Renron

If you are like most of us and use Internet Exploder,[:-timebm] with a broadband connection (like a cable modem or DSL modem)(not too many ISDNs anymore)the only time you are connected to the internet is when you click on the little blue "e" in the toolbar area. It seem like you are always connected because it's so fast. IP addresses are like your street and house # for your computer, a way of locating where you are on the internet.(not physical) There are 2 types of IP addresses, Static and Dynamic. If yours is static then your IP address doesn't change, like a WWW.Whatever address. If you have a dynamic IP address then its like your house changing street names and numbers each time a new address is leased.(it's a timed thing, usually many days) DSL and cable both work the same way. Don't tell anyone, but,....... Cable modems are about 10 times faster than DSL. SSHHHHHH. If you have multiple computers on a home network with a router, more likely than not, it also is on a dynamic IP, subleased from your home router.(this is where that double layer of protection comes in)If you also have a software firewall like, Black Ice, Norton or Zone Labs then 99.9% of hackers won't even know your on the internet even when you are! However, you may have MANY other issues stemming from their use. (I don't use em) By the way 99.9% of hackers don't care about you they have bigger fish to fry. Not much glory in Joe average being hacked. I think you get the idea (Brian), Don't walk away from your computer and leave it logged on to the internet all day, then the odds are in your favor that nothing will ever happen to you. Turn it off if it makes you feel better, but if your not logged on and you use antivirus and anti Trojan software with current updates then its like unpluging your phone.... it won't even ring if someone calls. Ron

Most 2 stories around here (Sacramento) do not have an expansion joint. I mostly see window corner cracks in the stucco. Not many at the rim joist. Just buldges. Ron

Captn' Your looking at it all wrong! "I called for an engineer because of the house separating from two additions." You should have reported it as a main house with 2 out buildings and charged and extra $100 each! Realtors! go figuaa! Ron

Douglas, Thanks for weighing in on this topic. I'm just the messenger boy on this one, I'll leave the rest to others Waaay smarter than I. I will pass your comments on by way of Email to Dave K. . I would give you his Email but he has asked me not to publish it for fear of an Email Deluge. Thanks, Ron

Why outside? If it made a difference then the fan would be automatic, and no need for the switch right? Ron

Group, I have been sending Emails back and forth with the West Coast Rep. about the questionable mA readings of the new Sure-test analyzer when tripping the GFCIs. Here is his answer, with his permisson, of course: "Our tester is listed to UL-943 for GFCI Testers and UL-1436 for Outlet Testers which clearly define operational requirements for safety verification. UL-943 states the tester must apply a 6-9mA leakage current between hot and ground to simulate an imbalance between hot and neutral. The tester does this using a 17.1 kilohm fixed resistor. The tester then uses the line voltage which has a specification of 120VAC +/- 10% which translates to 108VAC to 132VAC. Using Ohm's Law (E=I X R) or (I=R/E), at the minimum 108VAC/17.1 kilohms = 6mA, at the nominal 120VAC/17.1 kilohms = 7.5mA, and at the maximum 132VAC/17.1 kilohms = 9mA. Note. To make this equation work exactly, the numbers are 120000 mV (millivolts) / 17100 ohms = 0.0075 amps. All parts of the equation must have the same resolution. So, as you can see, the typical line voltage is 120VAC, and the tester applies 7.5mA. But, as the line voltage varies, Ohm's law will vary the actual trip current as the resistance creating the leakage current from hot to ground is a fixed value. Rgds Dave Kadonoff Field Sales Engineer Test & Measurement Division IDEAL Industries" I hope this answers all our questions. Douglas? What say you. Ron

Konrad, You heard right. I got the same information from the head honcho at OES in my area. Yet another reason to drain 5 gallons out twice a year. Ron

Looks like the photo thing that Brian G. has is contagious. Ron

Chris, this was stolen straight from Norm on the swimming pool forum: "NEC 680.26(B)(5) refers to all metal within 5 feet of the waterline. A metal gutter downspout would be included and, therefore, must be bonded. NORM SAGE" Just passin' it from one place to 'nother Ron

Dennis, Mold will not grow on fiberglass, however, it will grow on the paper backing,a dirt layer anywhere (like glass or tile) or the wood framing. There must be water ERH (equalibrium relative humidity) of ~61% or higher for viable spores to germinate. Your photo doesn't look like its wet, could it be dried owl droppings? Ron

Dan, You are correct in that the software should fit your personality and level of Sphincter suction. However, when someone is just starting out and has to watch every penny they spend on tools and schools, it becomes vital they get the report writing software right the first time. At $600 on up, Ya don't want to do it twice. Downloading partialy working demos helps narrow it down to a few, but information from the "horses mouth" is hard to beat. I agonized two weeks over which one to buy, I asked questions of other HIs and found IE to suit me the best. Perhaps I just wanted confirmation. Ron Thanks for the reply Mike

Anyone else notice that if the dryer vent/damper blows across that area it could pull the burt gas fumes away from the draft hood by way of venturi/drafting action and into the living space? Ron

Dennis, After shooting over 100,000 round head nails, I can tell you this did not happen from the nail gun. Chris' explaination is the "best guess" and I'd put money on it. Never did it personally, but have seen others do stuff like that all the time. Ron

I have been using IE for ~1 month, still learning the program. My first report took me 5 hours to finish with only the cover photo. Now, if I stay focused I can complete a 34 pager(yeah, that's a lot)(no SOPs)with 15 color photos in about 3 hours including the multi ring binding for finished presentation. I have mixed feelings about the software.... perhaps its the learning curve but it's not all that quick and easy. (could be me) I find that I have to read the entire report word for word and cannot skip ANY part of the dropdown menus or it will report a slab floor as a 2x10 joist w/crawlspace. I purchased this program because it had a nice layout when finished and included a Summary of Defects section. Very easy for realtorzoids to understand and copy for the sellers. I always tell the client to read the entire report and not just the Summary section. (Realtorzoids repair list)I do believe that with experience I will be able to complete a photo report with bindings in under 1 1/2 hours. Sometime ago Mike stated he was useing IE, perhaps he could share his experience too? I'm curious about how long it takes an expert to complete a photo report. From Tom's post: As to the boiler plate, it seems as if it were written by some wacked out , left coasted, oversized, vet. Any comments MIKE? Ron

Mike....I'm Baaaack. Ok here we go again, I'll see if I can miss my mouth with my foot this time. On the subject of TPR drain pipe types, I found this: UPC 608.5 "Relief valves located inside a building shall be provided with a drain, not smaller than the relief valve outlet, of galvanized steel, hard drawn copper piping and fittings, CPVC, or listed relief valve drain tube with fittings which will not reduce the internal bore of the pipe or tubing (straight lengths as opposed to coils) and shall extend from the valve to the outside of the building with the end of the pipe not more than.............." Now, if I were to see a Flex-type TPR drain pipe that was listed as such then I would accept it, otherwise it's not. The coils (ridges) of copper flex drain line act as baffles and would create turbulance, thereby reducing the flow rate and effectivley reducing the internal bore. OR is that Eternal Bore? This what happens when I try to become better educated on routinely viewed items. NEXT! Ron (part PitBull)

I also bought the Prometer Surveymaster SM and use it on every job. I have found that in my area most sliding glass doors leak (a lot or a little) and the nearest tackstrip has rusty nails. On sheetrock wrapped windows if I find evidence of moisture I'll verify it with the MM and take a photo of the reading. I don't always include the photo in my report but I keep it on disk for future use. I hope I never need them.[] Paid $410 and use it all the time. Ron

I found this while "crusin" the web. Sound interesting, any thoughts? Came out of a Fresno CA area Plumbers Assoc. minuites. The water heating system consists of a 6" diameter schedule 80 CPVC pipe 20' long that is installed in the attic at an angle with insulation on one end. The lower end is insulated for hot water storage. Water is heated in the 6" pipe during the day and feeds the water heater through a series of valves. The water heater does not fire up during the summer. The 6" pipe and the water heater would have to be drained before the water heater would fire up. The combined capacity of the 6" pipe and the water heater is approximately 60 gallons. The system does work during the winter but not as well. The home owner may valve-out the 6" pipe storage system during the winter. This system has an engineered pipe support system stamped by a licensed engineer. Would 3, 3" pipe work better? Ron

I somehow get the feeling I'm going to regret my last post. Ron

Mike, Wow, your fingers must be tired after that long post you wrote! My response to Donald was regarding the TPR line, not the input or output sides of the water heater! I recommend Stainless Steel Braided lines for the water heaters along with shut offs on both sides to my clients. Not to mention Braided SS lines on Washing machines. I never said anything about CA not allowing Flex on IN or OUT sides. I'm lookin' for where it says flexi line is not allowed on TPRs, I'll Be BACK. Ron

RobC, That's exactly how I see it,------ a safety hazard. Terence, R&R ok Thanks All! Ron

Donald, Thank you for IRC #, Once again I learn something on this forum everyday. What a great group! Terry, No, flex is not allowed here, it has to be rigid pipe unthreaded on the end,(I think-guess because it will not kink as easily if damaged)only a guess Please note my comment on my 1st post, "Cool TPR line. :)" Rstanley, It kinda looks like a twisty straw my kids used for fun. Out here in earthquake country, CA, we are also required to have 2 seismic straps to prevent tip-overs. Thanks Ron

Thanks for the input guys. I have to deliver the report by Friday noon. Thanks Ron

Paul Thank you for the quick response. Ron

Greenboard if it is in the bathroom or where moisture may be present. White sheetrock works too. Greenboard won't soak up as much moisture from the thinset or mastic. Cement "type" backerboard is always best. Ron

Does this look acceptable to anyone? I don't think it is correct, but would like the more experienced opinions of my peers. Thank you Ron Download Attachment: 13063 Lincon wy 057.jpg 111.08 KB