowing the scope of methods available, every new discussion on the topic seems to produce a new, and sometimes bizarre, testing method that is enthusiastically promulgated by one or two respondents. My curiosity aroused by one of these debates, I decided to do a little research on my own in the hopes of finding a single standard on which to hang my hat for inspecting and testing overhead doors and their openers. I eventually found what I was looking for and since then have utilized what I believe to be the only defensible method for inspecting these devices. A little bit of history ANSI UL Standard 325 is the standard with which all automatic garage door and gate operating devices must comply. It was initially announced in 1973 and amended in 1982 to set initial requirements for residential garage door operators, sensing devices and motion sensors. Because those initial requirements were pretty rudimentary and didn't provide nearly as much protection for consumers as they do today, installers and consumers widely ignored precautions contained in the manufacturers' instructions and accidents were inevitable. Consequently, On October 7th 1988 the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) issued a safety alert citing the death of 32 children, between the ages of 2 and 14, who'd died between 1982 and 1988 after being pinned by garage doors. In that initial release, CPSC urged parents to keep remote control devices locked up and door switches mounted high, out of arms reach for a child. Six months later, after the deaths of four more children, CPSC issued another warning to homeowners, particularly parents and grandparents to replace any garage door opener that didn't have an automatic reverse function, with one which had been certified to meet UL 325 as amended in 1982. This is the first memo wherein CPSC recommended that consumers test these devices every 30 days by placing a 2 inch thick wooden block on the floor in the path of the door's travel. If the door didn't reverse, the CPSC release recommended repairing or replacing the device to bring it into compliance. Roughly a year and a half later in October of 1990, after an additional 9 children were killed, CPSC issued another warning that cautioned homeowners that units manufactured before 1982 didn't meet the standards of UL 325. The notice went on to explain that some older openers were designed only to stop when encountering an object(clutch type) while others were supposed to reverse but didn't for a variety of reasons, and couldn't be repaired or adjusted to bring them into compliance. Again, CPSC recommended that homeowners test their doors using the 2" thick wood block method and, if the door didn't reverse properly, to disengage the mechanism and call for repairs. In those cases where openers didn't have any auto-reverse feature, CPSC recommended disconnecting the opener until it could be replaced with one meeting the standard. By then, CPSC had met with manufacturers to urge them to intensify their efforts at informing homeowners about the dangers of these devices and had published rules that specifically required any overhead door opener manufactured after January 1, 1991 to have entrapment protection. This was the first notice wherein CPSC informed the public that post-1982 units could be retrofitted with "electric eyes" "near" floor level, and, besides the usual warnings about switches and controllers, this notice warned homeowners to ensure they are periodically checking their track rollers and other hardware. By October 1992, after an additional 3 children had been killed, CPSC published a final set of rules for all automatic residential garage door openers manufactured on or after January 1993 for sale in th Unites States. These rules included provisions for mandatory secondary entrapment devices as well as certification requirements and record keeping for manufacturers and subsequently became Federal Law (16CFR1211) and were published on December 3rd 1992. So, Exactly What is the proper testing method? 16CFR1211 states that an automatic door opening device must stop and reverse the direction of the door within two seconds of encountering a 1-inch high object placed at the center of the door in the line of travel on the floor. Once it encounters the object, the opener must return the door to its full-up position. For testing purposes, the rule allows use of a 2 by 4 (1-1/2" thick) placed flat on the floor as an exception, but does not approve of any other method of testing, ie. standing and holding the door with one's hand; placing cardboard boxes, a roll of paper towels, weight-gauging devices or empty and capped plastic soft-drink bottles under the door's edge as it is closed. Since this is the only method mentioned in the rule, anyone who is testing a door anywhere above the height of a 2 by 4, or with anything but a 2 by 4, is taking a chance on lightening his or her wallet. While other methods might be just as effective, these devices are built to comply with only this standard. So, if an inspector breaks a door or opener while testing it with another method, he/she might be hard-pressed to prove that those actions didn't directly contribute to the damage. Bottom line, the federal standard has been set - stick to it and consider it a gift to all home inspectors. Using any other method is foolhardy. How much down-pressure is too-much? Unless overhead door openers have been adjusted to exert only light pressure before reversing, at 1-1/2 inches off the floor they will not reverse and the 2 by 4 ends up trapped. When properly adjusted they kick back with hardly any back pressure at all. However, lighten the down-pressure adjustment too much and the door will go down, strike the floor and return to the upright position - even when the travel adjustment is properly set. This is where home inspectors can get into trouble. Much is made by home inspectors of the down-force they feel when trying to hold one of these doors as it is being closed. Many inspectors actually write up doors for having what they believe to be excessive down-force, despite the fact that the door opener does stop and return the door within two seconds as required by the law. Are they right? Maybe not. 16CFR1211 does not specifically state there is an acceptable or unacceptable pressure or weight allowed before the door must reverse. What the residential standard does state is that, except for the first foot of it's travel from the fully-opened position, that a downward-moving door has to come to a complete stop and reverse within 2 seconds of contact with a 1-inch high object. So, a homeowner who pays an overhead door mechanic to adjust a door and is then told by the mechanic that the door is properly set might be completely justified in demanding that the inspector make reimbursement for an unnecessary service call. There is one paragraph in 16CFR1211 wherein the parameters for UL testing have been set forth by CPSC where one might infer from the text that there is a quasi-standard of 15 pounds (66.7 newtons) pressure for these devices. That section deals with doors equipped with a bottom edge sensor that doubles as a door gasket and states that testing must be done along the entire edge of the door. Since it must initiate reversal with 15 lbs of pressure on a door equipped with an edge sensor, logic seems to dictate that this standard should apply to other doors as well. However, these are only testing parameters for UL. The rule doesn't say anything about homeowners, installers or home inspectors utilizing this as a means to gauge whether a door is closing with too much force or not. So, though one might be able to infer that more than 15lbs of down-pressure is unacceptable, unless the door is equipped with edge sensors it probably won't stand up in court. Bottom line, the door must stop and re-open itself within two seconds of striking the object on the floor and, unless the entire bottom edge of the door is equipped with a 15lb. sensor strip, the amount of down-force can exceed 15lbs. If the opener can't meet this requirement, write it up. How about secondary entrapment devices and controls? The rule also sets standards for the photo-electric sensors commonly used as secondary entrapment safety devices. According to the rule, the maximum height at which they should be placed is what the manufacturer's instructions state. However, the rule also states that they must be able to detect a vertical object 6-inches high by 1-ft. wide placed at the center of the door and one foot from each end of the opening. Since I often find these devices mounted anywhere from one foot to several feet off the floor - and even found one set mounted on the ceiling of a garage - I spoke with Allen Claxton, the UL Standards Tech at Genie Overhead Door Corporation to see what height they recommend. According to Claxton, Genie recommends installing them between 4 and 6 inches off the floor, since mounted any higher they won't be able to meet the object standard. The rule also goes into graphic detail about the placement height and location for door operator controls and mandatory placement of instruction sheets - including the colors of instruction sheet and even the size of the font to be used. Switches must be installed no closer than 5' to the nearest standing surface - not the garage floor - so a child can't reach them from either the floor of the garage or the floor of the room leading into the garage. I find them installed 5' off garage floors all the time, right next to a step-up from the garage to the house where a child can reach them easily. Look for the red, black, orange and white safety decal that is supposed to be mounted near the wall-mounted control button. It might seem like a quibble, but I often find them missing - even on brand new homes - and the law says they are required. I once asked a builder if he knew where one of these stickers was. "What sticker?" the builder asked. "You know, the one that federal law says is supposed to be on the wall next to that control," I answered. His face went blank. "Where's the instruction booklet for the opener," I asked? He led me into the kitchen to a drawer full of literature, dug around and came up with a plastic bag full of instructions for the door and opener, including the sticker. When I explained that a federal law requires that the sticker to be installed near the controls, he asked me, "How come the guy who installs my openers and the code guys don't know that?" "Good question," I responded, "Why don't you ask them?" It seems home inspectors aren't the only ones who are still poorly informed about these devices. What about the rest of the door? There's more to inspecting a garage door than just testing the opening device. The first thing one should look at is how the mounting brackets for the opening device, tracks and springs are secured to the walls and ceilings and how each component is bolted to these. It's not unusual to find them loose or damaged. Ensure that the opener is solidly bolted to the brackets and that the bracket holding the other end of the opener is properly and securely anchored to the wall/header above the overhead door? If there a dedicated outlet for the opener, ensure that it is close enough to the opener that an extension cord isn't necessary. If the hardware is loose or missing, write it up. If there isn't an outlet within reach of the cord, write it up. If the door is wood or a wood composite, before opening it, determine whether it has ever been primed and painted properly on the inside surface and all edges. Every single wood or wood byproduct overhead door manufacturer requires these doors be primed and painted before installation or the warranty is void. You can usually find the instructions clearly printed on a label attached to the door or stenciled on the inside surface. Why is priming and painting them so important? Well, when a car is driven into a garage in rainy or snowy weather and the rain or snow ends up on the garage floor, it evaporates and then condenses against the thinnest membrane in the garage - usually the door - and then begins to foster mildew growth. The mildew feeds on and softens the glue in the finger-jointed stiles and rails of the door, or in the lamina, and causes the joints to separate and the panels to delaminate. So, if the door isn't properly primed and painted on all surfaces, write it up. With the door in the down position check the lift cables for fraying and examine the torsion spring and axles for cracks in the axle, signs of slippage where the torsion springs are anchored to their axles or broken spring segments. If any fraying or broken spring segments are found, write it up. It's very important to check the tightness of the nuts and bolts that secure every hinge to the door. These are loose 9 out of 10 doors that I check and will re-loosen in only about 4 months, if lock washers or star washers aren't used. I was explaining this to a client once when she interrupted me and said, "You don't need to explain this part to me. My grandfather is paralyzed from the neck down because he failed to properly maintain his garage door. He walked into his garage one day, hit the opener button and began walking over to his car. Just as he reached the side of the car, that 18ft. wide wood door jumped it's track, fell on him and broke his neck." There was kind of an awkward silence for about five seconds as I absorbed that, at which point I expressed my sympathies and we moved on. So, if the hardware is loose or missing, write it up. Run each door up and down a couple of times. Ensure the door is moving smoothly and isn't hanging up in the track. Check every dolly axle while doing so. It's amazing how many of these are missing ball bearings and are ready to pop off the track. Check the doors balance by disengaging the emergency relief handle with the door in the down position and manually raising the door and ensuring that it will remain in several positions along the length of it's travel without slamming shut. The door needs to be neutrally balanced, so it should not be difficult to lift and should remain in whatever position you leave it at any height. Check the height of the emergency release handle and ensure that it is at least 6' above the floor. If the door binds, there are bearings missing, the door isn't neutrally balanced or the handle is less than six feet off the floor, write it up. When the door is in the full-up position and uses side springs instead of torsion springs, examine the springs for weak over-stretched sections, and look for safety wires in the side springs. Any loose dolly wheels or axles, weak springs and missing safety wires should be written up. In conclusion, these doors are often the single largest and heaviest moving object in a home and no home inspector can afford to screw up this part of the inspection. Making a mistake here can place a homeowner or client's safety at risk and might ultimately jeopardize an inspector's reputation and financial well being. Doing the job right means doing it to a published standard and no published standard is more defensible than the law. A copy of 16CFR1211 can be located and downloaded here. A technical data sheet (#167) that summarizes these rules and can be used as a handout for clients, as well as periodic maintenance instructions for overhead doors and their openers, can be downloaded free at the Door & Access Systems Manufacturers Association (DASMA) website. Find additional technical topics on TIJ's Technical Forums Find discussions about other inspection-related topics on TIJ's Other Forums

Lining Corrosion can be defined as the destructive attack of a metal by an electrochemical reaction with its environment. Steel exposed to moisture and oxygen will rust and corrode. Corrosion is defined as the ‘eating away’ of metal by electrochemical means. There are four main factors affecting water’s ability to corrode: 1. Acidity - Water is made acidic by naturally occurring dissolved gases such as carbon dioxide. 2. Temperature - Higher temperatures speeds up the corrosive process. 3. Amount of dissolved oxygen - Free oxygen dissolved in the water promotes corrosion. 4. Electrical conductivity - The more dissolved mineral solids in the water, the greater its ability to carry electrical current. When dissimilar metals are in the water:electrical current flows between metals. one of the metals gradually corrodes faster than the other. Dissimilar metals are present in the interior steel tank surfaces of all water heaters in several forms such as the drain nipples, heating elements, inlet and outlet nipples, and immersion thermostats. These metals, and others present in the water itself, combined with the oxygen content of the water and heat, establish an environment conducive to corrosion. The dissimilar metals create a corrosion cell that is enhanced by the conductivity of the water. The anode is installed to overcome (neutralize) the corrosive cell. The Porcelain (glass) Lining In a water heater, corrosion is protected by a glass (actually a porcelain enamel) lining in the steel tank, and the use of auxiliary anode rods. Porcelain enamel begins as a blend of minerals mixed in a manner to form liquid slurry. This slurry, resembling a thin mud, is sprayed onto the inner surfaces of the water heaters. During the manufacturing process, the inside water tank and both the top and bottom heads are sprayed with a slurry of glass material. After the tanks are sprayed, they are fired at very high temperatures - generally ranging from 1500 to 1600 degrees Fahrenheit. While in the furnace, the porcelain bonds with the metal to create more than a coating. It forms an inseparable compound merging the chemical makeup of the porcelain glass lining and metal resulting in a new, chemically unique, finish. This glass provides a long life to the steel tank; otherwise, the tank would fail or corrode in a relatively short time. Every glass lined water tank, no matter how carefully it is manufactured, has some bare metal exposed. This is due to the inability to effectively cover sharp corners and the radius around the fittings. There is a chance that a crack or chip in the porcelain lining will allow the water to come in contact with the steel tank. Over time, water, a universal solvent that becomes more aggressive with temperature, slowly dissolves the interior tank lining. This will create conditions for corrosion, pinholes in the tank and finally tank failure. Cathodic protection Cathodic protection is accomplished in the glass lined water heater by using an auxiliary magnesium anode. Due to the relative position of magnesium to steel in the electromotive series of metals, magnesium will corrode, producing an abundance of electrons which flow (much the same an electrical current) to the exposed steel surface and maintaining it in the electro-negative state. As current flow takes place, the anode rod reacts chemically to corrode at a rate faster than the steel inner tank. This process stops tank corrosion by substituting the sacrificial magnesium anode rod in place of the steel tank. As long as the magnesium anode rod remains in the tank, in an active state, there will be no corrosion of the minute areas of exposed steel inside the tank. Anode Rods The life of the anode, in turn, depends on water temperature, amount of water used, and the quality of the glass lining. However, the most important factor in the life of the anode rod is the water chemistry, the hardness or softness of the water. Water softeners contribute to the change in water chemistry. Indirectly, softened water acts to reduce the service life of the anode, since its current demand becomes drastically higher. Also, check the manufacture and installation date of the water heater. If the heater is more than five (5) years old, and the anode rod has not been replaced, inspect the anode rod. The anode should be replaced when there is six (6) inches or more exposed core wire at either end. From time to time, questions are raised as to the use of the R-tech, magnesium, and aluminum anode rods. Generally, these questions are raised in areas where some unusual water problems occur with resultant odors. For many years, the regular magnesium anode was and is the standard anode for use in water heaters tanks. In general, it is a very good anode; however, the performance is dependent on water chemistry. In waters where the conductivity is low, the anode operates at a very low current level. This means not much cathodic protection. Conversely, where the water conductivity is high, an excessive amount of current is produced with inefficient operation. This will sacrifice the anode sooner than predicted and require more frequent replacement. In addition, some of these waters have excessive sulfate content along with various strains of sulfate reducing bacteria (see Document 1206). These bacteria, harmless to health, will grow in the presence of the highly active magnesium anode rod and using the hydrogen ion from the anode-cathode reaction, will produce hydrogen sulfide gas. The gas smells like rotten eggs. The greater the activity of the anode, the more hydrogen ions are produced – and the more hydrogen sulfide (smelly) gas. These bacteria can be killed with adequate additions of chlorine, such as with an automatic chlorine feeder. Aluminum has often been used in these types of installations because of the lower activity level of the anode. This is brought about by the lower voltage potential of the anode. Due to these lower levels of activity, lower quantities of hydrogen ions are produced. This reduces or alleviates the odor producing potential of the sulfate reduction of the bacteria. While the problems are reduced with the aluminum anode rod, they are certainly not eliminated. The R-tech anode rod was developed to operate in a broad range of waters without the sensitivity to the various water conditions. The anode, or a variation there of, has been used over 15 years in gas water heaters with minimal problems with odors. With the invention of the resistored electric heating element, Rheem now uses the Rtech anode rod in electric water heaters. In doing this, we are now able to efficiently utilize the R-tech anode in all type of water conditions. Because the R-tech anode rod performance equals or exceeds the performance of the aluminum anode rod, we have eliminated the aluminum anode rod from our product line since 1993. How to Replace the Anode Rod CAUTION: Draining your water heater for this procedure may put you at risk of being scalded by hot water. Please be careful when working on your water heater. 1. Turn the power OFF to the water heater at the circuit breaker (electric heater) or main gas line (gas heater). 2. Fasten a length of garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the heater. Put the other end of the garden hose in the nearest floor drain or snake it outside the home. 3. Close the shut off valve at the cold water inlet line. 4. Open the temperature and pressure relief valve at the top of the heater. This will relieve pressure inside the tank. Now open the drain valve and allow about a gallon of the water to drain. You will probably notice some small white particles (called scale or sediment) during the early stages of the flow. CAUTION: THE WATER WILL BE HOT...........BE SURE NO ONE IS NEAR THE DRAIN HOSE OR THEY COULD BE SCALDED. 5. After about a gallon of water, close the drain valve and remove the hose. Leave the temperature and pressure relief valve at the top of the heater open for the time being. 6. Remove the old anode rod with a 1 and 1/16 inch six-sided wrench or socket. Do NOT use a 12-point wrench or socket or you will strip the head of the anode. Get at least a 24-inch cheater bar. I keep a piece of 3/4 inch black iron pipe in the garage just for this purpose. Place the cheater pipe over the socket handle. Have someone hold the water heater while you slowly break the seal. Once broken, the anode removes quite easily. 7. Replace with a new anode rod. It is a 3/4-inch National Pipe Thread (NPT) part. You may find one at any plumbing house or home store. Use pipe sealer or Teflon tape to seal the threads. Snug it down tight. Remember the water heater builds up 150 PSI of pressure inside the tank. 7. Open a hot water faucet somewhere in the home. Open the shut off valve at the cold water inlet line. You will hear the heater start to fill. 8. When you have a steady stream of water from the temperature and pressure valve tube, close the valve; when you have a steady stream of water from the hot water faucet, turn the faucet off. 9. Turn the power ON to the water heater at the circuit breaker (electric heater) or main gas line (gas heater; relight pilot if required). Allow the water heater to recover. Check the anode rod one more time to make sure it is tight and there are no leaks. This Rheem Technical Bulletin is provided through special arrangement between Rheem Manufacturing Company and The Inspector's Journal. It's said that a picture is worth a thousand words. For a printer-friendly version of this article, including photos, to give your customers, click on this link. You can find additional plumbing-related topics at TIJ's Plumbing Forum or discussions about other inspection-related topics on TIJ's Other Forums.

On December 20th 2005, CPSC, along with CFM Corporation, of Mississauga, Ontario, Canada, recalled about 10,200 Legacy model propane infrared plaque heaters for a defect that constitutes a carbon monoxide poisoning hazard. As of the time of the CPSC release, the manufacturer had notified all owners of these units and they were reported to have been returned to the manufacturer and no incidents or injuries had been reported. However, since it's possible that a few might have been missed in the recall, inspectors finding them should advise the homeowner to stop using the heater immediately and contact CFM to arrange for a refund of the purchase price or replacement of the product with an equivalent unit. The heaters are propane infrared plaque space heaters sold after September 1, 2005 that were manufactured by Chant Kitchen Equipment, of Guandong, China. They are rectangular in shape with white casings and can be mounted on walls or stand on the floor. The name "Legacy" is centered on the front of each unit immediately below the grill. The manufacturer reported that a non-specification gasket had been used around the heating plaques in these units that could allow carbon monoxide to leak into the area in which the heater is being used. The units affected are model numbers: RMC-LI6LP, RMC-LI10LP, RMC-LI10LPT, RMC-LI18LP-F, RMC-LI18LPT-F, RMC-LI30LP-F and RMC-LI30LPT-F. The model number is located on the right side panel of the unit. All of the heaters were listed by the Canadian Standards Association and sold by hardware retailers and HVAC dealers in the U.S. from September 2005 through November 2005 for between $156 and $290. For more information, contact CFM Corporation toll-free at (866) 333-4833 between 8 a.m. and 8 p.m. ET Monday through Friday or visit the firm’s Web site at www.cfmcorp.com or contact the retailer from which the unit was purchased. To view the original CPSC recall, including photos of the units involved, click here.

On December 15th 2005, CPSC, along with GE Consumer & Industrial, of Louisville, Ky., announced a voluntary recall of 6,600 defective 36-inch and 48-inch gas ranges that pose a fire hazard. As of the date of the CPSC release, G.E. had received reports of six incidents of fire in the control area of these ranges but no injuries or property damage had been reported. According to the manufacturer, these ranges were manufactured with a design flaw that can cause an electrical arc between the wiring and adjacent gas supply tubes at two locations in the control housing of the range, posing a fire hazard. The recalled units are GE Monogram built-in ranges that include models ZDP48N6RH1SS, ZDP48L6RH1SS, ZDP48N4GH1SS, ZDP48L4GH1SS, ZDP48N6DH1SS, ZDP48L6DH1SS, ZDP36N4DH1SS, and ZDP36L4DH1SS with serial numbers starting with DG, FG, GG, HG, LG, MG, RG, SG, TG, VG, ZG, AH, DH, FH, GH, HH, LH, MH, RH, SH. To find the model and serial number, look underneath the bull nose ledge above the range controls. These units were manufactured from February 1, 2004 to October 1, 2005 and were sold by home builders and appliance stores nationwide from February 2004 through November 2005 for between $4,000 and $6,000. Inspectors finding on of these units should inform the homeowner about the hazard and advise him/her to refrain from using the griddle on the 36-inch model or the left front burner and the griddle on the 48-inch model and contact GE immediately to schedule a free, in-home repair. Until the repair is completed, the large oven and all other burners can be used. Consumers should call the Recall Hotline at (866) 696-7583 between 8 a.m. and 8 p.m. ET Monday through Friday and between 8 a.m. and 2 p.m. ET on Saturdays to see if their range is included in this recall, and to arrange for a free service call. Information on the recall is also included in the Recall Information page at http://GEAppliances.com. To view the original CPSC release, including photos of the units involved, click here.

On December 1st 2005, CPSC, along with King of Fans Inc. announced a recall of about 202,000 oil-filled radiator heaters for a possible burn and fall hazard. According to the manufacturer, welds on the heating fins can break, allowing oil to leak out, posing a burn and fall hazard to consumers. At the time of the initial CPSC release, King of Fans Inc. had received 81 reports of incidents involving leaking oil and two reports of minor burns along with two reports of falls in the oil. The units involved are the Maxi-Heatâ„¢ Electric Oil-Filled Radiator Heater, model number 70030, that was distributed by King of Fans Inc. of Fort Lauderdale, Fla. and manufactured in China that were sold at Home Depot stores in the Northeast and Midwest from October 2005 through November 2005 for about $35. These heaters have seven fins, one of which has the control panel attached to it. The units are gray with a black control panel. “Maxi-Heat™â€

On November 22nd 2005, CPSC, in cooperation with Haier America Trading LLC recalled approximately 150,000 oscillating electric tower fans. According to the manufacturer, electrical arcing in the fan can cause a fire hazard. As of the date of the initial CPSC release, Haier had received eight reports of fires or flames associated with this electric fan, including minor property damage and one report of minor burns. The fans are made in Hong Kong by Metropolitan Electric Appliance Co. Ltd. and distributed in the U.S. by Haier American Trading LLC of New York, NY. The recall involves model FTM140GG. It's a gray tower fan that has three speed settings and a 120-minute shut-off timer. “Haierâ€

On October 6th 2005, the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), in cooperation with A.O. Smith Water Products Co., of Ashland City, Tenn., announced a voluntary recall of about 5,000 75-Gallon Propane Gas Water Heaters. According to the manufacturer, the water heaters can accumulate soot on the burners, posing a fire hazard, but, as of the date of the original notice, no incidents or injuries had been reported. The recall involves A.O. Smith brand 75-gallon propane gas water heaters sold under the brand names "A.O.Smith,â€

On September 30th 2005, CPSC and Greenheck Fan Corp. announced a recall of approximately 4,200 sidewall, rooftop and centrifugal inline ventilation units. According to the manufacturer, LUX 3/8-inch spinlock bolts supplied with these units may not have been properly heat treated, which can result in the bolts breaking. Bolt failure during lifting for rooftop installation or after installation could cause the unit or components to fall and injure bystanders. As of the date of the original notice, Greenheck was aware that 309 LUX bolts that had failed in the field but there hadn't been any reports of ventilation units falling injuring anyone. The affected units are sidewall, rooftop and centrifugal inline ventilation units built between August 11, 2004 and April 29, 2005 containing 16 thread-per-inch 3/8-inch by ¾-inch spinlock bolts with LUX head markings. Affected model numbers are RBU, RBUMO, RDU, RB/R, SB/S, and BSU 360-420 with serial numbers 04HXXXXX through 05DXXXXX. The model and serial numbers are found on metal identification plate on the units. The sales representatives and original equipment manufacturers are being contacted directly by Greenheck and the defective bolts will be replaced at no cost. For additional information, contact Greenheck at (800) 931-6579 between 8 a.m. and 5 p.m. CT Monday through Friday, or email Kathy.Lenard@greenheck.com To view the original CPSC release and photos of these units click here.

On September 27th 2005, CPSC, in cooperation with Samsung Electronics Co. Ltd., of South Korea, announced a voluntary recall of about 5,000 Maytag brand front-loading washing machines. According to the manufacturer, if the front-load washer is operated at maximum load capacity, the spinner could malfunction and break apart, posing a safety risk to consumers. As of the date of the original recall, no incidents or injuries had been reported to the manufacturer. The units involved are the white Maytag front-load washers with model number MAH9700 and a serial number from 10188468GA through 11683946GJ. The model and serial numbers are located inside the door opening and below the rubber boot. Though most home inspectors don't normally inspect appliances, unless they are in a state that requires they be inspected and the appliance is included in the sale, home inspectors seeing these units could prevent someone from being injured by informing the homeowners about the potential hazard involved. Samsung recommends that consumers use care not to exceed the listed capacity of their machines contact Maytag for a free in-home service call to replace the washer's control board. To view a copy of the original CPSC release and to see photographs of the units involved click here.

On August 11th 2005, CPSC and The Holmes Group Inc., recalled about 180,000 tower heater fans for a potential fire hazard. According to the manufacturer, the power cord on the units can fray or sever causing the fan to stop working and overheat. This could pose a fire hazard to consumers. As of the date of the original notice, The Holmes Group had received 98 reports of minor property damage to the surface under the heater but no injuries have been reported. The units involved are the Holmes® models HFH6498-U, HFH6500-U and HFH6500TG-U and Bionaire® model BFH3530-U with a date code 2604 through 3804 for all units, except for Holmes® model 6500TG-U, which has date codes ranging from 2604 through 4704. The model and date code can be found on the silver label on the back of the unit. The heater fans are 26 inches tall; come in all gray, two-tone gray, or black and gray; and have either the word Holmes® or Bionaire® printed on the front of the base. Though inspectors don't normally inspect this type of appliance, it would be a shame if a client's new home were to burn down prior to closing because the seller was unaware of this hazard, so inspectors seeing one of these units should consider, as a courtesy, informing the homeowner and advising him/her to stop using the heater and contact The Holmes Group for instructions on receiving a replacement. For additional information, call The Holmes Group at (800) 593-4269 anytime or visit the firm’s Web site at www.holmesheaterrecall.com. To view the original CPSC notice and to see photographs of the recalled heaters click here.

On August 2nd 2005, CPSC and DESA Heating Products announced a recall of 534 “Vanguardâ€

On June 29th 2005, CPSC, in cooperation with LG Electronics and Sears Roebuck & Company recalled about 20,000 LG and Kenmore Elite® Trioâ„¢ Three-Door Refrigerators. According to the manufacturer, LG, a faulty component in the condenser fan motor can short circuit. This could cause the condenser fan motor to overheat, posing a potential fire hazard to consumers. As of the date of the original recall LG had received 82 reports of incidents involving a condenser fan motor failure due to a failed capacitor arcing and smoking. There has been smoke damage in a few incidents. There have been no injuries. These are three-door, 21 to 25 cubic foot units with a bottom freezer. The refrigerators come in titanium, stainless steel, bisque, white or black. Brand names are identified on the door at the top right of the units and the interior data plate. The units have the following model and serial numbers located on the data plate inside the fresh food section of the refrigerator door: Brand Product Model Number Serial Number Range: Kenmore Elite® Trioâ„¢ Trio bottom freezer refrigerator with external filtered water dispenser 21Cu.Ft. 795.7519240* 795.7519340* 795.7519440* 795.7519640* 795.7519940* 25Cu.Ft. 795.7554640* 795.7554940* 795.7555240* 795.7555340* 795.7555440* 25Cu.Ft. 795.7555640* 795.7555940* 795.7554240* 795.7554340* 795.7554440* 405KRxxxxx through 410KRxxxxx LG Three-door bottom freezer refrigerator without water dispenser LRFC21755TT LRFC21755SB LRFC21755ST LRFC25750WW LRFC25750SW LRFC25750SB LRFC25750TT LRFC25750ST 405KRxxxxxxx through 410KRxxxxxxx *Not all refrigerators within the serial number range are included in the recall. Inspectors finding these units should advise the homeowner about the recall and advise them to call LG or Sears to determine whether their refrigerator is included in the recall and, if necessary, to arrange for a free in-home repair. Consumer Contact: Call LG toll-free at (888)294-5782 or Sears at (800) 659-7026 between 8 a.m. and 10 p.m. CT Monday through Saturday. Consumers also can log on to http://us.lge.com or www.sears.com for further information on those models included in the repair program and to arrange for an in-home appointment. To see the original CPSC bulletin, which includes photographs of these appliances click here.

On June 14th, the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), in cooperation with Jøtul North America, of Portland, Maine, announced a voluntary recall of about 3,200 Jøtul gas-fired stoves. According to the manufacturer, movement or misplacement of the stove’s burner can allow propane gas to settle in the heater, resulting in delayed ignition. The delayed ignition could shatter the door glass and pose a laceration hazard to consumers. As of the date of the notice, Jøtul had received six reports of delayed ignition resulting in glass breakage. One laceration injury had been reported. The recall involves two Jøtul models of gas fired stoves - the GF 100 DV II Nordic QT and the GF 200 DV II Lillehammer. The stoves are fueled with liquid propane (LP) gas. The model number (either GF 100 DV II or GF 200 DV II) can be found on the metal rating plate attached to the back of the stove. The stove were sold by Jøtul dealers and distributors nationwide. The GF 100 DV II Nordic QT model for about $1,100 and the GF 200 DV II Lillehammer model for about $1,300 between June 2004 and early April 2005. Consumers should be informed of the hazard and advised to stop using their LP fueled stoves immediately, shut off the gas supply and contact their Jøtul dealers to make arrangements for a free repair. Consumers with recalled units are being personally contacted by dealers who sold the products. Consumers who think that they have recalled units and who have not yet been contacted, should call their dealer for information. For assistance in turning off the gas and arranging for a free repair, consumers should contact their dealer from whom they purchased the stove or their local liquid propane (LP) gas provider. For additional information, consumers also can contact Jøtul toll-free at(877) 451-1048 extension 108 between 8 a.m. and 5 p.m. ET Monday through Friday or log onto the Jøtul Web site at www.jotulflame.com To view the CPSC bulletin and a picture of the product, Click here.

On December 15th 2005 the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), in cooperation with General Electric Corporation, announced a voluntary recall of 6,600 G.E brand 46-inch and 48-inch Monogram series professional gas ranges. According to the manufacturer, these ranges were manufactured with a design flaw that can cause an electrical arc between the wiring and adjacent gas supply tubes at two locations in the control housing of the range, posing a fire hazard. Although no property damage or injuries have been reported yet, to date there has been a total of six incidents of fires in the control areas of these ranges reported, so G.E. says that consumers should stop using these products immediately unless otherwise instructed. These are built-in ranges manufactured from February 1, 2004 to October 1, 2005. The recall includes model numbers ZDP48N6RH1SS, ZDP48L6RH1SS, ZDP48N4GH1SS, ZDP48L4GH1SS, ZDP48N6DH1SS, ZDP48L6DH1SS, ZDP36N4DH1SS, and ZDP36L4DH1SS, with serial numbers that start with the letter codes DG, FG, GG, HG, LG, MG, RG, SG, TG, VG, ZG, AH, DH, FH, GH, HH, LH, MH, RH, SH. To find the model and serial number, look underneath the top ledge (also called the "bull nose") above the range controls. Any customer that purchased one of these ranges should contact G.E. to schedule a free, in-home repair, and, until the repair is completed, stop using the griddle on the 36-inch and 48-inch models and the left front burner on the 48-inch models. The large oven and all other burners can still be used. For more information, consumers should call the recall hotline at (866) 696-7583 between 8 a.m. and 8 p.m. ET Monday through Friday and between 8 a.m. and 2 p.m.ET on Saturdays, to see if their range is included in this recall and to arrange for a free service call. Additional information can be found on the G.E. website To view the CPSC recall online, visit the CPSC website.

Hi, I spoke with Bill yesterday by telephone. Somehow, I'd read the thing wrong and was under the impression that the system was going to allow grandfathering (grandparenting) of established inspectors and did not have mandatory peer review. I was wrong. Apparently, every single inspector will be required to sit a written exam as well as go through a peer review process. Wow. That's leap years beyond what we're doing down here. The various associations here are all crowing about which has the most qualified members by pointing to various exams and entry requirements but not a single one has advocated mandatory testing of all inspectors accompanied by peer review. One has to wonder why. Could it be that if that were to happen that a significant portion of inspectors in this country would be unable to successfully complete the requirement? If so, that's just sad. After all, anyone that's been doing inspections correctly to any published standard of practice for just a few months should be able to complete such a requirement. Could it be that such a process would prove to be an equalizer and would reveal that the claims made by each of the organizations are pretty hollow and that none of them really has any right to brag and that's why they don't support such a process? Kudos to the Canadians for having the b***s to see what needed to be done and than working together to do something about it instead of having 25 - 30 different systems like we have down here. I think it's ironic that here we are, the country where the whole modern concept of home inspections began, and our English speaking brethren in the UK, Australia and Canada have all outdone us in terms of creating systems that provide real consumer protection. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Hi, When you place a vapor barrier on top of the slab you stop evaporation from taking place. Because it's unable to evaporate moisture, the slab will eventually reach equilibrium and won't accept any more moisture. Unless there are other sources of moisture moving into the slab - water from improperly oriented downspouts or sub-surface water that gets into that so-called "sandwich" - the amount left in the slab is negligible. I'd say it really doesn't matter at that point. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Hi, I agree, there should be a 4-wire cable unless the feeder is through metal conduit which is, itself, being used as the grounding conductor. Brian, I could be wrong, because it's not green, but I think the machine screw on the right side at the top is bonding that ground bus to the enclosure which would fit with a 3-wire fed to the panel through metal conduit being used as the grounding conductor. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Not so, You can have a meter on the outside of a home with the panel and main disconnect in the garage and a service grounding conductor clamped to a water pipe near the main shutoff completely on the other side of the home in a crawlspace, or a driven ground rod at the end of the service grounding conductor 40ft. from the panel on the outside of a structure, yet the panel, because it is where the main disconnect resides, is the last place where the system is bonded. The rule is that the neutral (grounded conductor) can't be re-grounded after the service (main disconnect) and that rule has been in place, according to Hansen, since the 1923 edition of the electrical code. Also according to Hansen, exceptions had been made for dryers and ranges that used the neutrals as a grounding means, and for detached buildings, but those loopholes were closed in the 1996 and 1999 editions of the code. This can be found in the 2002 edition of the code at 250.24(A)(5), 250.142(B), and 408.20. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Hi, If it is a condo, it's a sub-panel. I find these improperly bonded all the time. Lots of the time, there are grounded conductors and equipment grounding conductors sharing the same bars. Sometimes, the screw was left in on the neutral bus. When you find these, you should walk around the building and try and locate the meter array so you can check to ensure that the breaker or fuses at the primary disconnect are compatible with those feeders. I've found meter arrays in hallway closets, in parking garages, basement utility rooms and outside on the ends of buildings. Most of the time they aren't even marked to indicate which meter goes to which apartment and sometimes I find that the feeders have been waaay overfused. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Hello! Whether one celebrates Christmas or not, one has to admit that there is something truly magical about this time of the year. As another year winds down and TIJ nears its 4th birthday, myself and TIJ's sponsors want to wish each and every one of you peace, happiness and a prosperous new year and thank you for being part of the TIJ family. Merry Christmas !!!id="size5"> Mike O'Handley, Editor Mike Brown & Rose Balden, DevWave Inc.

Ditto what Jim and Les said about the pinch test. I'd be surprised if it were UFFI, only because it looks far too clean to have been there for 32 years. Not sure I agree that icynene is "hard". You can squeeze it and it will rebound a little bit but not completely. If it's closed-cell foam it will really be hard and rigid. I don't worry about UFFI. It completely off-gases in several weeks. After more than a quarter of a century it isn't an issue. Go to the Carson-Dunlop site and download their research paper on UFFI. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Hi, Is it actually roofing felt under those tile or is it APP, SBS or EPDM single-ply roofing membrane? ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Oooookay, Now that was weird. I must have experienced some kind of mental block 'cuz I scanned that list 3 or 4 times looking for Seattle. Guess I'm ready for the looney bin. [:-banghea Well, I can't say I'm turning work away, but I have been busier than I've been this time of the year over the past few years. Of course, I've been attributing that to the fact that my referral base is finally nearing the numbers it was at before my fall in 2000 and the subsequent sale of my previous company in January 2001. A lot of my previous clients, who contacted the franchiser looking for me when they were ready to purchase again, thought I'd moved away because they were told I was no longer in the business and had moved away. It's taken a while to get back again. An article in the Seattle paper about a week to 10 days ago talked about how sales in November had been down from November of 2004 but that the price of homes in the region was still up - over 7% I think. Not being very good with numbers, I've been trying to figure out how this will affect home inspectors locally, because we're trying to plan an extensive H.I. course for the community college where I teach. Money is pretty tight for new programs - they've already cut some that have been around for decades - and it won't fly unless it looks like the market will support it. OT - OF!!! M.