CheckItOut

Just checking to see if there is some funky fine print clause somewhere the just pertains to fuse panels that might allow this. House built in the 20's and you can see a 10 AWG wire attached to the lugs at the top. Wires then exit the box and go into a box with one breaker - no label and I could not open that little box and have no idea the rating of the breaker - box was painted closed and breaker handle painted in place - nice. Click to Enlarge 57.66 KB

True. My 2004 house did not have a condensate drain line in the attic plumbed directly outdoors. Primary line dumped into overflow pan which drained through a pipe above a second floor window. This then dumped water on top of the main electrical panel. No idea why original owner left it like this - could hear water dripping all night long in the master bedroom as it hit the panel.

Just curious if anyone knows when a condensate overflow pan was required with an air handler in attic or interior closet. Inspected a 1994 house with no pan and I could not tell where one had been nor did I see evidence of a second drain line.

Is this what I think it is? Thanks... Click to Enlarge 77.3 KB

Forget the 5-amp thing. It's meaningless. Just go by the data plate. With an air conditioning compressor -- as with lots of large motor loads -- the compressor motor itself has overload protection built in. That'll protect the wire from overloads. The required breaker is only there to protect against short circuits & ground faults. Why then, you may ask, does the size of the breaker matter? If it's only there to protect against faults, wouldn't any larger breaker size do? And if you were to ask those questions, they'd be good ones. The answer is that smaller breakers have steeper trip curves, even for faults, so they provide slightly (ever so slightly) better protection. - Jim Katen, Oregon Thank you Jim!

Jim, Can you explain that? What would happen if the data plate listed a max fuse rating of 25 AMPS and they had a 40 AMP breaker (see this all of the time on older houses that have had systems replaced). I would think this could cause a problem but maybe I am missing something. I always give them 5 AMPS for compressor load (start up) draw and that is commonly done around here.

Thanks guys. The plate calls for a minimum of a 25.6 amp circuit. I read the insulation rating, took a pic but can't recall the rating and it did not show in the pic.

I have not found a maximum ampacity for multi-stranded wire but know that it can carry more than single strand. This HVAC unit had a 40 amp breaker and a 12 gauge multi-strand copper wire. Wire from unit to breaker panel was only a few feet. I think this may be ok but would like to find a chart for ampacity of multi-strand. Anyone?

Most newer ones go from off to ignite then down to low. Lady said her cat turns them on.

This is a Kenmore from 2002 and the knobs for the burners go from off to low, med, high then ignite. Knobs are on front above oven door. So, kid turns knob to low, med or high and not all the way to ignite and gas enters home. I would have figured that by 2002 they would be safer than this. I am writing it up as a safety issue but thought I'd see if anyone knows this range.

Thanks. It is old wire.

Anyone know what year they required sub panels to have four wires (hots, ground & neutral) and neutrals and grounds to be on separate bars? Inspected a 1956 house that had a new sub panel (not sure of the year but in the last 15 years for sure). I would think that the new sub panel would be required to have the separate ground and neutral wires from the main panel right? Can't imagine how they would get around the requirement here (other issues in the box as well). Two separate questions. Thanks. Click to Enlarge 52.6 KB

Curious what you think about an outdoor wire on top of decorative framing members on a deck. House built in '79 and deck maybe 15 years ago. Basically, the framing is a ceiling over the deck with no roof and a ceiling fan is attached. The wire runs on top of the framing for a short distance before being attached to the framing securely. My thought is that a tree limb (tons around) could fall and damage the insulation. I think it should be run in conduit and that is common where it is exposed above ground (this is just way above).

I pointed the camera up and hit the button. I could not see the view finder so I got lucky.

I have seen this a few times and call it out for a fireplace repair person to correct. This gap is about 1/2" and I can see soot in the gap. Ever see this? Click to Enlarge 90.02 KB

I see this every now and then. On one new construction house some time ago, the shingle mfg gave the buyer a letter stating that this was a manufacturing defect and it would not affect the life of the shingles. Confident, they doubled the warranty. These blisters never appear on the entire roof - maybe just one side (maybe sun exposure plays a roll). Just curious if anyone has a definitive cause and knowledge of how, if at all, this might affect shingle life. Click to Enlarge 98.71 KB

I've seen this quite a few times recently on new houses. They have two circuits (ie, two different strands of Romex) with the hots tied together at a wire nut with another wire which then goes to the breaker. This could still lead to overloading. I've seen this on older houses where the nut is melted and black. This is not some newly allowed technique under certain conditions is it? Click to Enlarge 54.24 KB

Thanks guys. Owner asked why I turned her light off and how I did so from outside.

This house was built in '08 and when I tested the outdoor recepts for GFI function, the power cut off as proper but the overhead kitchen light also cut off. The GFI reset is a recept in the interior hallway. My cliff notes electrical book does not seem to address permanent interior lighting fixtures on GFI circuits. Thoughts?

This one was not bad. The entry hole was at least 10" tall and some of the crawl was up to 30" high. Some only 16" though. That is why I stay thin.

Found this today.... I am still not sure how it ever worked unless some parts are missing. It has an internal pipe that ends about 4" on the other side of the rust hole. Then several inches over, is the flue pipe ducted to the outdoors. There is nothing on the bottom below these pipes and there is a large open chamber, if you will, with no seals surrounding this area (top and sides). It is almost like an "S" pipe is missing but I don't know. Just thought I'd share this as an FYI. Home owner has been instructed not to use it. Click to Enlarge 48.35 KB

Thanks. The "loop" is up high as it passes through the cabinet. They missed the clamp on the dw drain hose though.

Disposal drain.... I think this will still function and I can't find anything that states otherwise (maybe you can). This is a remodeled home and there were some other plumbing issues like the accordion drain pipes under sinks. Click to Enlarge 48.47 KB

Just sweep it out of the way. Mound it up in the areas where you're not going to put the floor. Yes, but I am trying to take the excess over to another part of the attic that is not easy to get into - no floor and very low. Thought I might be able to blow it that way somehow. I always make things complicated so maybe I'll just pile up next to the floored areas and leave it be. - Jim Katen, Oregon

Anyone know of a good way to move a lot of blown in fiberglass insulation? I recently moved and have pull down attic access but no flooring. What I thought about doing is removing the blown in where I want to floor, add R-38 under the floored area and moving the blown in elsewhere. The elsewheres are not easily accessible though. Thought about rigging my shop vac to suck it up and blow it out the tube. Anyone try this or something else?